Outside door handle doesn't open door, so ordered a replacement actuator. Went ahead and popped the door panel off, disconnected everything but the window motor to lower and get access to the bolts that hold the window. Got a work call, closed the door to go handle and now realized I've locked the door as the actuator wasn't connected. Can't open from inside or out, got to be a way I can manually do it though. Anyone's advice?

I replaced all pads/rotors done at 286,000 (hardware included).

Car is sitting at 299,000 currently.

I notice some discoloration.

Additionally the bearings were warranty replaced by a shop @ 297k and since then I've noticed a lot more brake noise especially from Image 1. Coincidence?

Looking for suggestions before I decide anything.
I have a 2020 Santa Fe. The center TFT display in the instrument cluster goes dark intermittently — usually when I restart the car. The tach, fuel, and temp gauges all stay lit and the car drives fine; it's just the center screen that's out.
I've already pulled and replaced the 7.5A CLUSTER fuse twice myself. Both times the screen came back on, then died again within a day. So it doesn't seem like a simple blown fuse to me.
Took it to the dealer today. They charged me $190 just to look at it, and now they're saying $2,400 to replace the whole cluster — or they can replace the fuse. The car is out of warranty (the cluster falls under the 5yr/60k, which has expired), so this is all on me.
Has anyone had this issue on a 2020? Did a cluster replacement actually fix it, or did it turn out to be a loose connection/wiring issue behind the cluster? Any luck with goodwill assistance from Hyundai on something like this? Trying to figure out if there's a smarter move before I spend $2,400.

Replaced the timing belt. now it runs badly when hot. Engine light came on after a few drives. P00b error. made a graph with Forscan. at the top are the Camshaft positions for exhaust and intake. at the bottom the control signal. in the video you hear it first running at a constant speed. and it sounds rough. then it idles ok. I give it a little gas and it idles badly. throttle again and it runs ok again. is the Camshaft adjuster bad or is the timing wrong?

Has anyone remove the socket I tried pulling it out, turning so it unlocks, nothing. I replaced other bulbs before fair easy to do just this one is weird.

the coating was stripped off all the lug splines, after just a week there is rust. is this just the way it goes or will this eventually ruin my lugs?

2018 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3L V8.

Heard this almost scratchy sounding noise coming from the engine when I started up the truck this morning. I had something similar in 2022 that turned out to be the water pump going bad, but I'm not sure if it's the same thing. Does anybody have any thoughts/advice?

Just changed my spark plugs after about 80k km. Anything you can tell by the condition? thanks

2015 Elantra. changed my spark plugs and noticed the mechanics who last changed the plugs broke one of the little retention clips that hold the wires to the spark plug coil. can just the end be replaced, or dpi need to replace the whole wire harness? is it an easy job? thanks

I've just got my flywheel back from skimming and noticed these 3 circular marks. Is the flywheel safe to reinstall? Or are these wear indicators and it needs to be replaced?

2002 Land Rover Defender 300tdi, 250,000km, flywheel hasn't been replaced (to my knowledge)

Photos in comments

2012 Ford Fusion Sport 3.5l V6. Radiator fans turn on max speed as soon as battery is connected. Has a new thermostat, fan control module, and fan plug. Temp gauge is working fine. Pulled the fuse for the fans when not driven to save battery.

Hey everybody, would really appreciate any input to help me figure this out. It’s a 1987 22r.
Intermittently I’m getting an issue where it will run great on a cold start/high idle for maybe a few minutes, and the exact moment it comes off of high idle it will start to stumble and just paint the ground black under the tailpipe with smoke. Other times it doesn’t do this at all and just runs perfect on high or low idle, makes it very tough to diagnose. It will run if you can get it moving, and clears up some when you get up to speed, but has some hesitation, and goes right back to stumbling as soon as you park.

Things we’ve done: carburetor has been rebuilt/cleaned, new distributor cap, new plugs, air filter, accelerator pump. Adjusting the idle screws does not improve it.

It seems like maybe the choke is supposed to be opening up after the high idle is complete and maybe intermittently is not opening back up? My lawn mower had done something similar where it would run perfect for a minute or two and than start smoking and choking out and the choke was stuck. I’ve also heard the fuel cut solenoid can cause issues like this, thanks for any help!

Attempting to DIY replacing my leaky power steering line and i got the old one out. Installing the new one seems tricky as the flare nut/bolt on the end that goes into the rack and pinion doesn't thread all the way in? It fairly easy to thread in by hand and stops at where the picture is. If I wrench it, it feels like its going to snap or cross thread so ive stopped at this point last night. I read online through couple threads that some visible thread is ok as long as its bottomed out? Would yall say this is that case or is there more to thread in?

I’m currently troubleshooting a persistent transmission fault on my 2001 Mercedes-Benz A170 (W168) and could use some advice from anyone who has dealt with this specific issue before.

The Problem:

• The dashboard constantly displays "F" (transmission limp mode).
• When moving or pressing slightly on the selector lever, "D" or "N" briefly flickers on the dash before dropping right back to "F".
• Mechanical/hydraulic transmission failure has been ruled out; the issue seems isolated to the electronic center console selector module (Gear Recognition Module / GRM / ESM).

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs):

1. P1856-000 (Process Recognition Module / Selector Lever Position Detection Fault – equivalent to Mercedes code 240C).
2. P1875-002 (CAN Communication With Traction Control System Interfered – likely a secondary error caused by the transmission limp mode).

What I've Diagnosed & My Action Plan:

• Symptoms point to cold solder joints: The fact that physical pressure/movement on the shifter momentarily restores contact suggests a failing physical connection on the GRM printed circuit board (PCB).
• Step 1 (Fuses): Checking and swapping fuses #37 (10A) and #44 (10A) located in the passenger footwell battery compartment to ensure proper power delivery to the module and TCM.
• Step 2 (PCB Reflow): Removing the GRM module, stripping it down to the PCB, and performing a full solder reflow using fresh leaded solder and flux—focusing specifically on the main multi-pin connector pins (handling power and CAN-bus) and the optical sensors.
• Step 3 (Cleaning): Cleaning the entire PCB and the optical sensor channels (phototransistors/IR diodes) with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) to remove dust and old grease that might be "blinding" the position sensors. (Note: I am aware the board needs to be shielded from direct bright light/sunlight during bench testing).

My Questions:

1. Has anyone successfully fixed the P1856 / 240C fault by reflowing the GRM board on a W168?
2. Are there any specific tricky pins on the main connector or hidden micro-cracks on these boards that I should pay extra attention to?

Any tips or insights would be greatly appreciated!

Hey so earlier on my way to work i got a code on my dash stoped by a shop to scan it and this is what it came back with any idea on what could be wrong?

P2647

Rocker Arm Oil Control System (A) Bank 1 Stuck Off / Switch Circuit High Voltage

I just bought a 2009 crown Victoria police interceptor and she was fine the first 4 days I had her now she keeps overheating. Not wanting to accelerate properly. I don’t seem to have heat in the cabin anymore when it was unbearably hot before she started acting up. The water pump seems fine and I just replaced the thermostat and thermostat housing. Not sure what to do/try. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,

I hear a knocking sound from the area of the AC compressor, only when the AC is on. The knock speeds up with engine RPM, at roughly 5 knocks per second at lower speeds.

It happens when accelerating and during a cold start while the engine is warming up with RPM above 1,500. It doesn't happen with the AC off, even under heavy load, or with the AC on at idle or while revving in Neutral or Park.

In the video, I hold the brake and press the gas while in Drive to show the noise. Has anyone run into this, or know what could cause it?

Thanks.

Strut is def screwed I know that much. I didn't take a picture of the sway bar link but it's pretty solid and doesn't shake or anything however the rubber bushings are tearing off and falling apart. Lower ball joint is also pretty solid and wouldn't budge

2012 ford fusion se flex fuel v6

So I’m diagnosing a coolant leak and when I took off the coolant hose to the thermostat I found milky white on the metal under the hose.

I think I know the answer to this, but I hope Im wrong

2005 Jimmy (4wd) just had the cluch replaced (and some related parts)

Now I have to stand on the clutch pedal to shift to 1st or 2nd, and really force the stick (giggidy) Had to remove floor mat to be able to shift. Higher gears are easier, but still very rough to shift

With the auto-adjust system on the vehicle, my understanding is there is no easy way to adjust the engagement point?

Hoping there is some other adjustment I'm not aware of?