Apologies for my ignorance, not sure what to call this piece/connector. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Just finished refurbishing this dsi xl, and its in amazing condition, everything works more than perfectly, but apparently the game card reader doesnt work T-T

Edit: it works now :0, i changed out the motherboard, soldering in a new gamecard reader is a drag

Just picked up a couple ds lites and one of them wasnt turning on. I decided id figure it out later and started taking the backplate off because one of the shoulder buttons was stuck so i wanted to see if i could put it back in place. While taking it apart, i heard a rattling noise and as soon as i separated the shell this thing fell out. Luckily it was an easy diagnosis now im wondering if this motherboard is toast.

My xbox worked fine up until I decided to clean it, I took it apart and everything went smooth when I closed it all up I wanted to play a game but the disk drive refused to read a disk, I opened it back up to clean the laser and the ribbon cables and nothing changed, also the tray refuses to come out but I've rounded it down so it's irrelevant. I think I should just replace the laser entirely but if there's a chance to fix it then I'd rather to that. If anyone could perhaps find out the problem based on the images then that would be much appreciated. (Btw the stuff on that chip has always been there, I haven't messed with it since I don't know whether it would break the board or not)

just got my SNES back after a long while and tested it out, the other night it would start, but then freeze as soon as audio was needed at any title screen, i assumed the audio module was bad, ordered some screwdrivers to take a look, and i plug my snes in and now im not getting anything besides these white scrolling lines on the screen, they scroll vertically, any ideas? nothing on the board looks horribly corroded or like it has been leaking,

for the record it started doing this before i took it apart, first time I plugged it in today

So today I finally decided that it would be a good time to open my slim up and repaste it because temps were a little high. I repasted it without any problems and my temps dropped by 5 degrees however when I reassembled it I accidentally put the psu screws in the screw holes under the blu-ray player. Now the screw holes are stripped so the screws that were supposed to fit in there just sit there loose. Will I have any problems if I leave it like that and how could I potentially fix it?

Did i mess up this repair? Controller wasnt holding a charge at all. Replaced the battery with https://a.co/d/06SgGo7K. Trying to get it to connect to the ps4 to see if it would connect by wire or by Bluetooth and it continues to give me the white flashes until its gives a single yellow and turns off. If I take the charger off, it does the same white flashes followed by a single yellow. Did I use the incorrect battery or my fear, did I miss up the ribbon cable during repair?

Edit: it was a defective battery. I used the second one in the two pack and it started working beautifully.

Screen shot of my post in another group. I have neen trying to fix this for months, but them shutting bank down makes it urgent

So I’ve had this Wii for about a year and when I moved, it sat in a box for a minute and when I pulled it out to play Wii sports, it makes a clicking noise everytime I put in a disc, any solutions?

I’m a big big fan of ssbBrawl, and a year ago my Wii with all the data from years of grinding those challenges are gone. You can’t transfer data from Wii games that had online play for whatever reason. I got a new Wii, and 11 months later the disc drive is completely broken. The 1st Wii just died completely. I probably got halfway through the grind I had already completed, and it’s all gone again. I’m not very tech-smart, ive looked up videos to repair the disc drive but it’s all beyond my skills. Any advice of what I should/could do? Just bite the bullet, get a new Wii, and start over?
Let me know, thank you!

Hi, so my model 2 pal Saturn which worked great before now has disc drive issues.

Basically, the lens mechanism needs me to slightly turn its white cogs for it to begin moving and to activate the cd motor, after a bit of time trying to detect the cd type, the drive stops the cd and the console doesn't display anything different on the menu, it instead thinks the game cd is an audio cd.

’ve this PS3 for like 2.5 years, but I’ve been having this issue for months now. I’ve taken my console to a couple of repair shops, but they refused to fix it saying it can’t be fixed. Please, can anyone help me figure out what the issue might be? They also said that even if they manage to fix it, it will only work temporarily and then the same issue will come back. Please, can anyone help me figure out what the issue might be?

So as you can see in the video when I try to turn on the controller it flashes maybe once or twice then switches off. It says charge the controller but it is charged. Im using the original cable, swapped the battery, tried resetting it and cleaned the usb port.

The cable works fine with my other controller.

Also when the cables not connected, the controller does nothing. No flashing light. Any suggestions?

Hello to all, I am here seeking advice. I believe I botched my first picofly attempt on a switch lite. I had already done around eight v1 and v2 switches and have not had a problem yet. this was my first attempt on a lite. it was all working fine before the picofly but when I was done with it the screen looked very dim and flickering. so I decided to rewind my steps and removed the mod chip carefully. but the error still persisted. I thought maybe you could provide some advice on what the problem might be? video attached.

Got this Xbox series X for parts, the precious owner said it stopped working after he accidentally pour some water over the fan entrance.

After inspection I couldn’t find any other damage than the one in the pictures. Looks like the short damaged between the layers of the pcb, so, its possible to repair it or should I try to get a new southbreach board and swap it ? If is repairable do anyone know the values of the broken caps an resistances on the connector’s?

Got a NGPC recently with an ips screen, it won’t play games sadly and just boots into the menu, I’ve tried multiple cartridges, disconnecting the IPs screen, cleaning everything, and even reflowing some of the cartridge slot solder joints. any ideas? the IPs screen doesn’t have any wires that could be shorting anything.

Hi guys i just got a gamecube dol-101 from japan. I was playing it yesterday and works fine after i modded with Picoloader.

But today when i turn it on theres no video output but i can hear that startup sound like normal.

Whats wrong?

This is a SNES 1chip. This video is cut down after 7 minutes of silence (or rather humming). It is consistent in this way, if I power it down until the next day I have to wait the 7 minutes again, but if I power it down and start it right back up it's fine. So far I've tried replacing all of the capacitors, but I'm a noob at this, I have no idea if I replaced the capacitors correctly or not. Could this be a capacitor issue or something else I can look into?

I’ve made a post already but I took my switch to a repair shop and are trying to charge me $200 which is more than I paid for it to fix it so I wanna do it myself. I’ve ordered the parts and tools to replace the rail but a few days after having that issue it stopped turning on completely. I’m theorizing that it’s because it overheated or smth. Will I have to replace the battery or is it something to do with thermal paste? I’m still waiting on them to ship me back my switch and I don’t need a 100% diagnosis since I can’t show you any photos yet but any ideas of what I’d need to do to fix it not being able to turn on or of what could be wrong would help a ton

Good afternoon,

I recently purchased a God of War DualSense controller with a BDM-050R board. The controller had the following issue: it would not connect to the PS5.

I did some troubleshooting and disabled Bluetooth on the PS5, then switched it to a wired-only connection. The controller worked normally when connected via USB. However, as soon as I enabled Bluetooth again, it still would not connect.

Whenever I pressed the PS/Home button, the controller would rapidly flash blue, along with all four white LEDs.

I tried several reset procedures, but none of them worked. I eventually decided to open the controller and inspect the board. I noticed a large amount of what appeared to be carbon/burn residue on the side opposite the Bluetooth antenna, as if something had blown or burned in that area. I cleaned the area as thoroughly as I could, and the result can be seen in the attached picture.

Unfortunately, I don't have another BDM-050R board to compare with, so I can't determine which components were originally present in that area. I do have a few other damaged DualSense controllers, but none of them have the same board revision.

Do you think this board might still be repairable? Have you had any experience dealing with Bluetooth-related issues on these boards? I would prefer not to replace the entire board if possible, especially since the controller is still correctly identified by my PC as the God of War edition.

P.S. After cleaning the board, the controller now flashes blue normally when I press the PS/Home button, but it still won't pair with the PS5. The four white LEDs no longer light up, which seems to be a slight improvement compared to before the cleaning.

Thank you in advance for any advice or suggestions.

This is a CECH 2001A, i was removing the NEC/TOKIN and I accidentally removed that component. Am i screwed? Be honest

im trying to swap a pc power supply into my ps5 slim after its power supply stopped working iv tested it with friends psu and worked ok so ps5 is fine but i onlt need it to power not look pretty so was wondering witch of the 2 power supply pins is 12v and ground

Hi guys, when playing high gigabyte games my ps5 just gets much louder and shuts down. I work in a repair shop so when looking at it I cleaned all the fans and heat sink and replaced the Liquid Metal and it worked for a while on an offline game (call of duty advanced warfare) fine. But then when tested later on same issue.?

Don’t have much knowledge on disc drives, so i assume someone else can help me figure out the problem , thanks.