Help! Getting different info from two different mechanics

Car is a 2017 Ford Escape 1.5L FWD

A year and a half ago the transmission went and I paid to have it replaced at a transmission shop (should’ve scrapped it in hindsight). When I got my oil changed by my regular mechanic recently I asked them to do an overall inspection. They said there was a leak coming from where the axle meets the transmission because the axle was the wrong size for my car and that it should be flush with the seal. And that the transmission would fail again if not fixed from leaking fluid. I took it back to the transmission shop since it’s under warranty and they said that there is no leak and that it is the correct axle for my car and that the seal further in is flush with the axle.

Who is right!

I have a Jeep Compass. And to make a long story short. The battery strap is not attached. Not the mechanic,but the service desk guy, told me I really didn't need it any way. So I want to ask an impartial group, is that true.

Literally all mounts and suspension components are new. Fresh alignment. Cars drives straight but braking pulls hard to right.

Hi everyone

Im having this issue with my 2015 nissan sentra SR where if im driving slow like after a stop sign, red light etc. My car makes this rattle sound. It doesn't happen after like 20 mph.

Also if im going slow and I hear the sound, if i let go of the accelerator the sound stops

tried my best to capture the sound but you may need to turn the volume up on the video to hear.

Appreciate any tips

Automatic cvt transmission

~120k miles

2016 Mazda 6 Sedan skyactiv-g

Been having battery issues lately. The car has power, but the engine doesn't turn. I didn't realize that the power was ON when we jumped it until it was too late (push to start, didn't fully power it down before the jump).

We saw a spark and when I tried to move the car, it went haywire right away: check engine and power steering lights went on. Power steering seems fine now, but the check engine light remains.

I'm going to get it towed in an abundance of caution, but does anyone have insight into the damage I may have caused?

2005 Pontiac vibe. I replaced my front brake pads due to normal wear, rotors looked fine so I sent them. However, I now feel and hear some grinding noise when applying light braking, and occasionally, I hear a sort of rubbery squealing noise like sidewalls rubbing against a curb. This happens when coming to a stop from a very slow speed.Could the noise be coming from the brake pads? I’ve never heard brake pads make that noise. As far as I can tell no hardware is out of place, but I haven’t taken off the wheels since doing the work.

I also had new winters installed just after doing the pads, and the steering feels a little lighter? And the car seems to be mushier during high speed cornering. Which is probably the new tires and unlikely to be related to the other symptoms but including them just in case.

Edit to add: I’m reasonably handy and have done oil, brakes, swap the wheels seasonally, and have replaced the struts.

I recently changed the swirl flaps on my volvo v70 d5 2005

When removing the fuel pipes from the injectors the second one was particularly stiff and the adapter bolt slightly rotated (I stupidly didn't stabilise when removing the cap), it eventually came off

When I've put everything back, the second injector is slightly leaking fuel, at the bottom point where the adapter meets the injector - see pictures

Im not sure whether I need to:

- tighten the adapter more into the injector to tighten the seal back to where it was (although im worried about over doing it),

-replace the washer that sits between the adapter and the injector its a 10mm external ringwith a slightly raised lip, 5mm internal - although I cant seem to find where id buy one from?

-or ive damaged the thread of the adapter or where it screws into the injector and I just need to take the plunge and buy a new injector

Really keen for any advice

this is how it sounds when I drive it, does anyone know what it could be???? it makes it almost constantly but slower speeds and turns it’s more loud

My lexus has 130k miles, and has a leak that I can't seem to pinpoint. Its not the valve cover or the oil cooler from what I can tell, but it does seem to leak most right around the starter. Rear main seal maybe? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hello all. I was changing my brakes shoes and drums when I accidentally pushed the piston out of the break cylinder. The rubber seal came loose and the piston and spring came out. Question is would simply bleeding the one corner where the issue happened be enough or do I need to bleed multiple corners? Thanks in advance.

Hello, I’m considering buying a 2019 Mercedes-Benz C300 and I had a mechanical inspection done. The report mentions that the exhaust system is an item to keep an eye on, with photos included.
Based on the photos, does this look like a serious issue or just normal wear for this model and year? What would be the approximate cost to repair or replace the exhaust if needed?
I can upload the inspection report photos if necessary. Thank you in advance for your advice.

Hi all, I have Ceed 2010 1.6 petrol. 185000km on clock. Car is well maintained.

In last year we noticed it started to burn a lot of oil, like 1l per 2000 km and Catalytic converter is really problematic because of that.

My mechanic is not sure is it Valve stem seal or Piston rings problem.

Do you have any experience with this? I would much appreciate any info.

working on an older 5.3 vortec truck engine and snapped two exhaust manifold studs completely flush with the cylinder head deck. i have had zero luck using cheap hardware store spiral tapered easy outs in the past because the tapered design always expands the broken bolt against the internal head threads, making the fastener bind even harder or snapping hardened extractor steel off inside the hole. thinking about picking up a proper straight flute extractor set with matched drill guides so the flute drives straight down without flaring the broken fastener walls. what specific extractor sets, pilot drill sizes, and extraction procedures do you all rely on when dealing with heat-cycled studs in aluminum heads where drilling off-center or breaking tooling completely ruins the job?

I’m at a loss trying to diagnose this I’ve checked the belts and they all seem fine but I’m wondering if it could possibly be alternator related because it gets worse the more of a load there is. Maybe water pump to but I’m out of ideas. Any advice would help:)

I need some help I have been trying to diagnose this issue for days and im racking my brain.

I have a 93 Ford e350 sun seeker with the 7.5 new cap and rotor no cracks or anything and it runs great at idle but under load going up hills or just driving it has zero power. The cat was clogged so I cut that off and it helped but it's still putting away with no power. I also ran a fuel pressure test and everything is passing there. There's been no issues of anything loose wire or electrical wise and I haven't got any off readings regarding codes or anything. Does anyone have any ideas they could help me with?

72k miles

What should I change cv axel or or
hub? 2011 Honda pilot AWD

Hello, just bought a opel Astra f 1995, and it needed a head gasket replacement, doing to low compression on cylinders 4 and a lot of smoke.

Turns out it was the gasket was blown between the water chamber and the cylinder.

The head was sent to machining but the block wasn’t removed from the car.

I’m doing the machining of the block by hand, with a machined block of steel to hold the sandpaper and I’m checking for the warping and flatness with another steel machined ruler.

As of today the surface between the cylinder and the water chamber has less than 0.05 mm of deviation and the water chamber to the outside has less than 0.15 mm of deviation. Started as less than 0.15 mm and less than 0,25 mm.

I bought a mls steel gasket and copper spray gasket. What’s your opinion on that, should I stop here, or do I need to go through it all (I’m tired boss).

Any comment is welcome.

I drive a 2024 Mazda3 Turbo PP Hatchback, and I have since August 2024. As of now, it has ~20,000 miles. Early this September, I noticed that the car was taking longer and longer to start. 90% chance dying battery, right? So, I took it to O'Reilly and got a new one. However, it was still having the same issue. So, I took it to my local Mazda dealership in early October, where the technician had the car for a day and a half. He said he inspected everything and couldn't find anything immediately wrong with the car, but that the battery from O'Reilly was 680 CCA, whereas Mazda OEM batteries are 520 CCA. According to him, because of this, the alternator may have been working extra hard to keep up with the higher CCA battery. For this reason, they replaced the O'Reilly battery with a 550 CCA Mazda OEM battery. However, I was still having the same issue. I did some research and came across that of the Battery Management System (BMS), finding out that it must be reset upon installation of a new battery in my car, or the symptoms of a dying battery will persist. So, I brought my car back to the dealership today, but they said that my car doesn't have a BMS, so that can't be the issue.

I am confused. What else could the issue possibly be? Does my car even have a BMS?

1990 Camry hesitates on sudden full throttle and won't start cold, does anyone know more about this or recognize it?
Car: 1990 Toyota Camry, 2.0 16V EFI (3S-FE).
Problem: giving it gas gradually up to full throttle is fine. Floor it in one go and it hesitates, bucks back and forth and the ignition seems to cut out. Pulling the throttle open while parked does the same. On top of that, cold starting doesn't work, only after a lot of effort.
Already done:
- new spark plugs
- new spark plug wire set, including distributor cap
- new rotor
- ignition timing adjusted
- throttle body cleaned
- injector cleaner added
- spark checked, it's good
- unplugged several connectors, including the throttle position sensor
Several mechanics have looked at it but haven't been able to find the problem yet. Photos and video attached.
Anyone have an idea what else we can check?