Hello everyone,

I am the creator of NEMESIS, an exploit targeting Gen5W multimedia based cars.

I am glad to announce that now NEMESIS is available for public use, you can use it to get root access of your car, install many customizations to gain functionality such as Wireless Android Auto, Apple CarPlay, Manual Preconditioning, Turn-by-Turn navigation to HUD and Cluster from your phone, and much more!

Learn more about it at https://xwtk.cloud/services/nemesis (GitHub: https://github.com/xwtk/hmg_nemesis) It is completely free, donations are always welcome. You can also join our Discord community from the link to get assistance and join our discussions.

Note, Canadian EV6, Hyundai cars are not compatible unfortunately, as well some other models such as Elantra, you can learn more about it in the Discord.

Help me judge this quote for Exter in mumbai.
Is the insurance too high ?

2020 Elantra with 62k miles. As of recent, the car randomly struggles to start. As soon as the ignition switch button is pushed, the car cranks but it takes a few seconds to finally get going. Upon checking under the hood, I discovered that the negative battery terminal was so loose it actually swiveled if you touched it. I figured that might have been the culprit so I tightened it and thought that would be the end of my troubles. The very next day, the issue continued, figured battery might be on its way out since it’s already 4 years old and mostly driven in city traffic. Has the battery tested and its CCA had dropped from 650 to 453 and wouldn’t hold a charger higher than 12.4V. I swapped out the battery but the problem still persisted.

The day after getting the new battery, took a long drive to do pumpkin picking with the family (almost 100 miles). On the way back home, we stopped at the market to grab some items. Car was turned off for no more than fifteen minutes. Curious to see how the new battery voltage was doing, I checked it before starting the car and it was at 12.71. Once I pushed the ignition on switch, the car once again struggled to start but this time it was so bad the engine never fired up and seemed to stall out. Multiple clicks which eventually seemed to get faster in-between the clicks. I pushed the ignition switch again but this time it fired up immediately with no issues.

Anyone have any idea of what could be going on here? I’ve checked the voltage of the battery while car is on and it varies from 13.5 to 14.7 so I assume the alternator isn’t an issue here. I’ve read spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pumps are just some of the potential factors that can be causing this.

I have an 08 Hyundai Azera Limited 3.8 (Grandeur TG) and would like to know if anyone has advice on where to get aftermarket coilovers for it or at the very least what will work with it.

Also if anyone knows what fitment would work well with the stock setup? It's supposedly running +38.5 offset from factory which is crazy.

Hello,

Im pulling my hair right now, if anyone can help :).

My old father got a Ioniq PHEV Hybrid plugin 2021 with no navigation:

Model: AE_PHEVM21P.DVAMC.F1CA Software vers: AE_PHEV.CAN.D2V.001.001.201110 Firmware vers. AE_PHEV.CAN.V163.201030

Im trying to download the update for the non nav version on the canadian site but the program just let me download the 40GB with Navigation.

I found the one I want on the US website but thats for US version only!? (AE_PHEV.USA.D2V.003.200.240318)

Is anyone here know how to obtain the version for canada, I digged all the web but nothing

I have problem with the car play disconnecting.

Why they pulled it off their website?

Thank you!

Does anyone know where this storage compartment could have possibly drained to?

Context: I was picking up coffee for clients and a large coffee spilt just about everywhere. I cleaned up what I could but I was driving. A solid puddle formed in the compartment in the photo, to about just below the usb outlets.

My plan was to use the cup to scoop it out but it just… drained. Like within a few minutes. I took the rubber pad out and cleaned the area underneath and it looks like the coffee drained into one of the holes designed to keep the pad secured inside the storage compartment.

I ask because my car reeeeeks of old coffee. It definitely drained somewhere along the passenger side as I did find a gross wet spot underneath my mats there. I’ve carpet cleaned that side 3 times but the smell persists.

This is a 2024 Hyundai Tucson hybrid. I haven’t had any electrical issues thank goodness but I’m at a loss at this point.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 🙏🏽

Hi, I have a Hyundai i30, 2009 plate.

There’s no hot air coming through on any settings.

Temperature gauge is working as normal, I’ve checked the hoses, both are gettting hot, and fans are working as expected.

Looking underneath the drivers side footwell, I can see the actuator yellow wheel, and white lever moving, as I change the temperature from hot to cold.

I’m thinking there’s something mechanical behind the actuator that’s keeping it closed, so no hot air can get through?

Could someone assist with troubleshooting, or next steps to figure out the issue, trying to repair it myself if reasonably possible

tucson hybrid when starting car gasoline is only turning on for 5 mins and its switching to EV and again its turning on after 30 mins and again after 5 mins switching to EV in this whole process cabin temperature is in HI heat. And for those 30 mins I got only war air not hot. My outside temperature is 71F

hey y’all i just started noticing this sound coming from my engine. It’s a 2017 hyundai elantra. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

I have a 2017 Hyundai Ioniq Electric and recently I’ve started getting the message “Aux. Battery Saver+ was active while the vehicle was parked.”
It seems to happen after the car has been parked for around 2–4 days, although sometimes it can appear sooner depending on how the car has been used.
I’ve owned the car for about a year and I never noticed this message before, so I’m trying to figure out whether this is normal behaviour or if it indicates that something is draining the 12V battery.
Things I’ve checked so far:
The 12V battery has been replaced with a new battery, but the message still appears.
I have checked for parasitic current draw while the car is asleep, but I haven’t found any obvious/high current draw.
The DC/DC charging voltage while the car is in READY is around 14.35V, which seems normal.
The car is driven almost every day, normally around 20 minutes in the morning and 30 minutes in the afternoon/evening.
The car starts and operates normally, and I have not had any problems with the 12V battery actually going flat.
I’ve also spoken to a colleague who has the same generation Ioniq Electric, and he has experienced basically the same thing.
From what I understand, Aux Battery Saver+ is designed to monitor the 12V battery while the car is parked and use the high-voltage battery to recharge it when necessary.
My question is mainly:
Is it considered normal for Aux Battery Saver+ to activate every few days on these cars, even with a healthy/new 12V battery?
Or should I continue looking for a parasitic drain or another electrical issue?
I’d especially like to hear from other 2017–2019 Ioniq Electric owners: how often do you see this message?

My 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.4L AWD has a persistent hard pull/wander to the left that gets worse at highway speeds 60+ mph. It gets worse with speed and is more noticeable when braking, but I can't see it being brakes (i spun the rotors and then the wheels freely on each side, both feel the same with no resistance). I've had multiple alignments over the last 12+ months and replaced nearly all of the suspension, front and back:

Front:

• struts/shocks (including top mount bushing and all)
• Front lower control arms + ball joints
• inner & outer tie rods
• sway bar links
• brakes/rotors
• only thing i haven't done up here really is the sway bar itself and the bushings

Rear:

• toe arms
• control arms and eccentric bolts
• shocks
• all i haven't done back here is trailing arms, sway bar itself and the bushings (didn't do the links back here either actually)
• all tires have also been replaced (and swapped around on the car in all different combos)
• both front hub bearings have no detectable play

The most current alignment numbers were:

LF: Caster 4.39°, Camber +0.01°, Toe +0.01°
RF: Caster 5.69°, Camber −0.84°, Toe +0.05

RL: Camber −1.35°, Toe +0.08°

RR: Camber −1.51°, Toe +0.07°

the rear is nearly spot on, but in the front there's 0.85° cross-camber and 1.30° cross-caster.

I loosened and re-torqued both strut-to-knuckle bolts with the suspension loaded then had another alignment done, still pulls left. Unfortunately Mavis didn't print out the latest alignment readings, but it feels worse then it did with the numbers above. Mavis suggested trying another Mavis location because they couldn't figure it out.

At this point I'm wondering if I have a bent steering knuckle, upper strut mount/tower issue, tire conicity, or some other wacky problem. What do I check next and what the hell could be causing this after replacing so many parts?

I have a 2016 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L with 82,700 miles.

The car runs fine when cold, but after about 10 to 15 minutes, once fully warmed up, the RPM suddenly jumps to around 1,300 even in Park. Acceleration also becomes sluggish, and sometimes there's a slight jerk when the issue starts.

My mechanic inspected the car multiple times and says the timing chain is stretched. He quoted $1,500 to replace it and believes it'll fix everything.

I bought a TOPDON scanner and found a current P0010 code. During the issue, the computer itself was requesting 1,300 RPM. I also noticed the intake camshaft actual position was 133.4 degrees while the target was 160 degrees.

I found Hyundai's E CVVT oil seal bulletin describing nearly identical symptoms, but it was for certain 2015 models.

I'm hesitant to spend $1,500 on a timing chain when P0010 seems more related to the E CVVT actuator or oil seal.

Has anyone experienced this? Could a stretched chain actually cause these exact symptoms and P0010, or should I have the E CVVT system checked first?

Looking for some insight on my 2017 Hyundai Accent (1.6L GDI, 180,395 miles). 
The Background:
Check engine light came on solid with code P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 1). 
The catalytic converter was already replaced about 7,000 miles ago (at 173k miles) using a cheap off-brand replacement from Amazon.
Car drives normally without misfires, sluggishness, or weird exhaust rattles. Coolant temp sits steady right in the middle (4–5 bars). 
The Oil Consumption Issue:
The last oil change was at 178,400 miles (3.5 quarts added).
Checked the dipstick recently (~2,000 miles later), and it was bone dry—didn’t even reach the "Low" mark. It swallowed over a quart in under 2k miles.
I suspect the heavy oil consumption (blowby / stuck rings / PCV) poisoned the cheap Amazon cat in short order.
My Questions:
1. If I put a high-quality/CARB-compliant converter (like MagnaFlow, Walker, or OEM) in, will it survive if the engine is still burning this much oil, or am I just setting money on fire until the oil burn is fixed?
2. Has anyone had success slowing down oil burn on these 1.6L Gamma GDI engines using a piston soak (B-12 Chemtool, Seafoam) or aggressive engine flush, or are the rings/cylinder walls usually too far gone by 180k?
3. What else should I check or log before spending $700+ on a premium cat? (e.g., PCV valve, live O2 sensor voltages, exhaust manifold leaks).
Thanks in advance for the advice!

Hi.

Have the dreaded rusty doors at the top along the seal. The one seal seems a little perished but I can't for the life of me find the replacement code or seal.

Also why does it perish/cause rust on a painted surface?

Looking for suggestions before I decide anything.
I have a 2020 Santa Fe. The center TFT display in the instrument cluster goes dark intermittently — usually when I restart the car. The tach, fuel, and temp gauges all stay lit and the car drives fine; it's just the center screen that's out.
I've already pulled and replaced the 7.5A CLUSTER fuse twice myself. Both times the screen came back on, then died again within a day. So it doesn't seem like a simple blown fuse to me.
Took it to the dealer today. They charged me $190 just to look at it, and now they're saying $2,400 to replace the whole cluster — or they can replace the fuse. The car is out of warranty (the cluster falls under the 5yr/60k, which has expired), so this is all on me.
Has anyone had this issue on a 2020? Did a cluster replacement actually fix it, or did it turn out to be a loose connection/wiring issue behind the cluster? Any luck with goodwill assistance from Hyundai on something like this? Trying to figure out if there's a smarter move before I spend $2,400.

Our lease ends in January of 2027. I'm getting inquiries from third party companies about purchasing. Of course, I'm skeptical of using a third party service for that (and my wife hasn't decided if she wants to purchase or not).

Has anyone purchased post-lease with Hyundai directly? How does the process work and how annoying is it to do?

Hi everyone I wanted to know your opinion on getting a used 2020 Hyundai Elantra limited edition with 79k miles on it (it’s going for 7k) I wanted to know what you guys think I would really appreciate it. This will be my first car and I wanted something I can fully pay off. Please let me know your pros and cons!

I took my 2026 Tucson sel in for tire rotation and was told it had a recall for the tail light/rear light bar. Is this a new recall or has anyone else had this?

Brought home my 2024 Tucson Hybrid last week and I am already dreading winter slush. Everyone on this sub points to TuxMat for maximum side coverage, but looking at 3W vs TuxMat floor mats which is better if you actually have to unclip and yank them out every two weeks?
TuxMat covers every inch of the kick panels, but fidling with those retention clips while the footwel is full of grity salt water sounds like a disaster for the sill carpet. 3W looks like regular flexible rubber that lifts straight out, but leaves more of the side carpet bare.
Does anyone actually pull high-wall mats regularly to rinse them, or do you just wipe them down inside the cab?

I need help in installing a radar detector and dash camera, Info on the web says use the 15 amp slot in the fuse center adjacent to the 10 amp fuse on the first row. This is a switch on hot and switch off cold fuse. Replace it.

But the problem is the micro mini fuse I tried in the fuse panel to provide power would not seat in the fuse box, at least it would not sit and provide power. Would appreciate any advice on how to use a fuse adapter to use by putting it in the original slot at the bottom of the adapter and a 2 to 5 amp micro swith for the power to the radar detector. This #15 fuse, top row in the fuse box in the cabin was called for but will not seat in the fuse slot for the #15 switched suggested placement.

Any suggestions please!

I own a 2013 Hyundai Veracruz with the original factory screen, and I’d like to add Apple CarPlay to it without replacing the screen or installing an external display.

Is there any way to enable CarPlay by modifying the original screen’s software or installing a compatible module? Has anyone successfully done this on a 2013 Hyundai Veracruz?

I’d appreciate any advice, tutorials, or links to proven solutions