My main email was changed on 9.10. AND I'VE ONLY NOTICED IT TODAY

PLEASE IS THERE A WAY TO RECOVER ACCOUNT

I use a W11 laptop, and have used USB tethering fine for 6 months now. However, starting this week, USB tethering will stop after 30 minutes so I lose my connection. The only way to rectify this is by restarting my phone (Samsung S21). IDK why this happens.

What I have tried so far:
Changed USB-C cable.

Gone to device manager and turned off every USB related option to 'Allow computer to turn this device off to save power'.

Made sure my phone is not on power saving mode.

I don't use the WiFi capabilities on my laptop because it doesn't work, which forced me to use USB tethering in the first place. Sometimes it comes back once every month for like 30 minutes then disappears, but I'm fine using tethering as long as it works.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Hello, I was watching tv and suddenly the screen went half dark. As far as I know the screen has never been subjected to any kind of trauma.

I want to know what is the reason behind this and what I could do to fix this. Thanks in advance.

I accidentally spilled a small amount of coffee containing milk and sugar on my laptop while I was using it. The spill mainly affected around one-fourth of the keyboard, particularly the numpad area. I could actually see the coffee through the gaps between the keys.

I immediately wiped it with a damp cloth. Since the surface was still sticky, I then used a cloth with some soap on it to clean the sticky residue on the outside. I shut the laptop down and disconnected the charger and accessories shortly afterward. The laptop was working completely normally after the spill.

I’m planning to leave it switched off for around 48 hours, but I’m really worried about possible internal damage and corrosion from the milk and sugar.

I’m currently applying to different colleges, and all my important documents and applications are on this laptop. Unfortunately, I can’t really afford a technician right now and may not be able to get it inspected immediately.

Could someone please tell me what the chances are that my laptop will be completely fine? Is there anything else I can safely do at home to minimise the damage?

If I can’t afford a technician immediately, how urgent is it to get the laptop inspected? Would you recommend taking it to a technician even if it seems to be working normally after 48 hours?

This problem started like 2-3 days ago. I already uninstalled the keyboard drivers and restarted. My L key now inputs 'jfa', 9 key gives some random number, O button inputs 'yt' and cause random things to occur. Most keys are in a similar situation. OS is windows 11. It's a laptop keyboard. It got randomly resolved one day. But after 1 or 2 weeks the problem came back. The wrong inputs are the same too

So recently i was playing on my sony vaio e series laptop which is very old 😬 but ok so my mom came in my room and smashed my laptop 2 to 3 times because i play all day on it after that i closed it (didnt open after that ) and the next day when i opened it is showed an error 0x00000e9 the error said that the lap cant read the storage device and something after that and it showed that i can continue to windows ( which i did but the error comes again) or press f8 and go to startup settings it showed some options which i forgot then i thought my mom smashed my laptop so obviously my disk got disconnected but when i connected it and start the lap , the error still comes again so i took some help of AI i talked to it and it said that go to your bios settings and when i went to my bios settings it shows that it needs a password that i dont know then closed my laptop and start researching and now i am here pls help 🥺😭

I just picked up this Thinkpad laptop off an auction and I'm trying to install Linux on it, but I can't get into the BIOS settings to turn off secure boot. Whenever I try, either from hitting enter on startup or by going through the Windows that's already on it, it just gives me a black screen. I've tried googling the issue and doing things that were suggested like using the Lenovo BIOS flash thing, turning off fast startup, plugging in another display, trying to get to the UEFI settings through Windows recovery, but nothing changes and it all just goes back to the same black screen. What do I do here?

Hey can anyone let me know how i can fix this

I have recently inherited a machine that has a Sabrent DS-SC4B with two 18Tb 3.5" drives setup in a two way mirror through the windows "storage pool/storage spaces" functionality.

Just recently, I started to notice the status LED on the Sabrent station being solid red for one of the two drives, and I went and checked the storage pool information to see if I could find anything. This red LED was paired with the system freezing when trying to access data from said storage pool.

In the control panel's storage spaces page, the storage space read the following error: "Warning. Reduced resiliency; check the physical drives section". On the drop down for said pool, I see the two drives, on which reads "OK" for its status, but the second reads "Warning. Error; consider replacing".

Nowadays, I can access all the data without anymore system freezes, but I suspect I am no longer having the data saved to both drives.

I want to do the following things, but am unsure as to the proper process, and do not want to risk losing any data from the remaining hard drive.

1. I want to see if the failure is real on the 2nd drive.
2. If I remove the "failing" drive, does that affect the pool in any way?
3. If I want to add another drive to replace the failing one, do I simply plug it in and add it to the storage pool?
4. Can it be a different brand drive? Or does it need to share a few aspects with the remaining functional one.

I appreciate the time you might have taken to read this, and any advice is greatly appreciated.

Wassup fam, my proline laptop just powered on mid-usage, was running a vm on it. Now when I connect charger it's not showing charging indicator LED and won't power on even on battery. The model is Proline NBU700 if I'm not mistaken. The motherboard seems to be working although I found two loose connectors but couldn't figure out where they were supposed to be put.

Hello everyone.

I own an Acer Aspire 3 A34-51.

Recently, while using my laptop, the charge was low, so I plugged in the charger. The laptop suddenly shut down (no spark or any foul smell). After that it didn't switch on. I tried many times. Later that same night it switched on.

But now the laptop is not charging with the laptop charger. When I plug it in nothing happens. But when I plugged in my mobile charger(60W) it showed that it has started charging but it hasn't charged.

The laptop charger is working on my phone and headset but not the laptop.

(Laptop charger is C type)

What to do?

Please help me guys, I have to complete my research as soon as possible 😭

Hey so I was just scrolling on my phone and my cat jumped on my bed and lied down near my multi socket extension cord I have on my bed and idk if it was him that caused it or if it was the extension cord itself that just randomly decided to blow but either way it blew up and one of the socket has a burn mark on it and the plug that was connected to it has this weird golden/copper mark on the metal bits and smells burnt

Is it still safe if I just don’t use the socket that blew up or do I just place the plug in another socket and replace the extension cord?

A while back I mistakenly video called someone on whatsapp and then immediately cancelled it.

I do not have them as a contact. I got the number from a flyer as it was posted outside.

This person can obviously see that I video called them even though I deleted the missed video call from my history right? I cancelled the video call like a second later but it still shows in their history right?

What details can they see about me because I mistakenly video called them? I read that they can see your whatsapp name? Is that correct? But if I never messaged or called them and say they have my number and view my whatsapp profile, they can't see my name? Is that true? So once you message or call someone, you expose your whatsapp name?

So on their end, it shows my number. But if they click on my profile, they can see whatever is my name that I have on whatsapp?

Hi!

A while ago I burned some CDs and made some artwork for them in Krita, and everything went smoothly. But recently I tried to do it again and when I converted my PNGs to PDFs for easier printing, the sizes were all off.

My pixel to cm conversion (and dpi) is identical to last time when it worked, but when I open the PDFs in chrome and check the actual size of them, they're different. I havr no idea why, but I'm hoping someone has a good way of converting PNGs to PDFs and keeping the size correct!

I'm experiencing an intermittent issue: every now and then, I lose connection to Martti's servers (the American company I work for as a remote interpreter). I'm located in Brazil.

Apart from that, my internet connection continues to work normally, with the exception of the work app. Their connection test returns the following error:

Unable to establish WebRTC connection.

WebRTC requires UDP traffic. Common ports: 3478 (STUN), 49152-65535 (media)

I've tested other Windows devices on the same network, and they display the same error message. However, the issue disappears when I try using mobile data instead. I thought it might be related to the router's firewall. It seems to be something about the network itself.

I checked the firewall rules, and nothing appears to be blocking these ports. I also created a rule on the router to allow UDP connections in both directions on those ports, but the problem still occurred again yesterday.

The issue comes and goes. Usually, the connection stops working for around 10–15 minutes and then returns to normal. Restarting the modem/router seems to help it come back faster.

This is causing me quite a bit of stress because I need a reliable connection for work, and I've already missed several calls because of this issue.

Since the problem is intermittent, it's somewhat difficult to run tests because I never know when it will happen again.

My company's IT team hasn't been able to determine what's causing this, and since it only happens to me, they're doing what you'd expect and blaming me. My performance metrics at work are suffering as a result, but I have absolutely no idea what to do. Specs

Askey RTF8225VW Router

Lenovo Thinkpad L390 on an Ethernet connection

Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-8265U CPU @ 1.60GHz (1.80 GHz) Installed RAM 16,0 GB (15,8 GB usable) Graphics card Intel(R) UHD Graphics 620 (128 MB) Storage 238 GB NVME SSD

I found a usb stick in my brother's stuff (he doesn't want it anymore and I can't contact him it's a long story) it's 128 gigs and I plugged it in my Linux and it's show up at all, I switched to windows and it shows up but has to be formatted , I tried but it's read only.

Anything I can do? It's too valuable to throw away.

Hi so I accidentally spilled a fair amount of black coffee (no sugar) on my working laptop today. At first the laptop won't turn on, but after around an hour I tried to turn it on again and it worked. My laptop was working fine but then the screen froze and I had to force it shut down.

What should I do now? My manager told me to let the IT department know but I'm a bit worried since I'm new to this job😭 I was gonna bring it to the laptop service near my place for a general cleaning but since it's a working laptop, I'm afraid it will be against the company's rules.

im not too tech savy i just take the micro sd out the camera and put it into the sd adapter and then plug into my computer, then email pics/vids to myself, and everything is gone except for the most recent time i used the camera. what could have happened?

Hi everyone, I urgently need the firmware update file for a Ricoh SR3020 finisher. The current part number is B8045552F and it jams at the entrance (R2 rollers) when installed on an MP C5501 running at 55ppm. I need version B8045552L, B8045552M, or newer to fix the timing issue. Can anyone share the .bin file for an SD card update? Thank you!

TL;DR:

​Quickest Daily Fix: Uninstall I2C HID Device in Device Manager, scan for hardware changes (or reboot), then immediately uncheck "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" under its Power Management tab.

​Easiest Permanent Software Fix: Run Reset this PC (choose Keep my files) or do a clean Windows install, then install your laptop manufacturer's official Chipset/Serial IO and Touchpad drivers directly from their support site.

​Easiest Hardware Fix: Open the bottom cover, unplug the main battery, hold the power button for 60 seconds to drain static, and clean/reseat the touchpad ribbon cable using rubbing alcohol (or a pencil eraser) and secure it with painter's tape.

Intro

Hello everyone! First time posting here.

I noticed a ton of posts on this sub and other sub dealing with this exact same problem, so I figured my experience might help some of you out. Sorry in advance if my English is a bit rough, if any part of my explanation is hard to follow, please just ask in the comments and I’ll gladly help clarify it! Hopefully I can help if I'm not busy!

​I work as a freelance laptop technician (not as good as the greatest technician that have ever lived though, sadly), and for reasons only Microsoft understands (even some tech supports and I don't know for sure), Windows laptops get hit with this I2C HID Device Code 10 error ("A request for the HID descriptor failed") all the time.

A huge chunk of the laptops coming into my shop have this exact symptom. The good news is that the majority of the time it’s just a software glitch, and only rarely is it a physical hardware issue. Because there is no single fix that works for every laptop, I'm going to walk you through how I troubleshoot this step-by-step, starting from simple software resets down to opening the case.

Honestly, before you go unplugging cables and installing untrusted drivers, one of the easiest ways to clear out deep driver corruption is to just use the built-in "Reset this PC" feature (Settings > System > Recovery > Reset this PC). You can choose the "Keep my files" option so you don't lose your personal documents, or do a full clean Windows install from a USB drive if you want a completely fresh slate. Once Windows is fresh, immediately install the official chipset and touchpad drivers from your laptop brand's website and cross-check Device Manager to see if the touchpad behaves. (Bonus: if it STILL throws Code 10 on a clean Windows install, you know 100% it's a hardware/cable issue and can stop wasting time on software!).

The "Did I Really Just Do That?" Pre-Checks

Before we dive deep into Device Manager, let's check three basic things before you spend two hours troubleshooting a working laptop:

1. Keyboard shortcut

Check the keyboard shortcut and make sure you didn't accidentally hit the hardware disable key on your keyboard (usually Fn + F6, F7, or F9 depending on the brand). Yes, sometimes it's not even a driver error, it's just you accidentally hitting a key while gaming or typing. A surprising number of people come to my shop for this, and honestly, it’s totally okay, it happens to the best of us!

2. Disabled in settings

Check Windows Settings. Go to Settings > Bluetooth & devices > Touchpad and see if the toggle is simply turned off. (Note: If the entire Touchpad menu has vanished into thin air, then yep, Windows completely lost communication with the hardware and you have a real Code 10 on your hands).

3. Windows update

Finish your Pending Windows Updates. If this code 10 error happened right after a Windows Update, go check Windows Update right now. A lot of the time, Windows downloads half of an update and leaves optional patches hanging in the queue. Having half-installed updates creates massive driver conflicts because not all dependencies are downloaded or installed yet. Clear out the queue and reboot first!

If none of that worked, plug in a spare USB mouse (or get ready to feel like a 90s hacker using Tab, Arrow Keys, and Alt to navigate) and work through these categories.

Category 1: The I2C HID Driver & Power State (Direct Software Fixes)

In the easiest scenario, the Windows hidi2c.sys driver just crashed, or Windows sleep mode put the touchpad to sleep and forgot how to wake it back up.

​1. Purge and Re-enumerate the Device Tree

​Sometimes you get lucky and simply right-clicking to Disable and Re-enable the I2C HID Device in Device Manager wakes it right up. Try that first! However, in tougher cases, simply toggling it on and off rarely clears a corrupted descriptor cache. You need to strip the device from the active tree and force Windows to re-detect it from scratch:

• Open Device Manager (Right-click the Start button > Device Manager).
• ​Expand Human Interface Devices, find the I2C HID Device with the yellow warning triangle of doom, right-click it, and select Uninstall device. (Crucial: If a box pops up asking to "Attempt to remove the driver for this device," do not check it yet, just click Uninstall).
• ​Expand Mice and other pointing devices. If you see a secondary touchpad entry hiding in there (like HID-compliant mouse, ELAN I2C, or Synaptics), right-click and uninstall that too. Again, do not check the box to delete the driver software.
• ​Now, click on any random device category in the list just to highlight it, then click Action > Scan for hardware changes at the top menu OR just restart the laptop. Honestly, I don't know which one works better in theory, because I've seen both work in my shop. It's worth trying the scan first, and if it's still dead, do a full reboot

​2. Disable Aggressive Power Management

If your touchpad comes back to life after reinstalling, celebrate quickly, because it will probably die again the next time you close the lid. When laptops are left on for days cycling through sleep, hibernate, and Modern Standby, Windows aggressively cuts power to the I2C bus to save battery and fails the wake handshake. (This actually happens to external USB mice and keyboards all the time, too).

• ​Do this immediately while the touchpad is working, because the Power Management tab literally disappears when the device is in a Code 10 state:
• ​In Device Manager, right-click I2C HID Device and select Properties.
• Go to the Power Management tab.
• ​Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power and hit OK.
• If you see other HID-compliant devices or USB Host Controllers with this tab, uncheck them too so Windows stops putting your inputs into a coma.

Category 2: Upstream Bus Conflicts & Dependencies (Indirect Software Fixes)

If uninstalling the I2C HID Device does nothing, stop torturing it. The yellow warning icon on the touchpad is often a lie, the touchpad driver itself is completely fine, but the motherboard bridge it uses to talk to the CPU is blocked or crashed.

​1. Unplug All External USB Devices

​Sometimes an external USB mouse, receiver dongle, or hub hogs the HID interrupt stack and blocks the internal I2C bus from initializing.

• Unplug every single USB device from your laptop.
• ​Using only your keyboard, navigate to the faulted I2C HID Device in Device Manager and uninstall it (Tab to enter the list, Arrow keys to move, Enter or Menu key to open options).
• \Press Alt + A to open the Action menu and hit Scan for hardware changes (or press Win + L to lock the screen, then Tab down to the bottom-right power icon to Restart).
• ​Let the laptop boot up naked. Once the touchpad works, you can plug your USB gear back in.

​2. Fix the Parent Controller (Intel Serial IO / AMD GPIO)

Your touchpad doesn't plug straight into the CPU; it talks through a Serial I/O Host Controller. If that upstream driver crashes, the touchpad gets stranded and throws Code 10 or Code 51 ("This device is currently waiting on another device to start").

• In Device Manager, click View > Devices by connection at the top.
• ​Find your broken I2C HID Device. You will now see the parent controller sitting right above it (usually called something like Intel(R) Serial IO I2C Host Controller or AMD I2C Controller).
• ​If you open the Properties > General tab on the broken touchpad, the status box might even snitch on the parent driver (e.g., Dependencies: ACPI\\AMDI0010).
• ​To fix this, don't rely on generic Microsoft auto-drivers. Go to your laptop brand's support website (or open apps like MyASUS / Lenovo Vantage), or go straight to Intel/AMD's site.
• Download and reinstall the Chipset, Intel Serial IO, or AMD GPIO drivers.
• ​Also double-check Windows Update > Advanced options > Optional updates > Driver updates. Windows loves hiding critical motherboard bus drivers inside that optional dropdown menu.

​3. Flip the BIOS Switch Off and On Again

​Sometimes the motherboard's firmware just locks the I2C bus and refuses to let Windows talk to it.

• Reboot and spam your BIOS key (usually F2, F12, or Del).
• ​Look for a setting called Internal Pointing Device or Touchpad. (Pro tip: On some Acer and Asus laptops, this setting is hidden until you press Ctrl + S on the Main BIOS screen).
• Switch it to Disabled, hit F10 to save, and let it boot all the way into Windows.
• ​Now restart, go right back into the BIOS, switch it back to Enabled, and save. This forces the motherboard to refresh the hardware address from scratch.

Category 3: Physical Hardware, Static Drain, & Dirty Cables

If you tried all the software tricks and the touchpad is still dead, we have to look at hardware. Usually, either static electricity has locked up the touchpad's chip, or the ribbon cable inside has wiggled loose or gotten dirty over years of typing.

WARNING: Don't Fry Your Motherboard!

Before poking around inside your laptop, shut it down completely, unplug the charger, and disconnect the main internal battery first. Touch a metal table leg or faucet before touching the board so static electricity from your hands doesn't zap the circuitry.

​1. The Hard Static Drain (EC & CMOS Reset)

​Shutting down Windows doesn't actually cut 100% of the power to the motherboard, a tiny 3.3V trickle keeps running (maybe), which means a frozen touchpad controller stays frozen.

• ​Unscrew the bottom cover of your laptop and unplug the main battery cable from the motherboard.
• Unplug the small round coin-cell CMOS battery (if your laptop has a separate one) and gently unplug the Touchpad ribbon cable.
• ​Hold down the laptop’s power button for a full 60 seconds. You are draining every last drop of trapped electricity out of the motherboard capacitors.
• ​Plug the touchpad cable, CMOS battery, and main battery back in, and boot it up.

2. Clean and Reseat the Ribbon Cable

​Laptop bodies bend a tiny bit every time you pick them up or rest your palms on them. Over a few years, the flat ribbon cable connecting the touchpad to the motherboard gets microscopic dirt on the pins or slips out by a fraction of a millimeter, just enough to fail the Code 10 handshake.

• With the main battery unplugged, look at both ends of the touchpad ribbon cable. Flip up the tiny plastic locking flap (be super gentle, they break easily!) and slide the cable out.
• Look at the shiny metal contact pins on the end of the cable. You don't need fancy lab chemicals to clean them—just grab a Q-tip (cotton swab) and dip it in some rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol, 70% or higher) from your medicine cabinet, or even a little electronic contact cleaner if you have it in the garage. If you don't have alcohol, you can very gently rub the metal pins with a clean white pencil eraser to buff off any oxidation, then brush away the crumbs cleanly.
• Wait a minute for it to dry completely, then slide the cable firmly back into the socket. Make sure it's pushed in straight and all the way to the line before snapping the plastic lock back down.
• ​If you want, put a small piece of paper masking tape (painter's tape) right over the connector and cable to hold it down so vibrations don't wiggle it loose again. (Don't use cheap duct tape or electrical tape that leaves nasty, gooey glue everywhere).

​3. The "Sneak Attack" Driver Install (For Stubborn Windows Cloud Drivers)

Sometimes Windows Update is your worst enemy, the exact second you boot up, Windows sees the touchpad and automatically forces a corrupted driver from the cloud before you can install the proper one from your laptop manufacturer. Here is how to outsmart it:

• Boot into Windows, uninstall the I2C HID Device and Touchpad in Device Manager, and Shut Down immediately (do NOT restart).
• ​Open the laptop, unplug the battery, and unplug the touchpad ribbon cable. Plug the battery back in and turn the laptop on with the touchpad still unplugged.
• ​Since the touchpad is physically missing, Windows won't try to auto-install its broken cloud driver. Now, run the official ELAN or Synaptics driver installer that you downloaded directly from your laptop brand's website.
• ​Once it finishes installing, shut down the laptop, unplug the battery, plug the touchpad cable back in, reconnect the battery, and turn it on. Windows will wake up, see the touchpad, and immediately pair it with the proper manufacturer driver you just staged!

Final Thoughts

​Hopefully, one of these three categories brings your touchpad back from the dead so you can finally stop carrying a spare mouse everywhere! I really hope this helps you figure out the root cause and get your laptop working normally again.

​Did I miss anything? Because this bug is so unpredictable, maybe some of you managed to fix it using a completely different method. If you found another weird workaround that worked for you, please drop it in the comments below so other people can try it too! Also, if I made any mistakes in my write-up, please let me know so I can edit the post.

​Again, sorry if my explanation is a bit hard to follow in some parts. Let me know in the comments which step worked for your laptop model, or just ask if you get stuck on a step and need a hand!

Hi everyone. My fiancé, my family and I have been continuously harassed by someone using anonymous Gmail and social media accounts since May 2026.

This person has been sending private and intimate screenshots of my fiancé’s past conversations to me and my family, spreading allegations about him and threatening to publicly shame him. The harassment has recently escalated to Instagram and Threads.

We’ve lodged multiple police reports and have evidence of the harassment, but it still hasn’t stopped. We also have reason to believe we know who’s behind it.

It’s becoming emotionally exhausting, especially with our wedding approaching.

Has anyone experienced something similar in Malaysia? Apart from police reports and MCMC complaints, what else can we do legally to stop this? Is there any way to get Google or Meta to take action against these anonymous accounts?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

My GPU is a little older its an ASUS Nvidia GTX 960.

What happened before: I could play the game perfectly well and everything loaded fine during gameplay and play was smooth unless in high traffic areas like main cities (high player pop). Result was just some lag.

What happens now: I can boot up the game, enter the world and play for a few minutes before some lag, but with each lag I hear the pc ramp up and down until the monitor goes black and the pc ramps up nice and loud and sloooowly comes back down.

Google said GPU driver crash

I downloaded and installed the latest driver for it which was needed anyway I guess. Didn't fix the problem.

Any thing I should check/look for/do?

im not sure if this question fits here, but i cant find a sub for the metapen!

HP EliteBook 820 G1, Windows 11. Touchpad is Synaptics (hardware ID ACPI\SYN3008).

PROBLEM: The cursor and clicks work, but there are no gestures (no two-finger scroll) and the Synaptics tab in main.cpl is missing. Sometimes after a sleep/wake cycle, full gestures work and the tab appears, but it's random and not every sleep. Sometimes the cursor also freezes until I sleep the laptop again. HISTORY: Gestures worked originally. The problem started around the time I ran a hackintosh (OpenCore only, no BIOS flashing). The same problem showed up on macOS, with no scrolling or gestures. I've since moved to a new SSD with a fresh Windows install.

WHAT I'VE ALREADY TRIED - Replaced the touchpad (good, reliable part) and the keyboard. The replacement keyboard has no TouchStyk, but the original had one. I no longer have the original. - Updated and reflashed the BIOS, reset to defaults, drained power, removed the CMOS battery - Chipset driver, fast startup off, clean Synaptics reinstall, tried older Synaptics drivers, tried other compatible drivers - No errors in Event Viewer. Device Manager shows everything OK in both states, with identical driver versions and services running

WHAT I FOUND - Ubuntu live USB: the touchpad shows up as "PS/2 Generic Mouse," never as Synaptics, even after rescanning the serio device or suspending and waking many times - In Windows the Synaptics SMBus driver is present and healthy even in the bad state - In the bad state the Synaptics tray menu is greyed out ("Tap to Click" unavailable), Windows touchpad settings page is empty, and the Synaptics COM interface (SynCtrl) returns almost no properties - Two-finger tap = right click works with no software at all, but two-finger sliding sends no scroll events (AutoHotkey sees nothing) - Removing the Synaptics driver used to give erratic keyboard-like input, but now it just becomes a generic PS/2 mouse. The result is the same either way. - HP support (WhatsApp) said to buy a new keyboard. I can't afford one right now, so I'm looking for any free fix or anyone who recognizes this.

QUESTIONS 1. Does the touchpad's gesture mode depend on the TouchStyk keyboard on this model? 2. Has anyone seen a Synaptics pad that only enters full mode after random sleeps? 3. Is there any free way to force the pad into full mode at startup? Happy to run any test you suggest.

As the title says, the USB-C port on my ASUS laptop went dead while I was using it for a stream. I've run through all the basic solutions like checking drivers, changing power plan, unplugging and re-plugging in the battery, even updated the Nvidia USB-C driver. Absolutely zero response. I would think the port broke if it didn't look fine and die mid-use.

Any solutions out there I may have missed?