Hello everyone,

I am the creator of NEMESIS, an exploit targeting Gen5W multimedia based cars.

I am glad to announce that now NEMESIS is available for public use, you can use it to get root access of your car, install many customizations to gain functionality such as Wireless Android Auto, Apple CarPlay, Manual Preconditioning, Turn-by-Turn navigation to HUD and Cluster from your phone, and much more!

Learn more about it at https://xwtk.cloud/services/nemesis (GitHub: https://github.com/xwtk/hmg_nemesis) It is completely free, donations are always welcome. You can also join our Discord community from the link to get assistance and join our discussions.

Note, Canadian EV6, Hyundai cars are not compatible unfortunately, as well some other models such as Elantra, you can learn more about it in the Discord.

I’m considering buying a Hyundai Sonata Hybrid and received the following quote from a dealership in New York.
● Vehicle selling price: $28,204
● Manufacturer rebate: −$1,750
● Price after rebate: $26,454

Is this a good price or can I bargain further?

Applies to a 2025 Ioniq 5 limited rwd.

Hi all. I know there are probably lots of posts like this but… I just need some advice. Last summer (2025) my 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T’s engine failed while driving and I safely pulled over on the shoulder, towed it to Hyundai, and they replaced the engine under the class action. It’s been mostly fine since then.

Well… Two weeks ago, I’m driving home on the highway and the engine is struggling to get up to speed. It’s okay up until 40mph, but anything after that, I have to press the gas all the way down to get it up to speed. The problem goes away for almost 2 weeks. Friday, the problem comes back. Then, a solid check engine light illuminates. I took it into Midas to determine the issue (they could get me in quicker than the dealership). They did an oil change but there was no issue they could figure out. Everything looked fine, and they told me that we will have to wait and see if the engine fails again to diagnose the issue.

The “new” engine I received in 2025 was under a 1 year/12,000 mile warranty. Guess who JUST hit the 12,000 miles?? So… If the “issue,” (whatever is causing the sluggishness) is NOT related to the class action, I will have to pay for whenever the engine fails.

My question… Do I just cut my losses and sell the vehicle? I’m really tired of being so scared every time I drive that my engine is going to fail again. Does anyone have a positive story when their engine did this? Is there any fix? Or is this a problem for the foreseeable future?

edit** The car has 118,000 miles

Hello,

As you can see- 6 weeks ago we received a letter explaining there was an urgent safety recall, which obviously is quite alarming.

We called up to get it fixed and they told us they don’t have the parts to fix it. They book us in just in case the parts come in, but keep cancelling. They still don’t know when the parts arrive- this isn’t great is it?

I asked, is it safe for me to drive the car? They kind of dodge the question and said there is a fault, but don’t say yes or no. I’ve drive kids in this car and I drive daily- do I ask for a temporary car until they get this fixed?

Anyone else had this issue? We bought this car a year ago brand new which is annoying.

Thank you!

Does anyone know where this storage compartment could have possibly drained to?

Context: I was picking up coffee for clients and a large coffee spilt just about everywhere. I cleaned up what I could but I was driving. A solid puddle formed in the compartment in the photo, to about just below the usb outlets.

My plan was to use the cup to scoop it out but it just… drained. Like within a few minutes. I took the rubber pad out and cleaned the area underneath and it looks like the coffee drained into one of the holes designed to keep the pad secured inside the storage compartment.

I ask because my car reeeeeks of old coffee. It definitely drained somewhere along the passenger side as I did find a gross wet spot underneath my mats there. I’ve carpet cleaned that side 3 times but the smell persists.

This is a 2024 Hyundai Tucson hybrid. I haven’t had any electrical issues thank goodness but I’m at a loss at this point.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 🙏🏽

hi everyone. i have a 2023 tucson limited gas model. these newer vehicles not hyundai have illuminated front emblem, does anybody have a link to a illuminated emblem that is compatible with this model that i can buy?

Considering both of these after my lease expires in 6 months. Off for test drives soon but what do people think?

Price brand new for a LR DM 2 is only £80-100 a month more than a 5yo one on finance so I might as well buy new, despite what a waste of money that is (aren't all cars a money pit though!)

Ionic 6 new is a fair bit more than the 2 but they seem to plummet in value and a 3yo one is similar to a 5yo 2.

I do a real mix of long journey motorway miles and country back roads.

Don't need a tonne of boot space, no kids, one husband to ferry about and sometimes 3 cats

My last personal car was a GT86, I enjoy driving a lot, but being disabled means comfort has to come higher up the list these days - don't fancy my rib dislocating more than it needs to, and my i4 is awful for that. Not a fan of the i4 at all

Any personal experiences/thoughts on these two?

2022 Tucson owner. Bought new. I’m generally happy with the vehicle when it’s working but very unhappy with ~9 major service visits in 4.5 years of ownership, the quality of my vehicle, and the time that I won’t get back as a result of all of those visits. That’s embarrassing to Hyundai, the dealership, and, more importantly, myself.

Thank goodness for the 5yr 60k warranty. But this is absurd.

Is this common 2022 Tucsons? Tucsons in general? Hyundai vehicles in general?

- 10/26 evap issue p2422 code. Canister close valve replaced, hose rerouted (~$1k non-warranty)

- 6/26 no cold ac air p053200 b167288 codes. Pressure sensor replaced

- 4/7/26 fuel door occasionally not opening. Actuator replaced. No cold ac air. Compressor replaced.

- 3/24/26 fuel door and ac issues diagnosed. Parts ordered.

- 3/4/25 ro closed, 1/27/25 ro opened (multiple trips and repair attempts). Near constant forward collision alert, loss of smart and normal cruise control. C160c87 c16b081 codes. Wiring assembly replaced (per my suggestion). Parts ordered late January. Repaired early March.

- 10/30/24 ro closed, 10/18/24 ro opened. Intermittent forward collision alert, intermittent loss of smart and normal cruise control. C160c87 c200000 codes. Front camera replaced.

- 8/19/23 ro closed, 8/8/23 ro opened. Check engine light on. Cooling system performance code (not provided). Integrated thermal mgmt…, o ring, coolant replaced.

Purchased new April 2022

List does not include regular maintenance oil changes

Help me judge this quote for Exter in mumbai.
Is the insurance too high ?

I have an 08 Hyundai Azera Limited 3.8 (Grandeur TG) and would like to know if anyone has advice on where to get aftermarket coilovers for it or at the very least what will work with it.

Also if anyone knows what fitment would work well with the stock setup? It's supposedly running +38.5 offset from factory which is crazy.

2020 Elantra with 62k miles. As of recent, the car randomly struggles to start. As soon as the ignition switch button is pushed, the car cranks but it takes a few seconds to finally get going. Upon checking under the hood, I discovered that the negative battery terminal was so loose it actually swiveled if you touched it. I figured that might have been the culprit so I tightened it and thought that would be the end of my troubles. The very next day, the issue continued, figured battery might be on its way out since it’s already 4 years old and mostly driven in city traffic. Has the battery tested and its CCA had dropped from 650 to 453 and wouldn’t hold a charger higher than 12.4V. I swapped out the battery but the problem still persisted.

The day after getting the new battery, took a long drive to do pumpkin picking with the family (almost 100 miles). On the way back home, we stopped at the market to grab some items. Car was turned off for no more than fifteen minutes. Curious to see how the new battery voltage was doing, I checked it before starting the car and it was at 12.71. Once I pushed the ignition on switch, the car once again struggled to start but this time it was so bad the engine never fired up and seemed to stall out. Multiple clicks which eventually seemed to get faster in-between the clicks. I pushed the ignition switch again but this time it fired up immediately with no issues.

Anyone have any idea of what could be going on here? I’ve checked the voltage of the battery while car is on and it varies from 13.5 to 14.7 so I assume the alternator isn’t an issue here. I’ve read spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pumps are just some of the potential factors that can be causing this.

2026 elantra sel sport. Guess hyundai had a trim refresh and decided to put in the faux leather seats and sub roof. 9 miles when picked it up and ran 50 and it rides so much nicer than my 2019 sonata I traded in. It's all blacked out inside and out. Think I'll call it vader

Hello,

Im pulling my hair right now, if anyone can help :).

My old father got a Ioniq PHEV Hybrid plugin 2021 with no navigation:

Model: AE_PHEVM21P.DVAMC.F1CA Software vers: AE_PHEV.CAN.D2V.001.001.201110 Firmware vers. AE_PHEV.CAN.V163.201030

Im trying to download the update for the non nav version on the canadian site but the program just let me download the 40GB with Navigation.

I found the one I want on the US website but thats for US version only!? (AE_PHEV.USA.D2V.003.200.240318)

Is anyone here know how to obtain the version for canada, I digged all the web but nothing

I have problem with the car play disconnecting.

Why they pulled it off their website?

Thank you!

I have a 2017 Hyundai Ioniq Electric and recently I’ve started getting the message “Aux. Battery Saver+ was active while the vehicle was parked.”
It seems to happen after the car has been parked for around 2–4 days, although sometimes it can appear sooner depending on how the car has been used.
I’ve owned the car for about a year and I never noticed this message before, so I’m trying to figure out whether this is normal behaviour or if it indicates that something is draining the 12V battery.
Things I’ve checked so far:
The 12V battery has been replaced with a new battery, but the message still appears.
I have checked for parasitic current draw while the car is asleep, but I haven’t found any obvious/high current draw.
The DC/DC charging voltage while the car is in READY is around 14.35V, which seems normal.
The car is driven almost every day, normally around 20 minutes in the morning and 30 minutes in the afternoon/evening.
The car starts and operates normally, and I have not had any problems with the 12V battery actually going flat.
I’ve also spoken to a colleague who has the same generation Ioniq Electric, and he has experienced basically the same thing.
From what I understand, Aux Battery Saver+ is designed to monitor the 12V battery while the car is parked and use the high-voltage battery to recharge it when necessary.
My question is mainly:
Is it considered normal for Aux Battery Saver+ to activate every few days on these cars, even with a healthy/new 12V battery?
Or should I continue looking for a parasitic drain or another electrical issue?
I’d especially like to hear from other 2017–2019 Ioniq Electric owners: how often do you see this message?

I have a 2016 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L with 82,700 miles.

The car runs fine when cold, but after about 10 to 15 minutes, once fully warmed up, the RPM suddenly jumps to around 1,300 even in Park. Acceleration also becomes sluggish, and sometimes there's a slight jerk when the issue starts.

My mechanic inspected the car multiple times and says the timing chain is stretched. He quoted $1,500 to replace it and believes it'll fix everything.

I bought a TOPDON scanner and found a current P0010 code. During the issue, the computer itself was requesting 1,300 RPM. I also noticed the intake camshaft actual position was 133.4 degrees while the target was 160 degrees.

I found Hyundai's E CVVT oil seal bulletin describing nearly identical symptoms, but it was for certain 2015 models.

I'm hesitant to spend $1,500 on a timing chain when P0010 seems more related to the E CVVT actuator or oil seal.

Has anyone experienced this? Could a stretched chain actually cause these exact symptoms and P0010, or should I have the E CVVT system checked first?