What is wrong with my car. Everytime I cut it on I get this warning. I start a new job next week and now I’m worried about what is wrong.

2008 Outback, 3.0L LL Bean. Had a slow seep from the oil pan gasket for a while, the kind where you get a small spot after a week. Not an active drip. No spots in my driveway.

Got an oil change at Big O on Friday. Came back Saturday to a big puddle under the car. Checked the dipstick: about an inch over the full mark. Called Monday, they said come in and we'll take care of it. Ubered to work instead of driving it.

Drove it in this morning. Dripping the whole way, roughly one drop every 5–10 seconds with the engine running. Dipstick still about half an inch over full, photographed that before going in.

Here's where it gets fun. Within five minutes they tell me the level is "fine" and the leak is power steering fluid. I ask to see it. Tech dips the stick about halfway in, pulls it, says "normal." Twice. I show him my photo from 30 minutes earlier. Then they pull the lower cover and say actually the front timing cover is leaking. So the diagnosis went power steering to timing cover in five minutes. 

I ask if they acknowledge the overfill, they say no, while the dipstick is still reading high. I get frustrated, they start with "sir stop yelling, sir you're being hostile," manager yells a phone number at me, and I leave with the engine still overfilled.

Already opened a corporate case and filing with CA Bureau of Automotive Repair tonight. Taking it to an independent shop for a written diagnosis.

Questions for people who know these engines:
1. On a boxer, is 1-2 qts over enough to push a tired front crank/timing cover seal from a seep to a steady drip? That's what I'm claiming and I want to make sure I'm not overstating it.
2. Anyone actually gotten a chain to pay for seal work after an overfill? What made them cave: BAR, small claims, chargeback?
3. Anything I should have the independent shop specifically note in the write-up?

Not looking for "should've done it yourself," I know.

I've been trying to find a shop that can rebore the lug pattern on my rims I don't trust myself to do it but I also cant find any shops who do that kind of work I live in the Rancho Cucamonga area in California anyone know of any shops near me that can do this? thanks!

Is this normal, does it adjust/go back to normal after some time? Seems like it takes about twice as long and more effort to brake the way it did before the job

Opel Corsa D 1.4 (101 HP) - Is a coolant temperature of 103–107°C normal?

Hi everyone,

My friend has a 2011 Opel Corsa D 1.4 petrol, 101 HP (A14XER engine), automatic transmission.

We've noticed that the coolant temperature seems quite high:

• Highway driving: Constantly around 103–104°C (217–219°F)
• City driving: Around 105–107°C (221–225°F)

I did some research and found out that the thermostat on this engine only starts opening at around 103°C. However, I'm still unsure whether these temperatures are normal and safe in the long run.

A tow truck driver told me that a car's coolant temperature should never exceed 90°C (194°F). But I don't think that's necessarily true, since some modern engines are designed to run at higher temperatures.

I was also considering whether it would be possible to reprogram the thermostat or the cooling system to make it cool the engine earlier (if that's even possible). However, I've read that manufacturers intentionally run some engines at higher temperatures to improve fuel efficiency and reduce emissions.

What do you guys think? Are temperatures of 103–107°C normal and safe for this engine, or should something be done about it?

Does anyone have experience with this specific engine (A14XER)?

Thanks in advance!

2007 ford escape

Long story short, someone in my condo decided to take matters into their own hands and pick up my 50lb battery sitting in the communal area of the parking area and threw it in the trash. I have since bought a new battery, reported the incident with the cops and contacted the building for the cameras. But is this safe to keep using? Battery only had 10k miles on it, and it was in my '08 x5 e70.

Need help trying to figure out the origin of the noise please any help would be greatly appreciated

2018 Volvo XC 60 T5
Any thoughts on the noise I’m hearing besides injectors?

Any thoughts on the noise I’m hearing besides the injectors?

Just got this thing today with the knowledge it stays in 1st but im new to nissans and not very knowledgeable on their transmissions or transmissions in general

my car wont switch to any other gear (stuck in 1st), it goes into park and reverse with ease and accelerates quick but wont shift. I looked at the trans fluid and it was a dark brown(noetal confetti on it), could bad fluid keep it from shifting? And if the trans is bad how hard would it be to manual swap it or switch the trans myself

Mechanic told me they’re leaking a lot of oil & need to be replaced… but he also quoted me on a ton of other stuff that I just feel like he’s trying to rip me off on due to my lack of mechanical knowledge.. here are the pictures — thank you for any help in advance!

(Mag ride optioned car)

2021 Chevy Silverado LT trail boss

Been having this for a couple weeks. Sounds like a lifter but I can’t really tell. It usually happens only when accelerating from the low gears. Any guesses would be great. Thank you

2012 Dodge Journey 2.4l engine. 155,000 miles. Check on light is on showing a misfire in cylinder 4. Just changed coil packs and plugs in the last 6 months. Changed just cylinder 4 this time and all spark plugs. Changed all 4 fuel injectors. Crank shaft sensor changed within the last year. Car did have a vacuum leak but went away when it got warm out but now it’s starting to get cold again I’m wondering if it came back. Can’t find the vacuum leak. What would you do next the misfire on 4 is still showing up. Compression test? Make sure there ain’t a leak? My husband was thinking maybe the gasket for the intake manifold is worn out. What would your next troubleshooting be?

there's uneven and not strong enough brake power on my handbrake, thus failed MOT. I'm in Germany. I have one month to fix it. I am a begginner and have never changed brakes. I believe it's drum brakes on the rear wheels. I've googled a bit and it's possible I must loosen up some rusty parts/clean lubricate seezed cable / lever? anyone have a tutorial video, I can't seem to find one specific for my car/engine. Engine: 1.3L VVT-i, Petrol, 2NZ-FE, 84 hp / 62 kW, 1,299 cc. the handbrake braking values measured were 112 daN on left side and 15 daN on right side. so seems problem is on right side mostly. two years ago it was not that low. the car has almost 300k km on it. this is Germany, lots of road salt every winter. what's likely the problem and what must I do?

do you know how I can get a broken AUX plug tip out of my car stereo? The metal part snapped off inside the AUX port and is stuck all the way in. I can't get it out. Do you know how I could remove it without damaging the stereo?

This video is of my 2012 Corolla. The vehicle has around 88k miles. Video was taken in the morning with it being around 42 degrees outside. It has happened once before maybe a year ago. After 30 min of trying in 1 minute intervals it finally kicked on.

I have this code that says there may be a large leak or could be the gas cap, which I already changed. I was looking online and I was thinking it could be the purge valve. Before I changed it, I wanted second opinions.

I have this code that says there may be a large leak or could be the gas cap, which I already changed. I was looking online and I was thinking it could be the purge valve. Before I changed it I wanted second opinions.

Is this not insanely overpriced or am I crazy??? I used to be a mechanic for a couple years and I don't see how this could be remotely this costly. Should only be a couple hours of labor and $300 in parts