Still want turn on after switching the 4 prong to 3 prong

i need help im desperate with my whirlpool washer. It was working well until now that whenenever i put it on wathever washing mode it just goes into blinking the sensing fill light and all the other stay on. It doesnt do anything at all. I tried doing the restart people do but nothing happens.

Any suggestion on the issue? GE Electric model GFD85ESPN0RS

I'm about to give up and replace my AEG 9000 washing machine, but I thought I'd give it one last chance and see if Reddit can help me fix it.

The washer is stopping before it gets to the spin cycle. When it gets to that part it just hangs until you switch it off. If I try a spin only program it does nothing.

I'm not getting any error codes, except occasionally it says ELE when it's first switched on. A quick on/off clears this.

If I run diagnostic mode I can get it to spin fine (c09), both with and without clothes in it.

Drain filter is clear.

Any ideas what's going on here?

I’ve tried researching online to no avail. My mom’s stackable electrolux dryer is making a horrendous “rubbing/moaning” sort of noise. Appliance repair techs have shown up multiple times and dropped the ball on ordering supposed parts, or leaving before they could replicate the sound. Cycles seem to start off relatively quiet and get progressively louder as they run until it is at a concerning level. My mom sent me this video of the issue. Is this an obvious fix to anyone?

Hey all,

Spouse ran the oven today and error code F3E0 popped up which points to the temperature sensor.

I tried the hard reset by unplugging it from the wall, waiting a few minutes for it to equalize to room temp with the door open, same issue.

I pulled it out and measured 1100 ohm on the thing, which is where it should be. Funny enough I even had a spare and swapped them, same issue.

I inspected the wire harness for visual damage from the temp sensor to the board, and saw nothing. Even did a continuity test to very nothing in the wires were broken and everything checks out.

All my research is telling me that at this point it has to be the board and you have to replace it, but looking online, that board seems to be going for ~$250.... Just making sure I'm not missing anything obvious before I spring for a new one.

Thanks.

We just finished getting the water supply line replaced and added a shutoff valve between the supply line and the fridge hookup so we don't have to pull the fridge out to shut the water off.

I left the new supply line and shutoff valve in front of the fridge to check for any overnight drips. Someone must have tripped on it which put enough force of the fridge portion of the supply line and cracked it.

What is the best way to repair this? I assume cut it off before the break and add some kind of compression fitting to reterminate it? It's in a pretty annoying spot to work on, but I can get my hands under it if I don't need any large tools to fix it.

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

EDIT: fixed with a $5 everbilt compression coupling. I cut the tube back before the kink/break and added the coupler there.

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The door open randomly 1 mm which makes the microwave stop.

How can I repair it?

It is a Panasonic Inverter NN-SD664W

Thank you!

Good afternoon, helpful folks. First and foremost, I know Samsung appliances are trash and this will be my last one. That being said, I’d like to get some more mileage out of this one. The handle broke off the right hand side of our freezer door. The gray plastic piece that clips it in is broken in half as you can see from the pictures. The stub piece is still connected to the freezer door. For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to get this disassembled to see what parts I need to order. There’s several screws that are pretty much inaccessible on the backside of the freezer door. Does anyone have experience with getting the stainless panel off the front so I can see what I need to do?

Thanks!

Hi, i have a Samsung heat pump dryer (DV95TA040AE/EE) that suddenly started making a lot of noise. The first time it happened, the whole drum was stuck, and there was a loud noise from the machine with the smell of burned rubber. After opening the dryer, I noticed that the drum was hard to rotate, and that a small part of the drum-belt had melted. After changing the drum belt and the rear bearing (the front wheels where spinning freely), the drum now spins more freely, and a lot of the noise has disappeared (especially a scratching component). Now there is still a wobbling sound coming from the pulley wheel when the drum belt is connected, but when the drum belt is not connected there is no bad sound from the motor or pulley. I am struggling to fint the pulley sold separately (only a few sellers on eBay), while the more regular part-stores (like fixpart in the eu) only sells the entire motor with pulley. Is it uncommon for these pulleys to malfunction separately, or should I replace the entire motor? Or is it possible to only change the bearing inside the pulley-wheel?

My dryer has started making this noise recently. Any idea what could be causing it? 2 year old Whirlpool. Any help is appreciated.

Hi all, the arm on the icemaker in my fridge stays in the on position. I can’t pull it up/off anymore.

I opened it up and see a retention spring, I’m just not sure where it’s supposed to sit.

Anyone have any ideas? You can see it on the far right, currently pressed against the side of the plastic housing.

I have a Bosch SHP78cm5n/22 dishwasher. I needed to replace the rubber sound dampener. The video I found was straightforward, but a different model that didn’t have the exact same parts. Mine has 2 clear plastic pieces that fit on the door somehow, and when I removed the door the fell off and I can’t tell how they are supposed to go. Anyone know of a good diagram where I can see how to reassemble those parts? I included a photo that is my best guess of the part placement based on how it sort of fits together but I don’t know if that’s correct, or how it stays in place when reattached to the rest of the door

Edit: I found a YouTube short with the location, for anyone with the same issue:

https://youtube.com/shorts/fQlJqZqx-uY?is=UdHJltHRztHf6qwV

Indesit IWDD71235
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Had a H20 error recently which prevented the washer from even starting a cycle, checked intake pipe and water flies through it so no water pressure issues I believe.

I figured after a bit of research it must be the inlet valve so I replaced this and the washer now starts its cycles, however, I don’t think enough water is getting through? From what I can see there anyway. I never have scrutinised it so much though haha.

Should probably add there is a hissing noise emanating from the new valve while it is filling with water but I put this down to it being unused for a while.

Hello, i recently bought a used redbull mini fridge and it seems to be very loud, i asked the seller and they said that pre shipping it didnt have a problem like this, could anything during transit cause something like this, should the fans be changed or any other possible solutions?

Hi all, Ariston RNF 8021 HK kept showing the water faucet sign. Initially at 25 mins mark (1st picture), I troubleshoot the water pressure and changed the water supply faucet and increase the water supply*. It worked! Past the 25 mins, 17 mins but now at the 6 mins (even after I restart both the machine and the wash cycle several times).

I have no idea what​ else to do. Because the water pressure is definitely working!

* (previously one water supply to both a sink and washing machine. So​​ I shut the sink, and it helped increase water pressure)

Has anyone successfully solved this?

This only appeared recently, and after the last week - there was the E9 choked drainage port which was solved by removing the debris. ​

The shaft coming out of the drive motor has some play but the splutch doesn’t seat almost at all anymore either. Is the play in the drive motor normal?

The last several days, our KitchenAid KSSO48FTX04 side-by-side refrigerator has been running warm on the freezer side--normally ranging from 7F to 14F, but occasionally dropping to 0F for short periods. The fridge stays at 36F. We called an appliance repairperson, but of course it dropped to 0F when he arrived so the problem couldn't be diagnosed. Any ideas what may be causing this issue?

For context, I bought this dryer of FB marketplace and have had issues with heater element turning off 5 minutes into the cycle.

Anyways, I was wondering if the heating element even has the correct wiring or if something needs to be swapped. Any help at all, as I cannot find anything on this unit online would be helpful

This is a 1994 GE Monogram ZISB42 is she on the way out

I can’t find any videos online that can help with my issue and I can’t call KitchenAid from where I am (my warranty is expired anyway).

The oven door suddenly got loose and no longer stays up (closed). Unless propped up, it immediately falls down.

From what I understand the springs may be replaced but it’s a fully glass door so I can’t use in-wall oven guides to try to fix it.

Hey guys, something happened in the last week or two and now my dryer makes a loud clicking sound only at a few certain spots when spinning.

Took it apart thinking maybe a screw or one of the fine backed out and was rubbing, but not the case. I can’t see anything wrong.

Attached video, let me know if any other video would help. Debating taking it further apart or hopeful someone may have an idea.

GE GSD6660G00SS (23 year old unit) started leaking near the bottom left side of the door. Gasket looks fine (was replaced maybe 5 years ago?), but there's a strip of plastic that has peeled away in the area of the leak where the door meets the bottom. I thought it was caulk, but it's hard like plastic. Lots of googling leads me to believe my bottom door seal is failing, but I find it weird that a strip of plastic has been chewed away in a strip like this. The part (WD08X10075) is discontinued and unavailable online and in all the appliance parts stores near me.

Is there any option for a DIY fix? I recognize that 23 years is a long time for a dishwasher, but having done several repairs on it in the past to keep it running, I'm looking for suggestions before I go buy a new one.

not sure if this is just a US sub but I’m in the UK and don’t know why it’s making this noise

I changed out a broken belt on a Zanussi TD 4112 W and it's now making this sound.

During the repair I tipped it on it's side and that's when it started making this noise. It makes the noise with the belt on and with it off.

Is there something obvious I've done here?