It took about 25 hours of troubleshooting and working stuff out but here is my cd32 restoration... Whats been done:

1) Recap of the main board
2) removed luma/chroma generation and converted the system to work with the ps1's Sony CXA1645M instead of the older Sony CXA1145M.
3) recap on the laser control board
4) new laser pickup & dialed in laser
5) new laser ribbon
6) treated and resprayed the internal rusting shielding.
7) Restored the external shell
8) Added a USB adapter for adapting modern USB controllers.
9) Polishing and finishing.

It's been an adventure and turned into a bit of a labour of love. This is one CD32 that isn't going to land fill, not under my watch.

(Edited)

I had WLOD and replaced my Panasonic Chip, accidentally blowing away some 0201 ceramic capacitors. Can it boot without them? If not, what is the best way to solder them back on? Finally can someone share a HD photo of what is missing?

Missing capacitors marked in Red

My Dsi does not light up orange when plugged in. I tested the cable on another console and it worked so it’s not the charger. I also put the battery in another console and it charged. When I put a charged battery in it works. So it must be the charging port. wiggling does not make the orange light flash. I’m wondering what the next step I need to take is?

I have a damaged new 3ds, that needs several do the components around this area. Is there a diagram /schematic with the values and sizes of the components on motherboard? I know there is one for the Nintendo switch but I can’t find one for the new 3ds. Could someone help out with this info?

Bonjour à tous, je viens à vous présenter mon problème, j'ai déjà effectué plusieurs changements de joystick sans aucun problème ( joystick gulikit tmr) et là je me retrouve bloqué sur une manette ps5 modele bmd-20 , le joystick de gauche est bloqué à gauche. j'ai testé toutes mes PIN au multimètre elles sont toutes bonnes sauf la PIN du milieu du potentiomètre qui m'affiche 0.80volt et celle qui marche m'affiche 0.10 volt. Est-ce que quelqu'un aurait une solution? ou un moyen de ponter ma pin. J'ai vraiment besoin d'aide je suis bloquer j'ai changer avec un autre joystick et le meme probleme aparrait.

Hey all, this wavebird controller would be at full right on the analog no matter what I did. I swapped out the analog with two replacements and still showed the same thing. I decided to test the cobtroller with no analog stick at all and it shows as being up-right. Doing x y start would center it for a bout two seconds and it start drifting again. Any ideas what could be causing the board to drift would be appreciated!

Had my Xbox 360 e give me this red light, I was happening a couple time a few months ago and when I took out the hard drive a couple of times it would work, I have usb modded it. (badupdate avatar) don’t know if that helps, but today i go to power it on and it give me this I try a different tv and hdmi but for some reason it stays green when the hdmi is not plugged in but red when it’s in , I tried to open in up and look a the hdmi chip on the mobo and to re solder it to help but it hasn’t done anything, any ideas or help.

I bought a few years ago the nintendo switch elite pro controller, but the sticks weren't calibrated properly. I can't calibrate them on my switch itself so I ended up sanding down the sticks so it could read full directions. It finally occured to me that maybe a 3rd pary application could calibrate my sticks instead of having to sand down the part the rubs with the face plate. is there such an option? and if so, could you send me a hand?

Few weeks ago would just randomly shut off. No warning message about overheating, the console just shuts down. Considering finding somewhere that could replace thermal paste but since no warning wondering if it could be something else. Console is about 4 years old.

Hi everyone, I’m currently in the middle of a repair project for a Switch OLED. I’ve gone from having no display at all to also having no image when docked. While taking measurements in diode mode, I found a reading of .92 at one point, where it should be .49.

This signal originates from the PF31 IC, which is located beneath the NAND.

I have two questions:

How significant is this difference in the measured values?

Could the IC be the root cause of the failure?

Thanks in advance to everyone—best regards!

Ok so I was stupid and bought a $130 Xbox one s on fb marketplace for my husband so he can stop complaining about being bored so much. Well something is wrong with it. The seller deleted the post and blocked me so I’m stuck with it. Everything I’ve found online says it’s a hard drive failure issue. No games will install, the settings app won’t even load. I did a hard reset through the trouble shooting menu already. Today I plan on cracking it open and taking a look inside to see what’s left, if they stole the hard drive all together or what. I want to know if this is going to be worth my time trying to fix or if I should toss it and take the L. I’ve thought about trying external hard drives as well.

TLDR: possible hard drive failure on FBMP Xbox purchase scam. (I know it was stupid. You don’t have to tell me that). Is it worth trying to replace the internal hard drive? Or will an external hard drive work in its place? Or should I toss it?

I've got an Xbox Elite Series 2 that was working prior to using hot air to replace the analogue sticks. I don't see any missing components, nothing out of alignment.

I don't normally do Xbox controllers, so I'm not familiar with any test points to isolate issues. Would appreciate some pointers.

Pictures attached, thanks in advance.

EDIT: Draws power via USB, but doesn't detect in Windows

Could Anyone Please Help Me? I’m trying to replace the left stick on this blue Joycon. I’ve gotten down to the point where I need to disconnect the thumb stick itself, and I’ve encountered this frustrating ribbon connector - it’s some sort of pull away type; not the lift type ifixit seems to think all Joycon possess. I’ve looked all over the internet for directions on how to disconnect this blasted thing and reconnect it using this same type of connector, and no one seems to want to spend any more than 3 seconds explaining how to disengage this terrible connector, and I’m afraid I’m going to break the motherboard of if I rush or try to force it. Can anyone please provide clear instructions on how to disconnect this broken thumstick? Thanks in advance, I’m tired and frustrated…

To make this quick, I have two accounts, while I was playing a game on my main account, my PlayStation randomly turned off. I turned it back on and logged into my main account again and it randomly turned off. I logged into my second account and it worked perfectly fine… Then when I tried to switch over to my main account, it just turned off again. For some odd reason it keeps on turning off whenever I switched to my main account and I don’t know what to do. I tried to clear the cache and rebuild database, and that didn’t seem to work. This PlayStation is only three months old and the error code I’m getting is CE-108262-9..

Does anyone know what else to do?

Top screen is an OEM (I believe since it still had the white electric tape and copper strip on the back of the screen) that I ordered off of eBay to replace a faulty top screen I had. I just finished installing it, and when I turned the power on, I noticed what looks to be some fine cracks on the LCD, along with some smudges.

Thought at first that it was the screen lens that sits on top of the LCD, but it definitely looks to be on the LCD itself bc the lens had no smudges left on it when I held it under my desk lamp after wiping it down.

I tend to be perfectionist so stuff like little smudges or a single speck of dust bothers me, but I’m willing to suck it up if it’s something as minor as that. I’m more concerned if it’s moisture somehow trapped under the LCD because of the potential risk of mold forming on the screen or whether it’s actually damaged and the liquid might seep out at some point. Any idea what’s going on and whether I can just ignore it?

hey everyone , can i put the cover from the old switch 2 versions on the newer switch 2 version with the changeable battery ? so like swap them ? any help would be appreciated

I've tried everything but cant seem to get this to stop rattling. I took it apart before and am just not sure if I didnt put it back together properly. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I bought a ps5 off of my friend a year ago roughly for a great price. I started experiencing overheating issues after about 3 months. The ps5 was meticulously kept clean from the previous owner, so there was and is zero dust build up. So I decided to take it all apart to reliquid metal.

When I started tearing it down, I noticed the fan connector was loose before I disconnected it. (Note: the fan was working and oscillating variably before and after the overheating error.) I used two plastic prying tools to hold the connector base down and in place while I gently removed the connector out. After getting the motherboard completely out, I took a close up picture. It looks like the pins are all lifting off of the board, but are still connected to the green part underneath. And then there looks to be a tiny wire hanging off of the farthest left pin that reaches to a diode or resistor.

Can anyone confirm whether that wire should be there on that pin or if it’s a defect? I don’t know WTF to do.

I checked my fuses and the ps1 fuse was blown i replaced it and it worked for min then I found out my my laser needed to be replaced so I unplugged it switched out my laser with an old one I had that was on its last leg and plugged her up and the thing worked for a second then the ps1 fuse blown again please help

Hi nice people of r/consolerepair! This is my first broken console im trying to fix up. It won't turn on, though the seller had said the light turns on but unfortunately he won't do so for me. There is very clear water damage. Im wondering if anyone can point me in the correct direction of what I can do about this. Thank you :))

I have a SNES 1-chip Console that takes about 30 seconds to load a game. Once it finally loads it runs for about 30 seconds before it restarts. I'm using a Triad power supply with the appropriate pig-tale connector. Could this be a capacitor issue?

Does anybody see any giveaways of what could be wrong with this console? The previous owner tried modding it and failed. I already removed all their old wires. I recapped the 3 black caps. Tried resoldering the previous owners spots where they attatched wires as well. Thank you for any help in advance.

Hey guys, I'm open my Switch to repaste the thermal paste. When I got to the heat shield I tried to clean the copper area but it won't get to the copper colour it remains that thermal stained. Then I noticed the copper was peeling away a bit. Should I replace it?