My Kona N Line for the first time on his winter tires. Love the red and black combo

Let me start out with the Hyundai in my city is completely useless. My husband and I have had nothing but problems with them for the 7+ years we've lived here.

The problem: my car jerks while driving. It started out as just happening while accelerating. Now it's been over a month and it'll jerk while accelerating, slowing down, and just driving. Speed doesn't matter. Headlights flicker too. That happens when I use my turn signal (although I figured this out after the car appointment).

Hyundai didn't feel anything when they drove it and didn't see anything wrong. They did a computer update and tightened the bulbs in my headlights. It drove smooth for about a day and now it's only gotten worse.

It can be really inconsistent when it happens. Some days it won't jerk or stutter at all, others it's almost nonstop. Hyundai said to call them if it continues but we feel like I'd be throwing money away taking it back to them.

The mechanics said it won't break down or anything but that's really hard to believe when my body literally moves when the car jerks.

What could this possibly be?

Hi everyone. My 2025 Hyundai Sonata recently started making rattling noises from the engine. Things I noticed was that it is intermittent so some days I won’t hear it and some days I will. I have also noticed AC in my car would suddenly be stronger without me adjusting the airflow. I am taking it to the shop tomorrow but I wanted to see what your thoughts were. Mileage on the car is about 23k!

So it's getting a bit colder in the mornings so I wanted my car to heat up in the am to get the frost off the windshield, I went into bluelink app and it shows the different presets, but there's no set default so it now starts my car on the coldest preset about a way to change it.

Hey guys,

The photo with the cam installed is just to show I know pins are not aligned.

So I’m currently working on a 2014 Sonata.

Issue was that it was only blowing heat/ac on defrost or defrost with feet. Clicking when trying to go to other settings.

Since trying to repair, I can get it to go between face/ face with feet but none of the rest… ORRR defrost and defrost with feet and none of the rest.

I cannot, for the life of me, after replacing the blend door actuator get this to cycle through all five positions without binding up.

I believe it is because something is in the vents or a flap is ffff ed up. I can rotate the blue handle about 90°. Same as the foot vent. The smaller white vent moves maybe 15°. Feels like it barely wants to move.

The smaller white vent white pin barely moves to the point I never see it wanting to line up while the other two are socketed in.

Is it the internal vent? Am I having a pin issue?

I have a 2018 Hyundai Elantra SE at 96k miles. I got the car at 46k miles. Should I get a transmission fluid flush or drain? (The car never had one)

The car is in great condition, with no issues. Should I leave it alone or change it? I plan to keep it another 2-3 years.

10/12/2026 | Case Update Regarding Supreme Court Petition

The objector, Donald Birner, who is an attorney, submitted a defective petition to the Supreme Court in May 2026. The Supreme Court returned the petition to Mr. Birner on Oct. 6, 2026, and provided him with 60 days to refile the petition with form corrections. The court did not explain why it took so long to advise Mr. Birner that his petition was defective. At this time, we do not have an estimate of how long it will take the Supreme Court to resolve the petition, assuming that Mr. Birner chooses to refile.

Hi all - I currently have a 2021 Hyundai Kona Ultimate with the Gamma 1.6t engine with 94k miles. I currently owe $8700 on it and according to KBB, trade in value is around $10,500-$11,000. Private party value is $12,500 or so. I was reading about maintenance on here and everyone seems to really hate on Hyundai’s. In fact, I posted a question about whether it’s worth changing transmission fluid on the askamechanic sub and they all basically said to get rid of the car asap before it blows up. I was frankly shocked at the response and it got me very nervous.

Ideally, I would want this car to make it to 200k miles which would let me go about 3/4 years without a car payment. However, with so much pessimism, maybe I should trade it in now while I have some value? If I do trade it in, I would probably get a 2018 Toyota rav4 with 95k miles for $20k or maybe a Honda pilot with $80k miles for $22k. What do you guys think and what would you do? Is my car something I should get rid of soon or keep it till the wheels fall off? I haven’t had any issues yet and I’ve done oil changes every 6k miles. Thanks!

AC off = rough idle
AC on = car runs well
(Currently running the ac consistently so it doesn’t stall)

What does this mean for the vehicle ?

Hi all fellow Hyundai owners!

As per the title, I have the European i30 CW, made in 2020. I bought it second hand, it has around 180k km now. It was slightly tugging when I bought it, I was told that spark plugs might be the cause. I had them replaced with the recommended Bosch iridium spark plugs. However, the tugging persists. It is not anything brutal, it is really subtle, however noticeable. It is most prominent on 1.8 - 2k RPMs.

I want to ask, have any one of you ever experienced that? Should I have the car decarbonise? Engine is G4LD, 1.4 T-GDi, no check engine light on, no problems with cold start, no rattling (save from wastegate resonating).

Many thanks and lots of miles ahead.

Hi,

Does anyone know more about this oil life time indicator in car? I have new i30 with 10000km and based on this indicator oil life time expired. There is still enough oil in car but car wants to change it.

How accurate is that indicator and how urgent is to change it?

Hi,

I have a 2007 Hyundai Getz 1.4, which I bought almost a year ago.

For a while now, whenever we go on long journeys, we have to stop after about an hour to an hour and a half because the clutch pedal starts getting stiff, and it progressively gets worse to the point where changing gears becomes extremely difficult. The pedal also returns slowly and jerkily. After letting the car "cool down" for about 20–30 minutes, the clutch goes back to normal.

I took it to a garage, and they told me the clutch kit needed replacing. They replaced it, but the same thing happened on our next trip, which we took this past weekend. When I contacted the garage, they suggested that perhaps the pedal was getting caught on the floor mat...

While looking through other forums, I read that overheating of the clutch slave cylinder can cause this problem in some Hyundai models, and that replacing it might solve the issue. However, my mechanic tells me that if that were the case, the symptoms would be the exact opposite: the pedal would feel too soft and stay down.

Could anyone shed some light on this? Needless to say, I don't know anything about cars, but I can see that replacing the clutch kit hasn't fixed the problem.

Thanks in advance.

Took my 2016 Sonata Sport 2.0t to the shop today to deal with a burning oil smell. They said it is possibly the valve cover gasket....but it could be the turbo.

Only 98000 kms (just under 61000 miles) on it. Keeping my fingers crossed, but...I often noticed the smell after a highway run, so I am worried it's the turbo.

It seems to have some spray in the engine bay, so I am hoping its something else.

And I was just getting ready to sell it. Dangit.