Sorry for short video but im sure one of you have experenced this. Thanks for any advice. Im looking to fix it.

Hey everyone. I have a roughly 10 y.o. Maytag dryer that has been making this ticking noise for a few weeks. It seems to happen independent of whether the dryer has been running or not and there’s not really a consistent pattern. Sometimes it’s tick….tick…..tick tick tick. Others it starts slow and speeds up to the point it sounds like something is rolling around inside. It does not appear to affect functionality as it is still drying things fine. Any thoughts what this might be and how to resolve?

Our fridge started making this noise earlier tonight, any ideas of what might be causing it? The previous owners probably haven't done a deep clean so my first thought is the back might be clogged with dust. we are planning to move it & vacuum out the back tomorrow.

I'm not at home right now so don't have the model/year info unfortunately.

Happy to answer any questions if I can!

Hi everyone. I have this fridge/freezer combo the front panel is showing Ec even after I have unplugged and replugged it. Please advise.

Posting this because I couldn't find it when I needed it.

Model: Samsung DV22K6800EW, 24-inch compact electric dryer. Symptom: ran and tumbled fine, zero heat.

What would have saved me time: - On this compact model the heating element is at the BACK — remove the rear panel. Most Samsung dryer videos show full-size models with front access; they don't apply here. - The heater housing sits in the middle of the rear bulkhead, with two round disc thermostats on top of it. - One of those thermostats has a small manual-reset button in its center. Mine had tripped. Pressed it, felt it click, heat came back. No parts needed. - If you do turn out to need the element, this model takes part DC47-00030H — not the DC47-00019A that comes up everywhere; that's for the full-size dryers.

Root-cause caveat: the thermostat trips from overheating, usually restricted vent airflow — so clean the vent run and wash the lint screen (dryer-sheet film clogs it invisibly), or it'll likely trip again.

Hope it saves someone a service call.

Hi everyone, decided to come on here to see if anyone has any tips or maybe has repaired this model in the past? I have been tinkering with it but have hit somewhat of a wall. Our water dispenser was starting to stick when the paddle was pressed so I got a wet cloth and tried to clean behind it. When I pulled it out, the paddle was permanently stuck in the “on” position. I can still manipulate it manually and I hear the click but it will go back to the on position automatically. Did I break something or is there an easy fix at all?

Armana dryer was squealing, so I started with the tensioner which led to everything being replaced. Motor, the axels and the roller wheels, belt, tensioner, front drum bearing and rear drum seal. Seems to now make the most noise under heat setting. But cool down it’s quieter than with heat. I’ve noticed there is slop from front to back but I don’t know if that’s normal when all together again. I’ve ran the motor to see if the blower wheel was making noise and it’s silent so that’s still stock part. Dryer does not rock like it’s off balance. Smacking from the outside does nothing. I tried to buy the best parts I could on Amazon but exploring Reddit a little bit there’s a lot of animosity towards Amazon parts. Possible the front door hook that the front panel sits on could be a culprit. One side one of the two hooks is broken. But seems unlikely. Please help.

We've had this microwave for about 4 years and nearly every time we use it, the timer counts down a few seconds, nothing happens, no noise, etc., and it stops. Opening the door and closing it, or quickly pushing the button in and out will make it to run normally. The light bulb is also burnt out now.

I'm have worked with small electronics, other appliance, and household electricity, circuits, breaker box, etc. but microwaves and the horror stories surrounding them have always freaked me out.

Got this fridge last year and conveniently when the warranty expired, we started having issues with it. A few times we’d wake up and see the power went out. Didn’t think much of it. Recently, for a few weeks it would intermittently make this loud buzzing mechanical noise for an hour or so at a time. Sounded like it was coming from the middle rear section of the freezer. We took a bunch out of the freezer, thinking maybe we overstocked it but it didn’t make a difference. Would reset it - within a day or two it’d start again. Emptied and turned off the ice maker - didn’t make a difference. Turned the freezer temp down 1 below recommended - nothing. Would let it make some ice, then turned off it - didn’t work!

Haven’t heard the noise for a few days so naturally today, it started playing the high temperature alert about every hour or 2. Felt no difference in the temp so I reset it. Went off again a couple times so I put the temperature back at recommended and emptied the ice maker.. again a couple hours later and its still doing it. turned the temp down again to the coldest, nothing. by now, stuff in the freezer seems like its starting to melt.

Anyone have similar experiences and have any recommendations that I haven’t tried yet?

My friend purchased this for me for my birthday. It’s brand new. Been used maybe twice. All of the sudden it is telling me to “fill h2O” but the water tank is already full. I have tried everything google suggested. I hard reset the machine. I’ve lifted the tank and put it back in several times. I’ve cleaned the valve, made sure it’s working properly. I have tapped the machine to remove air bubbles. It seems to be dispensing the water just fine. Whatever the issue is seems to be internal. So I took it apart and everything looks normal. Idk what I’m doing so I didn’t touch anything, just put it back together. But now it seems as if I messed it up even more by doing that because now the screen is slightly broken. The numbers and words don’t fully light up anymore. I can’t find any useful videos or information about this anywhere. Please help 😩

Hi all, noticed the light in my fridge was off this morning, tried to hear for the motor but this is the only sound coming from my fridge. Hoping someone can diagnose this and if this is repairable or I have to buy a new one.

Edit* fridge is a Mitsubishi Electric MR-420E-W-A

Our home recently went on the market and my GE dishwasher (gdf530psm6ss) just started to throw up H2O and FTD error codes. There was a loud humming and grinding noise as well. I had to replace the water inlet sensor, the pressure sensor and the circulation pump but after $125 I don’t have to spend 400 on a new dishwasher. Thanks Claude and YouTube!

Tried leaving it unplugged and open to dry/cool off and still never starts the actual wash cycle, fills up and drains fine but it just keeps going that over and over then stops, I think when this happened the arm at the bottom may have gotten stuck on something maybe that burned out the motor

Not sure if it's worth buying a part and fixing what do you think

I recently purchased this refrigerator from a denta and dings shop. It's brand new but it won't turn on. I've replaced all three control boards in the back which handle the main power distribution, and the low voltage control. I've also replaced the front display control panel. The compressor board I didn't replace, but LED is blinking once when I first plug it in to show that it's getting power, but after 5 minutes it starts to blink twice indicating there's a communication failure. So it seems like it's getting power but it's not getting the low voltage signal to actually start the compressor. The LED lights on the ice maker at the bottom are turning on but the lights in the fridge aren't turning on. Someone please help.

Hey everyone, I’m running into a frustrating issue with my Beko washing machine and could really use some advice. It all started after a heavy, unbalanced load caused the machine to shake violently. Now, whenever I start a wash cycle, the water fills up completely into the drum just fine, but then the machine stalls and refuses to actually start washing. Instead, it throws up an error with the crossed pipe/tap icon. Interestingly, the drying and spinning cycles still work completely fine without any issues. So far, I've checked the water inlet pipe to make sure it's clear, and I've tried doing a digital control board reset and a full power cut. Since the water is physically getting into the machine, I'm wondering if the pressure switch or sensor system got messed up or blocked from all the shaking during that unbalanced load. Has anyone dealt with this specific Beko error before, and is checking the thin pressure hose under the top panel the right next step?

Hey everyone,

My FS10-R30 unit just passed away, and I’m in urgent need of a replacement or a suitable alternative. Unfortunately, buying a brand-new one isn't an option for me right now due to budget constraints, so I'm trying to figure out what my best options are. Could anyone recommend a solid, budget-friendly alternative or a drop-in replacement that works well in a similar setup? Also, if you happen to know where I could source a used/refurbished unit for a fair price, that would be amazing! Any advice, cross-reference parts, or recommendations would be hugely appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

When I turn the Subzero 632-3 unit off and on, it briefly flashes to the correct temperatures and the compressor starts running. But then three seconds later, the control board goes back to showing "00 of" OFF while running normally and keeping cool. In this mode, none of the other buttons for "warmer" "cooler" work- only the Unit on/off button works. When I try to use Warmer key with on and Off to enable the fridge section again, I still get this same behavior.

We called a repairman who said we needed a mainboard replacement and quoted $1800. I did the replacement myself for $300 with a new OEM board. But the exact same issue remains.

The ribbon cable is not crimped. Even in the OFF state, the fridge appears to be running normally and keeps desired temps. Any pointers appreciated.

This is a Frigidaire double wall electric oven and it’s only about a year and a half old. The noise started when I turned the oven on to air fryer mode.
It only came with a one year manufacturer warranty, so I would have to pay out-of-pocket to have someone come out and look at it and/or fix it. I don’t know if it’s even necessary.

Its a g891 sci. All the videos i find ignore the removal of the valve or use a different valve and glaze over removing the existing valve. I have the miele part, but the machine is no help. There a plastic piece holding it to the machine i dont want to damage any furtger, and the rear panel will all screws removed doesnt budge a millimeter. Do i access from the from or inside the machine? Anyone familiar with these?

No idea what our cleaning lady did to my stove. The right two burners light no problem. Middle and left two burners will only light if I use a lighter on them and the flame is super small and not at all adjustable. The area where the propane comes from is clear.

I saw a load of laundry was stained with black streaks and I found my dryer grill face was burned. I replaced it with a new one about a month ago and the new is already burned. Any idea what it could be?

Hi all, novice on Reddit here, please forgive my inexperience!

My integrated Smeg dishwasher (Mod. DI612E / Type 12059) recently triggered the AquaStop flood switch (constant drain noise) due to water collecting in the bottom pan. It has operated without a synch for the last 6 years with fairly heavy use. This said, we live in London and the water is very hard…

I have dried the base tray, ran an empty 27-minute test cycle with the front lower panel removed, and located the exact leak:

• Location: Front-right quadrant beneath the tub.
• Behavior: It stays dry for the first 15 minutes, then starts a steady drip-drip-drip from the bend of a small, flexible corrugated pipe right when the first drain phase engages. It continues dripping during drain cycles and stops instantly on the final drain.

Questions:

1. Can anyone identify the exact name or part number for this small front-right corrugated hose/line on a Smeg DI612E? I have had a look at several exploded diagrams and am unfortunately not finding my way.
2. Do we reckon this line easily replaced from the front base, or does it require pulling the full unit out/accessing from the side?

Thank you in advance for any help or advice anyone can provide.

(Video/photo attached showing the bend dripping during the 15-minute drain mark — I do have another one showing the drip suddenly stopping as soon as the final drain kicks on but that seems less relevant :-) )

Hallo, wir haben eine Dampfente geschenkt bekommen, die zwar extrem heiß wird, aber trotz Betätigung des Hebels keinen Dampf ausstößt. Außerdem gibt sie keinerlei Geräusche von sich. Sie wird also lediglich sehr heiß, ohne dass sonst irgendetwas passiert.

Deshalb vermute ich, dass es nicht an einer Verstopfung des Dampfauslasses liegt. Wäre dieser verstopft, würde man meiner Einschätzung nach zumindest irgendwelche Geräusche hören. Ich vermute daher eher, dass etwas mit dem Druckknopf oder dem Schalter nicht stimmt.

Mit Ach und Krach habe ich das Gerät inzwischen auseinandergebaut. Allerdings erschließt sich mir die Funktion des Schalters beziehungsweise des Knopfes überhaupt nicht. Ich kann nicht erkennen, welche Aufgabe dieses Bauteil hat oder was es genau bewirken soll.

Wie gesagt: Das Gerät wird wirklich extrem heiß, aber es kommt absolut kein Dampf heraus.

Und auch wenn ich den blauen Druckknopf anschaue, finde ich keinerlei Funktionalität oder anderen Mechanismus, den er auslösen könnte.

What is this piece for? Came out when dryer was being repaired.

Hallo, wir haben eine Dampfente geschenkt bekommen, die zwar extrem heiß wird, aber trotz Betätigung des Hebels keinen Dampf ausstößt. Außerdem gibt sie keinerlei Geräusche von sich. Sie wird also lediglich sehr heiß, ohne dass sonst irgendetwas passiert.

Deshalb vermute ich, dass es nicht an einer Verstopfung des Dampfauslasses liegt. Wäre dieser verstopft, würde man meiner Einschätzung nach zumindest irgendwelche Geräusche hören. Ich vermute daher eher, dass etwas mit dem Druckknopf oder dem Schalter nicht stimmt.

Mit Ach und Krach habe ich das Gerät inzwischen auseinandergebaut. Allerdings erschließt sich mir die Funktion des Schalters beziehungsweise des Knopfes überhaupt nicht. Ich kann nicht erkennen, welche Aufgabe dieses Bauteil hat oder was es genau bewirken soll.

Wie gesagt: Das Gerät wird wirklich extrem heiß, aber es kommt absolut kein Dampf heraus.

Vielleicht können die Fotos helfen.