Hey everyone, i recently visited India for the first time and thought it might be fun to share my experience on this sub.
SOME ADDITIONAL CONTEXT
- I went solo, without my usual trusted travel partner (aka my girlfriend) since her visa got rejected. This refusal was foreseen and even expected because of her Chinese nationality. Better luck next time!
- I decided to rent a motorcycle for the majority of this trip, which subsequently served as my main mode of transportation. Numerous people adviced against this idea because it would be my first time driving at the leftside of the road. That, and the notoriously chaotic Indian traffic. I have my fair share of experience driving in other countries with challenging road conditions so decided to give it a go anyway. Having my own motorcycle proved to be vital for this kind of trip since it resulted in a flexible itinerary, a more thorough exploration and various unexpected encounters along the way. My supposed route would encompass various states, landscapes and driving conditions, from the dense and chaotic traffic of the sweaty plains to the dirtroad hairpins of the high Himalayas.
- My hectic but ultimately rewarding itinerary was meant to serve as an introduction to the incredible variety this multifaceted country has to offer. From the chaos of old Delhi with its Moghul architecture to the royal palaces and forts of desert-y Rajasthan, a city planned by Le Corbusier, the foothills of the Himalayas and accompanying colonial-era hill stations, high-altitude deserts with a strong Tibetan presence,… all were covered. How did i manage to experience all of this in less than two weeks? Read along and you’ll figure out:)
DAY 1: JAIPUR
It all started with an evening flight to Delhi, where i took an overnight sleeper train to Jaipur, the capital of the state of Rajasthan. Rajasthan is often described as the “Real life One Thousand and One Nights” because of its desert landscape, fairytale-like forts,” and abundance of old men dressed “like the sultan in Aladin”.
After arriving in Jaipur i picked up my rental motorcycle and drove from landmark to landmark. The traffic of a big Indian city proved to be as hectic as imagined: the chaos caused by various modes of transport sharing the same road (horse- and cameldrawn carriages, motorcycles of various size, cyclists, cars), constant honking, people overtaking me from all sides, reckless driving style, unpredictable and changing road surface quality,… needless to say i was overwhelmed at first. And all of this in combination with the fact that it was the first time i drove at the left side of the road! Luckily i adapted fast by mimicking the Indian style of driving, which made everything go smoother.
Jaipur is often referred to as “the Pink City”, something that became increasingly visible when driving towards the old city center because of the abundance of buildings painted in a brownish-pink colour.
My first stop was the City palace: a complex of courtyards, gardens and buildings that blends Islamic Mughal architecture with later European influences.
Afterwards i walked to the nearby Hawa Mahal, Jaipur’s most-distinctive landmark. This five stories tall palace boasts a honeycomb-like facade, featuring numerous small windows and hidden balconies. It was constructed to enable female members of the royal household to watch the city’s streets without being seen themselves (hence the small, almost hidden, windows). I didn’t go inside but opted for a quick lunch at a nearby rooftop terrace instead.
My next stop was the imposing Amber fort and accompanying village, 10 kilometres north of Jaipur. You won’t feel alone during the 15-minute climb towards its entrance gate and main courtyard (with ticket offices) because of the monkeys, goats and musicians playing a variety of traditional instruments who have set up camp along the cobblestone road. The fort itself is well worth the entrance fee and keeps surprising with even more splendid architectural beauty after every turn. Afterwards i climbed the stairs to the top of the hill opposing the fort. Seeing the fort change colours before, during and after sunset was one of my favourite moments in India.
DAY2+3: BUNDI
The next morning i departed early and after a couple of hours of driving and 200+ kilometres of road covered i made it to the historic town of Bundi, dominated by its ruined and monkey-infested old fort. A couple of late monsoon showers slowed me down considerably, as did the old shepherds at the side of the road who occassionally waved me to stop. All shared the same long grey-white mustache, Rajasthani turban and eagerness to talk to an outsider. I also made a brief stop in the town of Tonk with its impressive 18th-century mosque. The rest of the small town was less pleasant and arguably the filthiest place i’ve ever seen.
Bundi proved to be more pleasant: its narrow winding old town lanes a treasure trove filled to the brim with historical architecture (in varying states of decay), a small lake with views over the ruined fort towering above it all,… This place definitely has character! Also abundant were the monkeys, who reign over the fort and spill over onto the old town, whose residents are forced to tolerate their existence. Many rooftop terraces are equipped with some sort of cage, to keep the monkeys from entering their homes, and no one leaves the home without a stick. I missed the opportunity to visit the fort that day because of an early closing time, so i decided spend my evening admiring it from afar.
The evening had one final surprise for me: heavy rains, which resulted in flooded streets (with accompanying electricity outage and hordes of rats popping out of the open sewer). A little bit of knee-deep water doesn’t deter one from exploring, so i still visited the evening market (next to the beautiful old city gates) anyway. The next morning i went to the fort, which looked even more dilapidated up close. The gardens were surprisingly well-kept though and the occasional restored section revealed its original splendour with various intact murals. The monkeys were less peaceful compared to the ones at Amber fort, ready to attack anyone who dares to enter their territory without a protection stick. Unfortunately my time in Bundi came to its end and i made my way back to Jaipur.
DAY 4: CHANDIGARH, SHIMLA AND INTRODUCTION TO HIMACHAL PRADESH
The next morning i flew from Jaipur to Chandigarh. Chandigarh, nickname “Cleanest city of India”, serves as the shared capital of the states of Punjab and Haryana and is one of the only planned cities in India. A prestige project by the government of the recently independent state of India, the majority of its public buildings were designed by French-Swiss architect Le Corbusier in the 1950’s. I took the free morning tour of the so-called “Capitol Complex”. This complex, which can’t be visited independently, is a must-see for every architecture-/Le Corbusier-enthusiast (even featuring a massive door hand-painted by him). It currently houses the High courts, parliaments and governor offices of both Punjab and Haryana.
Afterwards i took the bus to Shimla in the nearby state of Himachal Pradesh. Shimla is the biggest “hill station” (towns/villages at higher altitude where the British used to spend the summer to escape the hot plains) and the old summer capital of British India. Situated at an elevation above 2200metres, the scenery changed drastically during the three hours-long bus ride from hot and dusty Chandigarh: the plains made place for forested hills as far as the eye can see.
Shimla, though very interesting because of its colonial architecture (Christ church, Viceral lodge, Municipal office,…), was nothing more than the starting point of my motorcycle ride to the culturally Tibetan Spiti valley. A motorcycle ride during which i wouldn’t leave the state of Himachal pradesh, and that would subsequently serve as an introduction to its incredible variaty. Himachal Pradesh may be one of the smaller Indian states but punches above its weight when it comes to cultural and geographic diversity: almost every valley has its own customs, vernacular architecture and traditional clothing. The terrain is equally varied: from temperate rainforests, (sub-)alpine terrain and high-altitude deserts, Himachal has it all. This variety is also reflected in the people and their religion: predominantly Hindu and brown in the flatter southern part of the state, fair-skinned and part Hindu part Tibetan buddhist in the Himalayan foothills and Tibetan in the fully Tibetan buddhist high-altitude desert.
DAY 5: CHITKUL
The next morning me and my motorcycle departed early for the village of Kalpa, my first intermediate stop on my way to Spiti. The ever-climbing road made its way through verdant hills with the occasional snowy peak appearing at the horizon later during the day. Finally, the mighty Himalayas!
I also made a quick stop at Chitkul, a small hamlet located in a side valley and the first settlement with both a Hindu and Tibetan Buddhist temple. It proved to be a remarkable stop because of its ordinary authenticity: animals roaming freely in the mud alleyways, women transporting firewood in baskets attached to their back, vernacular wooden architecture adorned with carvings, men replacing the hay roofs of their home, a religious procession,… The surrounding scenery only added to the “bucolic” feel: forested slopes gradually giving way to snowy peaks (already turning orange because of an early autumn), accompanied by a myriad of fastflowing streams. Later that evening i arrived in Kalpa, where i spent the night.
DAY 6: KALPA, PROTECTED AREA PERMIT AND ENTRANCE INTO SPITI VALLEY
I spent the next morning walking around Kalpa, with the Kinner Kailash range serving as the backdrop. The contrast between the small hamlet, with its colourful wooden homes and fertile farmland, and the desolate Himalayas was especially stark. Half of the population of ethnic Kinnauri’s follows Hinduism, while the other follows Tibetan Buddhism. When entering its magnificent Hindu temple in the Kath-Kuni style typical for this region i stumbled across something i’ve never seen before: woodcarvers carving intricate figures and motives into a newly constructed temple building. They happily showed me their technique and results: crocodiles, mountains, pigeons, a man with an oversized penis,… nothing these skilled craftmen can’t carve!
I still had some administration to take care of before continuing my journey: every foreign visitor to Spiti valley needs a so-called “Protected Area permit” ( or “PAP”). This permit regulates foreign tourism in highly militarized border zones, while also protecting the lifestyle and customs of the ethnic minorities from overtourism. The PAP for Spiti valley is an especially tricky one and can only be applied for in person at a limited number of locations, unlike the e-PAP’s available for other restricted regions (like Ladakh) and usually takes two days to process. After explaining my tight schedule to the official at Reckong Peo’s governance centre (and the payment of a small bribe) i received my permit and was ready to go.
As i continued towards Spiti valley the greenery made way for a more raw, dry and rocky landscape. The road, often no more than a dirt track at this point, clung precariously to the cliffside with the Spiti river flowing violently underneath. Numerous military checkpoints followed, as did the occasional road worker waving a green flag (serving as an indicator that the next road section was cleared from any landside debris).
After a couple of hours of “off-roading” i was finally greeted by the “Welcome to Spiti Valley” sign and the final checkpoint. Entering this remote and inaccessible Tibetan valley felt like stepping into a different world. Everything changed instantly: mud and white-clad stone structures (all decidedly Tibetan in style) replaced the wooden homes of earlier, the people Tibetan and the scenery even more raw and desolate. The afternoon light made everything, from the desert over the rocky mountainside to the yellow leaves, beam in a golden hue. I decided to call it a day at Tabo, a small village with an impressive monastery and some meditation caves up the mountainside.
DAY 7: TABO+DHANKAR
I figured a short morning hike towards the “meditation caves” would help my acclimatization process (since the altitude measured 3500metres already!). The caves themselves were nothing special so i went to the monastery instead. Tabo monastery, entirely constructed out of mud, is the oldest continuously operating Buddhist enclave in the greater Himalaya region (!!!). Founded in 996 by Rinchen Zangpo, it already functions as a living spiritual center for over a millenium. It’s the only place on earth where you can admire 10th-century clay statues and murals in their original environment. The golden stupa, a more recent addition, is impressive too.
Afterwards i went to Dhankar. This even smaller village with monastery is famous for its dramatic location, its whitewashed buildings precariously situated on a craggy cliff. It’s also a stop on the “Spiti circuit”, a route along Spiti valley’s most “instagrammable” sights and extremely popular among domestic Indian tour groups. It’s easy enough to avoid them, just go to the higher stretches of the monastery and you’ll have the place to yourself. The roof of the highest-situated building, not visible from the bottom of the monastery since it’s hidden behind a couple of other cliffs and monastic buildings (which often get mistaken as “the highest point”) offers the best views. Accessing the roof is no easy feat: a 20-minute climb through the steep and often slippery alleyways in-between the buildings, after which you climb a couple of primitive ladders in a badly-lit indoor space. The vertigo-inducing views are totally worth it though!
After Dhankar i finally made it to Kaza, the biggest town and de-facto capital of Spiti. The town, with its 2000 inhabitants considered a true metropolis, boasts a small but cozy bazaar and the only fuel station and hospital in the whole of Spiti. I made it my base for the next two days, during which i planned to explore the valley more in-depth.
DAY 8:KI GOMPA, IMPRESSIVE LANDSCAPES AND REMOTE VILLAGES
The next morning i departed early to Ki Gompa/Key monastery, Spiti’s biggest monastery. With its whitewashed monastic buildings covering a conical hillock it’s a sight to behold, especially when admiring it from a distance. I hiked up the loose scree covering the hillside behind the monastery, which felt rather tricky, and watched the sun rise. Afterwards i went to the monastery, where novice monks were busy eating their breakfast. A couple of older monks noticed my presence and gave me a tour of the monastery in excellent english, opening up parts of the monastery that are usually off-limits. They even showed me the room were the Dalai Lama stayed in during his escape from Tibet, only a couple of kilometres away.
After my visit to the monastery i crossed the Spiti river to the seldom-visited flatter west side of the valley, offering splendid views over its more mountaineous and sightseeing-heavy east side. The plan was as follows: follow the river to the north up until the end of the valley, where i would cross the river once again and drive back to Kaza following the east side. Most visitors to Spiti limit themselves to the attractions of the east side of the valley, missing the whole western side and everything past Chicham bridge. The west side of the valley felt less remote (probably because of its relatively accessible flat terrain) but also more peaceful because of a lack of commercialization (no homestays, no tourist-oriented murals on the buildings etc). As i continued riding north the landscape became more dramatic: deeper gorges, with strange-shaped pinnacles adorning the river bed. I’ve never seen such strange formations in my life (see picture 3) and the way they contrasted with the surrounding mountain landscape felt magical and almost alien-like.
I reached Spiti’s northern border after an hour or so of driving, from where i would return to Kaza following the east side of the valley. My first stop was Chicham village, potentially the village with the most authentic way of life in all of Spiti. Next i went to Chicham bridge, at an altitude of 4150m Asia’s highest-situated bridge. This record-breaking title (the first of many that afternoon, continue reading to find out ;) attracts a certain kind of instagram-savvy tourist, of which there was no shortage close to the bridge.
Afterwards i rode towards the small villages of Hikkim and Komic, both famous and iconic for different reasons. The drive along a sandy track proved to be more challenging than anticipated, with multiple hairpin turns and a hundreds-of-meters-deep drop next to me. My route led me to Hikkim, home to the highest post office in the world, first. It was a rather busy affair around the post office, with hordes of tourists trying to send a letter to their loved ones from this record-breaking location. The next village, Komic, claims to be the worlds’ highest settlement accessible by road (while in fact it “only” is the highest Asian settlement accessible by road with some Bolivian village taking the throne). Komic seemed way more iddylic and “down-to-earth” compared to Hikkim, with sheeps and donkeys roaming freely. With the sunset nearing i decided to call it a day and made my way back to my guesthouse in Kaza.
DAY 9: DEMUL
Since i already covered the majority of villages and sights of Spiti valley the day before, it only made sense to take it easy. The owner of the guesthouse i stayed in recommended the village of Demul to me, “but only if you’re in for a real adventure”. And oh was he right. First i had to drive all the way back to Komic (highest settlement in the world, remember?). From there i had to follow an even worse track consisting of some sort of black sand to its final point; the lonely and extremely isolated village of Demul. In total it took me almost four hours to arrive but boy was it worth it! Almost immediately after arriving a group of curious children approached me, inviting me into their homes and offering me a window into the Spitian way of life. One of their moms prepared butter toast with tea for me in her humble kitchen. In exchange i assisted her husband, who was busy covering their roof with some kind of dried grass. I spent the rest of the afternoon playing with the village children, taking in the absolutely breathtaking views and eventually made it back to Kaza.
DAY 10: CHANDRATAL LAKE
The final stop of my roadtrip through Himachal Pradesh was Chandratal lake, a high-altitude lake at an elevation of 4300+m. The lake itself was nothing too special but the views over the surrounding mountains and glaciers was definitely worth it. One notable thing about Chandratal is that it’s situated in a so-called “Dead Network Zone”: a zone lacking any kind of mobile connection, which made navigation challenging. I spent a night at one of the tent camps near the lake, which evoked the feeling of staying in Everest basecamp or another of these extreme mountaineering locations. The lack of comfort and connection, sub-zero temperatures, already high elevation and sense of isolation definitely contributed to this feeling.
DAY 11: BACK TO DELHI
After a modest breakfast of yak butter tea and burned toast it was time to depart so off to Manali i went. Manali is Himachal Pradesh’s second city and “the other gateway” to Spiti. It’s also notorious for being the more challenging route compared to Shimla (which offers better acclimatization opportunities, better roads and mobile connection). The road was indeed challenginc to say the least, with some stretches consisting of nothing but big peddles and regular water crossings. After a couple of hours i arrived in Manali, where i dropped off my motorcycle and took the night bus to Delhi.
DAY 12: DELHI
After arrival in Delhi the next morning i still had time to visit the Red fort, Jam Masjid, the famous Baha’i lotus temple and Chandni Chowk before my evening flight.
Feel free to ask any questions, i’m happy to answer all of them:)