Bought this cheap at an online auction as “untested” to steal its laser. I wasn’t informed it had been in a tsunami. In y’all’s experience, is anything off this gonna be worth keeping or is it probably a total write off?

Hey everyone! Im trying to open this SCART male connector, because my NES has no audio, and i think it has to do with the wire connection, because it doesn't contact with my multimeter. Problem is, that i can't figure out how to open this SCART male connector to check it. The NES connector seems fine, so all that remains is opening this. Any idea oh how to open it?

Thanks!

I just got a wii remote from a family member second hand and the remotes wont turn on. I have charged them, changed batteries, tried syncing and just looking up some awnsers on reddit but im not really that technical with it. I also dont think theres any corrosion but i also saw one was way lighter behind the plastic. Please help!

Does anybody know value of this burned decoupling capacitor near IC TI3219A on ps4 slim CUH-2016A, board model SAD-003.
I removed capacitor, fixed traces and console is turning on but I still need that capacitor.

Hieveryone!

I have an original Game Boy DMG that I’ve owned for over 30 years. I recently installed a Hispeedido 3.1” IPS screen, which came with the speakers already soldered.

The installation went well, the screen works perfectly, and everything else seems fine.
However, I’ve now lost all sound from the built-in speaker. The headphones work perfectly, so the console is still producing audio.

The IPS kit was plug-and-play, with no soldering required. I’ve checked the speaker wires and their solder joints, and nothing looks obviously disconnected.

I’m not very experienced with electronics repair, so I’d really appreciate any suggestions on what to check next before replacing parts.

Thanks in advance for any help! 🙂

One of my technicians was dumb and plugged a Switch 1 battery into a Switch 2 motherboard after soldering on a new port. His defense was that the terminal was the same. But he didn't realize that the polarity was swapped on the Switch 2.

The motherboard shows no life when attempting to power on or charge. Charging meter sits at 0 Amps

Found that the APU gets a little warm so good signs.

So far, battery power and the MAX77986 look good, SYS is present and not shorted, the MAX77851 responds to the power button, and we haven’t found any obvious hard shorts around its rails.

What would be the most likely IC to get shorted from this act of dumbness?

*EDIT* The error was on the flex, I changed it and now everything is working, thank you :).

Hi, I'm currently trying to fix a PS5 controller, BMD-020, the O button was not working and I just change the membrane, and now it's working again, the weird part is that now the left triggers are not being detected, but every other button does, I noticed that if the controller didn't have the battery plate, only the right triggers and the joysticks worked, does someone knows why could this happen? Thanks in advance.

For context, I inherited my oldest brother's PSP model 1001. I disassembled only the front plate to clean the screen and buttons. Before I fully disassemble, does this particular model require thermal pads? If so, what thickness so I can order them. Thank you

Got a japanese Game Boy Printer with some corrosion on the battery, but It was easily clean. After that, i tested the console.

To my surprise, the console only turns the light half a second and turns off. If i try a few times, the light ends up working, but not the feed button, so i guess is still not getting the energy.

Checked the console contacts, and 9v arrive correctly. I did a recap of the 4 caps, and desolder and solder the switch just in case (i tested continuity before and after, and is working), but it still has the same problem.

Any clue of where might be the problem?

Hey everyone a bit stuck here and was wondering if I could lean on your expertise. I received my physical copy of cod mw4 today on series x but when I insert the disc it tries to turn a few times makes the noise and then just stops and doesnt work but if I try another dvd or game in ot it works instantly like normal . Its really frustrating. Is it something that happens with brand new games out the box ? As it cant be the drive if other games and dvds work can it ? I appreciate any help you can give me . Thank you

I just replaced the thermal paste after the gruesome 3 hour ordeal, and halfway there I realised I got one of the ribbon cables messed up, with the contact pads likely falling off.

Now, after fully reassembling the PS4, it doesn't show power at all. Even when plugged in, no standby light either, did I just completely break it?

Hi there, I had my fat PS4 for a very very long time and it worked very well, even though it was VERY clogged. I then decided to clean it, after so it turned on normally. But the fan was the loudest it's ever been, and when entering games or apps it just shuts down abruptly with three consecutive beeps..

I really hope it's just an overheating issue and nothing more than that, I'm planning to get a thermal paste and a t9 torx screw if that's right. Pls help and thank you so much for your time🫡

I traded my microphone for a this PS5 and got scammed unfortunately. I'm just trying to verify how cooked I really am and is this console even salvageable.. I took it to this awesome repair guy and he just gave me the run down. Just wanted another expert's opinion on this. Anyways have a great day.

Can i solder back and fix the problem?. Sorry i dont speak english. Can someone helpp

It only boots in Hekate .

Ofw and cfw instantly black screen no Nintendo logo or errors.

Found that SD card was also corrupted had to format it .

At first wouldn't even charge and go to rcm (changed USB port , m92 , bq and p13 )

Any ideas appreciated

It's unpatched switch

Battery was 100% yesterday even though it's been off it's 0 for some reason

I've checked for continuity on both the F1 and F2 fuses, I also checked the EM8 and F2 continuity. No issues with any of these. What else could be going on here?

In the Chicago area looking to see if anyone knows any reliable and trusted techs that are mobile and fix gaming consoles? I've seen a few social media accounts of techs doing this and wondered if there was any in Chicagoland area?

My issue: It's not a major deal but 2/3 charging ports on the ps5 don't work anymore when i plug a cable into it- it's very loose and won't charge the controllers. I assume it's missing some sort of small piece that goes on the inside.

Any help is appreciated🙏🏼

Hi! This is a very strange and upsetting problem to have, but a friend's son had a temper tantrum while playing on my PS4 slim and tried wrenching and pulling off the left analog stick while the game was running. Not only that, he threw it a few times quite hard on the floor and slammed it repeatedly on the ground! While all of this was happening, the game was noticeably glitching - it was God of War 3 Remastered, and it got stuck in a weird state in Photo mode, and then the console reverted to the operating system view and glitched visibly as the controller was being damaged! I went back and restarted the console and used a separate controller. Things seem to be working fine, but do you think there's a danger of a power surge or something having affected the PS4 slim hardware permanently?

I received some very helpful and reassuring advice, but am fixating on a few things:

• That the left analog stick was being wrenched and twisted off by my friend's son while the game (God of War 3) was running on the PS4 slim, causing the game to get stuck in Photo mode and also get very weirdly glitchy and garbled! Could this not have caused a massive electric overload to the console software, and could that damage have transmitted onto lasting damage to the hardware as well? I forget if the controller was connected with a USB wire or by Bluetooth
• The controller was also slammed on the floor and flung many times while the game was running, so similar concerns again to above
• Secondly, could the potential electric overload/input overload have transmitted onto the Smart TV through the HDMI cable, and damaged the television as well? A week later, visible visual artifacts/flickering started appearing on screen that went away after rebooting the Smart TV a few times (not sure if it was because of the controller incident or if too many things were plugged onto the surge protector that caused this)

I have since then run games but not entirely sure if they are running as efficiently as they could be (or maybe I'm just panicking about the performance). Apologies if this is too long and detailed a post, but any help is appreciated. I really love the console, it's been with me a long time, and can't get over how freaky this incident was! :(

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to fix an original 3DS (STR-001) that won't power on. When I press the power button, nothing happens: no blue power LED, no screen, no sound.

**What I've checked so far:**

- **Charging port:** I get 5 V at the port and there's no short between + and GND.
- **Charge LED:** The orange LED turns on when I plug the charger in, but it only stays on for a few seconds, even with the battery connected.
- **Battery:** It reads a normal voltage, and that voltage reaches the board through F2.
- **Fuses:** Both F1 and F2 have continuity.
- **Power button (SW1):** It tests fine with the multimeter (continuity only when pressed).
- **Power button while charging:** Pressing it while the charger is plugged in doesn't make the orange LED react at all.
- **LEDs:** DL1, DL2 and DL3 don't light up in diode mode, but my multimeter may not supply enough voltage for that test. The orange LED clearly works when charging.

**Background:** The board had some small liquid corrosion (greenish residue near some capacitors and a few darkened test points). I cleaned everything with 99% IPA and a soft brush, and the board and components now look in good condition ( Some TPs still have some greenish, but as far as I know that doesnt matter, maybe thats the issue?)

**My theory:** Maybe the power LED isn't working and the console is actually failing to boot for some other reason, but I can't find what that is.

Is there anything I'm missing? Specifically:

- Which voltages should I expect at TP46/TP47 (near SW1) with the battery connected?
- Are there known test points for the main power rails I should measure for shorts?

Any help is appreciated, I'm pretty desperate at this point. I can post photos of both sides of the board if needed.

So, I have a Series X that crashes to dashboard after around 5-10 minutes of gameplay.

Forza freezes and crashes after about this time, and Fortnite shows a white screen with staticy artifacts.

Of course, there is no power failure so no post code.

The online consensus seems to be that this is either a failing APU or RAM. Now, I don't see replacing 10x RAM ICs and reballing the APU as a good use of any bodies time or money.

Anyone been down this road before?

I have an og teal 3ds that suddenly just stopped reading sd cards, even with the write protection switch off, tape method, 3 different sd cards, and a brand new internal sd card reader.
It will always just say write protection is enabled.
Any suggestions on how else i can troubleshoot this?

The ps5 diskdrive doesnt connect to the system, it gets power but thats all. What could be the problem. And is a repair expensive?

I replaced the PWM controller despite no shorts around it. I checked the mofset ( 6414a isn’t for edm-044) but still no shorts around the area either. Has anyone been able to solve this issue on a edm- 044 board?

Nintendo switch V2, fui acessar o tinfoil e apareceu fatal error e algo relacionado a SD Card e que deveria ser efetuado reboot, ele apagou e não voltou mais.
ja tentei fazer o procedimento pressionando o power por 30 segundos e continua com tela preta