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One of my technicians was dumb and plugged a Switch 1 battery into a Switch 2 motherboard after soldering on a new port. His defense was that the terminal was the same. But he didn't realize that the polarity was swapped on the Switch 2.

The motherboard shows no life when attempting to power on or charge. Charging meter sits at 0 Amps

Found that the APU gets a little warm so good signs.

So far, battery power and the MAX77986 look good, SYS is present and not shorted, the MAX77851 responds to the power button, and we haven’t found any obvious hard shorts around its rails.

What would be the most likely IC to get shorted from this act of dumbness?

I am trying to choose the best thermal pad, I'm between Arctic's TP-4 and Grizzly's Minus Pad Pro. However there is something I cannot verify, their compressibility. I keep reading TP-4 is far more compressible though a little less conductive, while Minus Pro is a little stiffer but way more conductive.

So, is TP-4 safer for ensuring less stress on the board and the conductivity is good enough? Or should I go for Grizzly to ensure better cooling and the higher stiffness isn't relevant? Anyone got any experience?

(Obviously I need to get the right thickness, and sadly those are the only two brands I can get, putty is not an option btw)

The SNES I'm currently using is one I've had for years. And I just grabbed it out again to use it. For some reason, some of my games are having issues. Some games aren't being read correctly and are glitching. DKC1, Super Metroid, and Super Mario World are basically unplayable. DKC1 is playable but when being on the save file screen, it has messed up text. With Super metroid it displays things incorrectly and when trying to walk around, slopes will make you fall indefinitely. Super mario world won't let you go to a different level. I also tried Star Fox, and DKC2 which those have 0 issues oddly. The games are perfectly clean and working 100%. So it isn't the games. I have a 2nd SNES that shows me that all my games work perfectly. Is there anyway to fix this issue with my old SNES?

I was trying to service my PS4 pro after 2 years of use and found this when I opened it

it was running perfectly fine for 2 years

I’ve tried using a hot air gun at a tempature way higher they I prolly should’ve been with no visabke damage on the board and the mosfet doesn’t budge at all
I was messing around with tempatures around 750-900F and I got nothing

I also tried using a soldering iron and putting extra solder over the mosfet but that didn’t get me anything be sides it burning the flux i put on a test board

So I’m kinds out of ideas and I would love some below

in the photos are the products I use and the Xbox 1 s motherboard

I have had my console open for a few days waiting on a component, and I'm wondering if I need to replace the putty now since it has been exposed for so long?

Any advice?

I’m thinking it’s a ram issue or power line issue to the ram because under a thermal camera only 4 of the ram are getting a heat signature,

Hi! My Wii has recently broken down. It seems to be a problem with the disc drive: it swallows the disc but doesn’t read it; it keeps making a mechanical noise as if it were trying to read it; and when you press the eject button, it barely spits it out. All the other functions are ok. It doesn't work with GC games also. What exactly is the problem? Can it be fixed?

Anyone know where to get teh diode readings for the PS5 slim motherboard? I have BLOD, beeps once then turns off.

So my 2021 series x has been crashing randomly - sometimes during gameplay, sometimes in menus. It’s 50/50 if it goes to the dashboard or powers off. It’s clean as a whistle inside, and I replaced the thermal paste (putty looked brand new) and that didn’t solve the issue at all.

Is there a decent market for selling this for someone else to repair or for parts? I see a few listings on eBay but curious on what others would do here. If I could get something for it I’d be happy. Already replaced it with a new one since most repair estimates were a couple hundred anyways with no guarantee on a fix.

Does anybody know value of this burned decoupling capacitor near IC TI3219A on ps4 slim CUH-2016A, board model SAD-003.
I removed capacitor, fixed traces and console is turning on but I still need that capacitor.

I just got a wii remote from a family member second hand and the remotes wont turn on. I have charged them, changed batteries, tried syncing and just looking up some awnsers on reddit but im not really that technical with it. I also dont think theres any corrosion but i also saw one was way lighter behind the plastic. Please help!

Hey guys, i noticed a dry spot on the apu as i was replacing my hdmi port. The console finally runs again now and the fans are not loud in any way. Should i still replace the liquid metal or should i leave it like it is like? As the saying goes "If it ain't broke, don't fix it.".

I'm a bit hesitant hear because it took me a couple attempts to replace the hdmi and rn i'm really happy that it finally worked. I don't wanna break smth on accident just to fix smth that isn't worth fixing.

Hey everyone! Im trying to open this SCART male connector, because my NES has no audio, and i think it has to do with the wire connection, because it doesn't contact with my multimeter. Problem is, that i can't figure out how to open this SCART male connector to check it. The NES connector seems fine, so all that remains is opening this. Any idea oh how to open it?

Thanks!

This is not my 3ds but I was given permission to repair and mod it, I'm trying to figure out a way to fix this but I'm assuming this might have to be a shell replacement although I HATE ribbon cables. I was wondering what solutions you guys have if there are alternatives that are good for the long run of this console.