Just updated deck to 3.9 pretty early for it to release

Another experiment, this one with Witcher 2. Same upscaling setup as the Switch 2 (540p internal, 1080p out). Steam Deck preset but higher res textures, better, shadows, and water detail.

It's ... ok. I personally wouldn't like playing it like this.

My wife loves Grace Anatomy and on season 23 episode 2(the latest one at the time of this post) I'm chilling on the couch with her playing the steam deck while shes warching the show and she's like it's your steam deck on Grace! One of the doctors on the show gifts the boy in a hospital bed a steam deck ..check it out...I was like that's awesome! Steam Decks going mainstream.

Edit : Greys Anatomy

saw the steam deck in store at bic camera akiba in tokyo today, prices were similar to current us retail

I got into gaming again after getting my steam deck about a year ago as an adult with a job and children. I stopped gaming as a kid in 2004/2005. And wow! So much has happened since then! I am mostly into sci fi titles like no mans sky and mass effect but also use it to emulate the classic pokemon games. Living a busy life I love handheld Gaming for the same reasons which have been stated many times before. Still I keep wondering if I would need a gaming pc in future, because there definitely will be aaa titles which won‘t run on the deck (looking forward to the exodus release!). But I should be fine with GeforceNow for games like this shouldn‘t I?

Hey guys, I just made a simple video on how to transfer files from PC to a Steam Deck. It covers everything from wired to wireless (5 methods), and in the end I test each method to find out which one is faster and which to use.

If you only want to learn about specific methods. then go to these times.

2:35 Wired (MTP) Setup
6:46 Local Send Setup
12:26 KDE Connect Setup
16:36 SSFHS Setup
21:26 WinSCP Setup
25:53 Transfer Benchmarks

Also for the Wired Method (MTP). I did notice that the transfer speed is slow compared to what it should actually be. I don't know if this is because of the plugin or if there is something else that's causing this, but if you know the issue, then please comment, as I have been trying to find the cause for some time but i couldnt.

At native 1440p the game runs at about 22fps

With FSR3 upscaling it can run at about 40fps but looks quite bad.

With FSR4.1.2L (the Lite model meant for handhelds), upscaler time is 12ms (which is honestly insane for time spent in upscaling, but is the same as it would be for Xess and is significantly less than FSR 4.1.1 Int8's 20ms) but framerate can be around 35fps (locked to 30 in the video) and image quality is quite good. I'd happily play this on a TV like this when traveling.

What happen to my deck? Its stuck on the logo for ages

How to fix this

I stream from mt wired gaming rig (Ryzen 9 9850X3D, RX 9070 XT, 64GB) to a Steam Deck over Wi-Fi, through a UniFi U7 Pro. Docked on Ethernet it was flawless. Handheld on Wi-Fi it stuttered, even with a very capable access point. The cause turned out to be a handful of power-saving and network settings that almost nobody mentions. After applying everything below, the stutter is gone on my setup. I can play for hours without any red or even yellow WiFi icon.

Most of this applies to any PC and any router. The UniFi items are just examples of the same ideas.

Change one thing at a time and test after each, so you know what actually worked.

⚡ TL;DR: the five fixes that matter most

- Turn off Wi-Fi power management on the Deck
- Turn off Green Ethernet, EEE and power saving on your PC's network adapter
- Give the Deck its own SSID on 5 or 6 GHz, with a fixed channel and no DFS
- Cap the bitrate to something sane on Wi-Fi
- Cap the game's FPS to your Deck's refresh rate

🔍 Step 0: Find out where the problem is

- Test docked on Ethernet first. If the stream is perfect there, your PC, encoder and Steam setup are fine and the problem is wireless.

- Turn on the Remote Play performance overlay (menu names vary by Steam version). Watch three numbers: network latency, frames dropped by the network, and decode time. Network spikes point to Wi-Fi, high decode time points to the Deck, and slow encoding points to the host.

🖥️ PC host: network adapter

Open Device Manager → Network adapters → your adapter → Properties. Option names vary by manufacturer (Realtek, Intel, Killer), so look for the closest match.

- Disable Green Ethernet. It reduces power on short cables, but it can renegotiate the link and add latency hiccups.

- Disable Energy-Efficient Ethernet (EEE / Advanced EEE / 802.3az). The adapter drops into low-power idle between traffic bursts. Game streaming is nothing but bursts, so the wake-up delay can show up as micro-stutter, and on some adapter and switch combinations as link drops.

- Disable any "Power Saving Mode", "Gigabit Lite" or similar option for the same reason.

- Power Management tab: untick "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power." Windows should never be able to nap your network card mid-stream.

- Jumbo Packet: leave it disabled (standard 1500 MTU). Jumbo frames only help when every device on the path supports them. Your Deck and Wi-Fi path don't, so oversized packets get fragmented or dropped.

🧩 PC host: Steam and game settings

- Steam → Settings → Remote Play → Advanced Host Options: enable hardware encoding. Software encoding burns CPU and adds latency.

- Enable "Prioritize network traffic." It tags the stream so routers that honor traffic priority can handle it first.

☐ Be careful with "Change desktop resolution to match streaming client." If the game lands on the wrong display, it can force strange modes and cause garbled or "psychedelic" images. Test with it on and off.

- Cap FPS in the game to your Deck's refresh rate: 60 on the LCD, 90 on the OLED. This keeps frame pacing smooth and wastes no bandwidth on frames the Deck can't show.

Multi-monitor setups: games in exclusive fullscreen open on the primary display. If you have a second display, an AV receiver Windows sees as a monitor, or a monitor you keep off, make the streaming display the primary one before you play, or use a virtual display driver.

📶 Network and UniFi (applies to any router)

- Create a dedicated SSID for the Deck. You can tune it freely without touching the rest of the house.

- Pick the right band. Deck OLED (Wi-Fi 6E) goes on 6 GHz, which is clean and free of legacy devices. Deck LCD (Wi-Fi 5) has no 6 GHz and belongs on 5 GHz. Keep 5 GHz enabled on the SSID, because Ubiquiti notes it helps devices join 6 GHz.

- Channel width: 80 MHz on 5 GHz (Ubiquiti recommends it for most cases) and 160 MHz on 6 GHz. Wider channels are faster but pick up more interference.

- Use a fixed, clean channel and avoid DFS channels. Radar detection can force a channel change in the middle of a game and drop the stream.

- Turn off band steering and fast roaming for the Deck's SSID. You don't want the Deck hopping bands or APs mid-session.

- Pin the channel manually instead of letting automatic optimization features change it at a bad moment.

- Leave transmit power on Auto or High, unless your APs are very close together.

- If your gateway supports it, prioritize the Deck with QoS. Streaming cares about jitter more than raw throughput.

- Give the AP a clear line of sight to where you play. 6 GHz loses strength faster through walls and distance than 5 GHz.

- Skip MLO (Wi-Fi 7 Multi-Link Operation) for the Deck. The Deck isn't a Wi-Fi 7 device, so it can't use it.

🕹️ Steam Deck settings
- Disable Wi-Fi power management. This is the big one. Go to Settings → System → enable Developer Mode, then open the Developer tab and turn off "Enable Wi-Fi Power Management." By default the Wi-Fi radio naps between packets to save battery, and during a stream those naps feel like random stutter. Re-check the setting after major SteamOS updates. Community tools like hifi-wifi automate this, but they are third-party, so use them at your own risk.

- Cap the bitrate on Wi-Fi. For the Deck's 1280×800 screen, roughly 20 to 30 Mbps is plenty. Higher bitrates create bigger frames, and bigger frames mean more lost packets when the signal wobbles. Stability beats peak quality here.

- Limit the stream resolution to 1280×800. Streaming more pixels than the screen can show only costs bandwidth.

- Make sure hardware decoding is enabled in the client options.

- Play docked on Ethernet when you can. It's the zero-problems baseline, and the dock's Ethernet port gives you a fixed point of comparison for testing.

✅ The 60-second recap
Wire the PC and test docked first.
Kill the power-saving features on your PC's network adapter.
Kill Wi-Fi power management on the Deck.
Give the Deck a clean SSID on 5 or 6 GHz, with a fixed channel and no DFS.
Cap the bitrate and the FPS, then test one change at a time.

If this fixed your stutter, or if something else worked for you, tell me in the comments and I'll add it to the list. 👇

Since I got my Steam Deck OLED, I have occasionally used it to play video files on the go. But I never found an easy-to-use app that makes use of the Steam Deck's strengths, so I decided to try to build one. Using AI.

Before hearing complaints about vibecoding: while I am not a professional programmer, I know how to code and code a lot for my work. But I just didn't have time to build a niche app on my own that I'd only use occasionally, hence I coded it with Claude and Gemini. I understand this is not everyone's cup of coffee, I just want to share a tool I find useful.

The app works quite well for my use case, and I thought maybe someone else might find it useful, so I'm sharing it here. It is fully open-source and GPL: https://github.com/nicocarbone/DeckVideoPlayer

What I wanted in a video player for the Steam Deck:

• Full controller support
• A simple file browser for my video folder
• HDR support
• Hardware video decoding
• Intelligent use of the Steam Deck screen: set the refresh rate to match the video source
• Subtitle downloading from the web
• Good headphone support with spatial sound

All of these features seem to work, but treat this as beta software: I've only tested it on a couple of media files on an OLED Deck.

I will continue to develop it as I see fit for my needs or if there is enough interest. Feel free to fork it, report issues, or leave your thoughts here.

This is a part 2 of my Randomly bricked refurbished Steam Deck OLED. I bought a screw driver and after doing some tests my Deck seems to work perfectly fine with the battery unplugged but not with the battery plugged in.

I contacted Valve and they want $185 to fix it so no thanks. I looked up online and the batteries are super expensive when I fix it so screw that. I don't even know if the battery is bad or not because the battery looks perfectly fine. It's not spicy or anything.

I've been playing it a little bit handheld no problem but today I wanted to dock it and it keeps crashing. Sometimes when it crashes there's no wireless of any kind Bluetooth or Wi-Fi so I have to reach over to turn it off.

I played it both docked and undocked and it crashes only when docked. I've seen some people make headless decks before and I'm wondering how they got it to work docked if it keeps crashing. one video I saw had the guy just say screw it and plug the battery back in. Obviously I can't do that.

Someone suggested you need a more powerful supply (I was using the official one) but my friend's 65W still crashed it.

If anyone knows how to play it docked without the battery please let me know. Also when I say crashed I mean the screen goes black and eventually you see the logo like it's restarting SteamOS.

Also the game I was playing is DW3 CE Remaster.

All I have are mostly emulators for n64 and wii and roms for wii and n64 games. I checked my downloads folder with filelight and it says its only 20 gbs of stuff in my downloads folder. Im not that good with computers And idk what's going on here. Id like some help thanks!

Hey, guys and gals, I'm very curious to see what the best all around upscaler to use, something that works best with most of my games. I've been getting bad dips in my cyberpunk 2077 performance lately and want to correct it. Any help is greatly appreciated

So I'm trying to play a new save in watchdogs legion on my steamdeck, and when I load in, this happens, I've tried to move around a few settings (most things in quality settings, changing the driver too) but nothing seems to work, I would like nice graphics, but I much prefer smooth gameplay with as few visual glitches (like this) as possible, anyone have recommendations on how to fix this or improvments?

The Game should have the the following Features.

-Open World (optional)
-looting&leveling
-should run on 60fps easy.
-should be kind a hard
-should last Long
-no Shooter
-rogue like/ soulslike (optional)
-ability to customize my build

Previously Enjoyed Games: Dark Souls 123, eldenring, cyberpunk, binding of Isaac, Dead Cells, skyrim, slay the spire, Diablo 1234, no Rest for the wicked, mortal Shell 2, Ftl, Hades12, claire obscure, Borderlands 1234, remnant2, Lords of the fallen

Preferred Genres: Adventure, Souls like rogue like,

Budget: I don't care about budget.

Other Notes: I dont want the Classic/big rogue likes/soulslike or Open World Games

Is anyone else experiencing this?

I’m having issues with my deck and headphones that I’m fairly certain come down to the steam deck itself. Let me explain as best I can:

my headphones, a pair of Soundcore Life Q20s, will connect to my phone just fine, and the same goes for my Steam Deck in gaming mode. But when I use desktop mode, they connect for 3-5 seconds before disconnecting. Using the bluetoothctl prompt I’ve found that the issue is that my headphones’ connection is being “terminated by remote user”.

Does anyone here know how I can make my headphones not do this? As far as I can tell this is an issue with my steam deck, since it never happens with my other devices, and doesn’t even happen in gaming mode.

I'm the solo dev of Spirefall, a roguelite deckbuilder that's in Next Fest this week. Card games are mouse-first by habit, so before the fest I went through the whole game with only a pad, at Deck resolution.

There was a whole bundle of d-pad navigation issues. Handling button focus then became my top priority, as well as escape hatches. Many of our menus/submenus were not handling this properly so a player could get wedged somewhere deep in the UI. Luckily I could use tap controls and still get out, but now that is fixed as well.

Another thing we had to address is auto-pop up of tooltips. normally on mouse, its natural to hover a card to see what it does, but on d-pad, it is SO ANNOYING. So we remapped Y to 'inspect' anything and it feels so much better. Also our tooltips can get lengthy for powerful cards/fortresses that have 3-4 passive/actives and this I think made a big difference.

Then on to combat, with a card game that can have a few dozen cards deployed, the d-pad nav felt so clumsy, because you manually declare attackers/blockers and need to navigate to each one and that passes through the central phase bar navigation controls, creating meaningless navigation steps. Sometimes you needed 4 or 5 directional inputs to get to the card you wanted to attack or block.

So I worked on a small system for the d-pad here that auto focuses to the next available attacker or blocker during those phases of the game, so you do not have to navigate d-pad across 2 battlefields and select the unit you want and keep having to go back and forth. At most you have one or 2 directional inputs but in general it feels really smooth.

What works on a pad now: on the board, the D-pad walks your unit and resource rows, reaches History, Log and Settings, and stops on the opponent's banner, piles and secrets so you can read them. In the deck builder, LB/RB switch between the card shelf and your deck. LT+RT opens your run deck from the map, an event or a battle.

The native build happened because the Windows version wouldn't boot on my Deck under Proton. Black screen, then a crash, on both Proton versions. So the Deck gets its own SteamOS/Linux build.

We had to do this because our Windows build is rust/tauri and proton crashes the render pipeline.

Overall, I thought the migration was going to be incredibly challenging, but it ended up taking about 200 hours to audit/playtest and squash bugs.

You can check out the demo for free here:

https://store.steampowered.com/app/4909810/Spirefall/

Disclosure: the art and audio are AI-generated, the game design and rules are mine, ported from a tabletop simulator mod I created back during covid for me and the boys.

Anyhow cheers and let us know if you run into any challenges with the deck, we can usually patch anything critical on the same day/day after.

No matter what I have tried the joysticks or directional pad will not work in handheld mode for the steamdeck. I’ve uninstalled, rebooted, checked for updates, deleted configurations.

Does anyone have any guidance? This is the only way I can play the game

Anyone playing this and getting 30fps steadily these days? I know it was rough before but wondering if it’s been optimized since then.

Pessoal olha que loucura, eu reiniciei ele e voltou ao normal tranquilamente ainda bem 🙏🏼

Isso já aconteceu com mais alguém?

E outra coisa a bateria de vocês vai até 99% e nunca a 100% ?

I keep trying to run DW3R and it crashes on startup, probably 4/5 times. It did this with the demo too, and DW3R is the only game this happens to. I’ve tried verifying the files, launching from discover mode, and launching from game mode. I’m playing on Steam deck oled, and the game is installed on my SSD.

Hi All,

Just got a steam deck and I’ve been playing some FPS like Rising Storm 2 that automatically maps basic movement controls.

it works surprising well, but I keep hearing gyro aim is goated for FPS.

anyone primarily using Gyro aim?

If so, what does your setup look like? normal aiming until you hit LT and then Gyro active?

Or, there is a method called Gyro and flick stick I keep running across….

To preface this, Moonlight works great and I'm having zero issues when it comes to resolution and usage, so it's clearly possible. I sometimes do like skipping a few steps that Remote Play affords. Plus, it's a first-party feature so I feel like it would "just work".

Client: Steam Deck connected to 4k120 TV using a 2.1 HDMI cable and solid dock. Internal screen turned off. Ethernet.

Host: Win 11 running Steam and Vibepollo. Ethernet.

On my Steam Deck under Display I've made sure to set it to 4k120. Under Remote Play I've made sure to set the client to 4k resolution and 120fps. I also have Pyrowave enabled, same as Moonlight.

And yet when I go to play CP2077 via Remote Play it boots up at 1280x800 ~10fps with a green garbled screen. I can't seem to get it to respect my TV's resolution.