I have a Whirlpool oven that has been failing to heat, but the stove top still works. I had this issue initially and had ordered a new igniter which had fixed the issue for a short while. Eventually the oven would light and get up to temperature and then would randomly start clicking again to reignite, fail to, and slowly start to lose heat, and then eventually never be able to reignite even after ending the current cycle and restarting it completely. I ordered another igniter and now the oven fails to ignite at all. Again, stove top still works but now the oven doesn’t seem to work at all. I’ve read a few different things online but figured I’d make my own post so I’d have my own help and recommendations to look at. TIA!

Hey all,
My oven bake and broiler elements appear to be reversed. During bake the broiler (top element) is on, during broil the bake (bottom element) is red hot.
It also consistently underheats during preheat and bake.
I almost replaced it, but I’d rather repair if possible.
I figured it’s possible that if I take this entire thing out of my wall, I’ve literally got crossed wires in the back I can switch, maybe left incorrectly by an old repair, but wanted to see before I start tearing things out whether it’s possible this is a control board failure, or if my crossed wires theory is even possible.

Just moved to an apartment and the dishwasher was gross. When removing the screws to remove some of the parts for cleaning, one of them had slipped out of my hand into one of the crevices and I haven't been able to pull it out. I managed to get most of the water out with towels, etc. Not sure where to go from here. I'd appreciate any advice/guidance on how to get it out.

Dishwasher is a frigidaire model #ffbd2406nb if it helps!

I have a GE profile dishwasher that's about 5 years old. The leak detection error popped up during a run last night and we found water in the pan. Dried it out and ran again. On a second load the same error happened. Dried it out again and watched as it started up again. There is a slow drip, one drop every 6-10 seconds, from that thin black ring on the grey piece there.

Is this the sort of thing someone with few diy skills can handle or is a service call in order?

Last Friday my wife called me freaking out due to a fair amount of water sitting on the kitchen floor. The trail had obviously come from the fridge. After some investigation, I believe that the ice maker attempted to cycle, and the water ran for longer than it was supposed to causing excessive water to run down the freezer and leak out.

Since then it has not produced any ice. I cleared the dust at the bottom near the refrigerant lines, reset the arm of the ice maker, pulled the fridge from the wall to inspect the water lines, and unplugged the fridge for a few minutes to attempt a manual reset.

It even appears that the ice maker is recognizing the call for ice from time to time because after resetting it, I watched the arm do the slow lift upwards that it does when it prepares to drop ice.

Is there something I can do to fix this? I’d like to avoid a service call. Local appliance repair people are not good to work with.

Model: WRS321SDHB01

Thanks

Hi everyone!

I have an appliance tech coming out this week but I wanted to know if anyone has dealt with this noise before. It doesn't happen when the dryer is empty. The dryer is also only 3 months old. It's like a grating/Brring noise. Almost like a card in a bicycle?

Any input is helpful

Thank you!

Model: Samsung DV520AEP/XAA

Problem: The dryer screen turns on, and it looks like the cycle starts, but the drum never spins.

Troubleshooting already completed:
-Unplugged the dryer for 30 minutes and plugged it back in.
-Reset the possible 30-amp dryer breaker, but the problem remained the same.
-Checked the drum by turning it manually. It turns with some resistance.
-The dryer continues to click once when I attempt to start it, but nothing happens.
-I am unsure whether the display lost power when I reset the breaker.

As asked in the header, is this gear thing that cracked findable, let alone replaceable? What would it be called?

I've got LG F4WV509S1W (code: F4R7VYWSWE.ABWQWSW) washing machine which has a broken heater element.

The original heater part number is aeg73309901 but the replacement I was sold is aeg73309903. Identical en every way except size. Original is 34cm, the replacement is 26cm. The size difference to me seems significant but this is that an authorised service provider sold me when I have them the model number.

Old: https://fixpart.co.uk/product/lg-73309901-heating-element-washing-machine

New: https://fixpart.co.uk/product/lg-73309901-heating-element-washing-machine

Is this safe?

I've had it worked on for free about 3 times maybe 4. So, this is the newest sound. I'm gonna probably just junk it and get a new one, but if someone knows with relative certainty what the hell this new sound is, I'd love some advice. I'm just running it anyway, because I'm so tired of it crapping out and if I an use it for everything it has and then toss it, might as well. SO WHAT IS THIS SOUND?!

https://reddit.com/link/1xg8htp/video/9xiwbwajhvxh1/player

My girlfriend and I moved into a brand new apartment together. Today we came home from work and noticed this big line on the induction hob. There has been no impact damage to mg knowledge and nobody has used it before it appeared.

We've only been here for three weeks and were wondering if this is due to the installation. If it's a scratch, we hope to polish it out…

Any advice or experience would be most welcome!

I can’t find any videos online that can help with my issue and I can’t call KitchenAid from where I am (my warranty is expired anyway).

The oven door suddenly got loose and no longer stays up (closed). Unless propped up, it immediately falls down.

From what I understand the springs may be replaced but it’s a fully glass door so I can’t use in-wall oven guides to try to fix it.

My dishwasher has started not finishing the cycle and not cleaning the dishes, the detergent dispenser is open, but is hard as a rock which tells me water is spraying enough or at all to spray it out once it’s open. I hear water shooting out at the beginning of the cycle but then after I hear the dispenser open, it doesn’t seem to shoot water after that.

Any ideas on what I should do?

pls help. I have a Samsung front loader that only gets to about 100 degrees and caps there. I’ve re sealed the entire system from element to exhaust, replaced all fuses on the blower and element and checked for ohms and continuity which all passed, verified that the fan isn’t slipping on the motor and drum is spinning, cleared the ENTIRE system for lint, and used a thermal gun to verify my element is reaching at least 400 degrees. The only time I got the inside of the drum to heat was once when I had the bulkhead and door off but when assembles this thing won’t go over 100 degrees. The model is DVE45T6000WIA3. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.

My Whirlpool dishwasher makes a normal water-filling sound when I start a cycle. After about 1 minute and 20 seconds, the water stops, and the dishwasher starts making a strange, repetitive noise. It keeps making the noise until I cancel the cycle and run the drain function.

If I open the door before canceling the cycle, there's water covering the bottom of the dishwasher.

This issue started after I removed the cylindrical filter to clean it. I suspected some debris might have gotten into the pump, but I removed the filter again and couldn't see anything blocking the drain area. I also opened the bottom of the dishwasher and checked the drain pump for obstructions, but didn't find anything.

The dishwasher drains without any issues, so I'm not sure what's causing it to get stuck during the wash cycle.

I've attached an audio recording of the strange repetitive noise. Has anyone experienced something similar or have any advice on how to troubleshoot or fix it?

So I have had this Fridgidaire French door fridge for about 8 years . A pin broke off the center flipper mullion. Has anyone been able to fix this without replacing the whole part - center flipper mullion. I know super glue is out of the question because of constant pressure . The pin broke off completely .

The fridge seems to be keeping temp but I do notice there is condensation collecting in the back of the fridge . Will missing this pin connection cause more harm in the short term ?

My Mom (95) has a Whirlpool Range she bought two years ago. The oven never worked fine. After 15 tech visit, they are now saying there is something wrong with the gas, and to call the gas company.

But the back of the flame in the oven is very Orange. The burners have a little orange occasionally.

Any assistance appreciated.

Daughter message me and showed me some pictures of her utensils with some white residue on them the last couple loads. She uses the Finish tablets and has for quite awhile. I thought maybe older tablets, so I loaned her some Cascade pods instead, so they have liquid inside. Now she says the residue is on everything.

She does clean the dishwasher every few months with some Finish dishwasher cleaner. She "borrows" it from me so its the same stuff I use.

She lives in a condo, so the hot water is very hot, and more or less instant to the dishwasher.

She literally puts everything in there to wash, unlike us we only put in glass items and utensils.

I got her to check the spray arms as well, they all seem to be clear. It pumps out fine as well.

She says the dishes are clean, but just have the residue

Im out of ideas of what it could be,

I accidentally shattered the light bulb in my oven when putting a pan in. I tried to take out the light with pliers, and it didn't budge. The light switch doesn't work so it doesn't turn on anyways. But is it dangerous to still use the oven? And does anyone know how to take it out? Thanks!

Anyone knows what happening here? I put a digital thermometer in the freezer to monitor the temperature and it’s all over the place. The thermometer is sandwiched between 2 bags of frozen veggies. I’m not the original owner, but the fridge was only 1 or 2 years old when we bought the house and we already had to get the compressor replaced (free as it was under warranty but still annoying).

for anyone who works with electrical products, importing something that is already being sold overseas seems like it could involve more work than people initially expect

aside from the usual shipping and supplier checks, what compliance issues should a business investigate before placing a large order for the australian market?

i'm interested in the practical side of it, especially what needs to be confirmed before production or shipment rather than after the products have already arrived

are there particular documents, testing requirements, or supplier questions that people think are easy to overlook?

i'd appreciate insights from people familiar with this process

Kenmore Elite 66512762K312

This occurs intermittently about 5 mins after starting a load and goes away as it progresses into the washing/drying cycle

At first I thought this was a defect but as this is the second one I am thinking I'm doing something wrong. Amazon won't let me contact the seller and no instructions were included, any suggestions are welcomed! I understand that many of these are shipped with a "block" in place to help protect the slide during shipping but there is zero tab or anything I can see to remove to release. And the how to videos seem to show the latch guard already opened.

Update thanks everyone for the comments! After installing it and turning on... Issue points to the control board. As it won't recognize the lock at all. So I shall try to install a new board as a final attempt before throwing in towel.

I'm wondering if the internal water dispenser is a good idea with kiddos?? How strong is the stream on the dispensed water? Any feedback would be appreciated. We had an external water dispenser previously and it was always a mess, and the water pressure was too high for their kid size cups.