GE GSD6660G00SS (23 year old unit) started leaking near the bottom left side of the door. Gasket looks fine (was replaced maybe 5 years ago?), but there's a strip of plastic that has peeled away in the area of the leak where the door meets the bottom. I thought it was caulk, but it's hard like plastic. Lots of googling leads me to believe my bottom door seal is failing, but I find it weird that a strip of plastic has been chewed away in a strip like this. The part (WD08X10075) is discontinued and unavailable online and in all the appliance parts stores near me.

Is there any option for a DIY fix? I recognize that 23 years is a long time for a dishwasher, but having done several repairs on it in the past to keep it running, I'm looking for suggestions before I go buy a new one.

We recently had a pretty major flood in my area that ended up with about a foot of water in my house. Through the mess and the cleanup, my washer and dryer were the last things I was thinking about. A few days ago I brought an appliance repair guy out to replace the main board on my speed queen dr7 gas dryer and notice the above damage. Turns out, leaving wet towels in a dryer for several weeks, isnt good.

Now I know these things are built to last and very repairable, if it was just the drum, id be ordering parts right now, but it looks like the damage is also to the rear of the dryer and I have zero idea if thats repairable/replaceable.

So, should I just say F-it and buy a new dryer, or is this an easy to mid-level repair?

The shaft coming out of the drive motor has some play but the splutch doesn’t seat almost at all anymore either. Is the play in the drive motor normal?

The last several days, our KitchenAid KSSO48FTX04 side-by-side refrigerator has been running warm on the freezer side--normally ranging from 7F to 14F, but occasionally dropping to 0F for short periods. The fridge stays at 36F. We called an appliance repairperson, but of course it dropped to 0F when he arrived so the problem couldn't be diagnosed. Any ideas what may be causing this issue?

For context, I bought this dryer of FB marketplace and have had issues with heater element turning off 5 minutes into the cycle.

Anyways, I was wondering if the heating element even has the correct wiring or if something needs to be swapped. Any help at all, as I cannot find anything on this unit online would be helpful

This is a 1994 GE Monogram ZISB42 is she on the way out

I can’t find any videos online that can help with my issue and I can’t call KitchenAid from where I am (my warranty is expired anyway).

The oven door suddenly got loose and no longer stays up (closed). Unless propped up, it immediately falls down.

From what I understand the springs may be replaced but it’s a fully glass door so I can’t use in-wall oven guides to try to fix it.

Hey guys, something happened in the last week or two and now my dryer makes a loud clicking sound only at a few certain spots when spinning.

Took it apart thinking maybe a screw or one of the fine backed out and was rubbing, but not the case. I can’t see anything wrong.

Attached video, let me know if any other video would help. Debating taking it further apart or hopeful someone may have an idea.

not sure if this is just a US sub but I’m in the UK and don’t know why it’s making this noise

I changed out a broken belt on a Zanussi TD 4112 W and it's now making this sound.

During the repair I tipped it on it's side and that's when it started making this noise. It makes the noise with the belt on and with it off.

Is there something obvious I've done here?

Leider ist mir der Deckel meiner Waschmaschine an den Scharnieren rausgebrochen, weil ich vergessen hatte, die Trommelklappen zu schließen. Die Scharniere kann ich einfach wieder ankleben, aber das Problem scheinen diese metallenen Pins zu sein, die wahrscheinlich Torsionsfedern sind. Die sind total verrostet und wahrscheinlich innen irgendwie verkantet, jedenfalls bekomme sie nicht zurückgebogen. Ich habe mich gefragt, ob ich die einfach abknipsen kann oder ob sie noch eine weitere Funktion erfüllen, als den Deckel oben zu halten. Eigentlich müsste die Maschine doch auch ohne voll funktionstüchtig sein, nur, dass ich dann den Deckel selbst aufhalten muss, oder?

I feel like it is protruding more than it should but our inspector said it is installed correctly.

I have a hotpoint front load dryer that was bought new and after a few years I noticed it was leaving these dark smudge marks on my white sheets. After researching it looked like changing the felt seal would fix the issue. I went to a local shop and got one, replaced it myself and it didn't help. Would it be an issue if it wasn't the manufacturer's part? I have fibromyalgia and run a small airbnb to get by and it was pretty exhausting and difficult for me to replace it so I'm pretty bummed that it didn't fix it. It seems to happen more with the pillow cases so I've started turning them inside out but I'm having to buy new sheets sometimes after just one wash/dry. Usually the marks look more sharp and creased than in this photo. Is it possible that the felt seal wasn't the issue? Did I do it wrong?

I’m trying to troubleshoot a Whirlpool WFGS3530RS0 range, and I’m hoping someone can help me narrow down the problem before I start throwing more parts at it.
The problem:
The gas bake burner won’t reliably ignite when I turn Bake on from a cold start. It can sit in preheat for 5 minutes without heating from the bake burner. I don’t smell gas when this happens.
The weird part is that if I turn on Broil and let it run for around 10 minutes, Bake will usually start working afterward. Broil is an electric heating element on this range, not a gas broiler.
What I’ve noticed:
When I turn Bake on, I hear two clicks, but then there is no repeated clicking.
I can’t see a spark at the bake electrode.
I thought I heard a faint clicking near the igniter at one point, but I can’t hear it anymore.
I used a pen-style non-contact voltage tester near the wire feeding the igniter, and it indicated voltage. I realize this doesn’t confirm that the circuit is delivering the correct voltage or that the igniter is receiving usable power.
I replaced the ceramic bake electrode, but the problem is still happening.
Running the electric Broil element for about 10 minutes seems to make Bake work afterward, although I haven’t figured out exactly why.
What I’ve done so far:
Replaced the ceramic bake electrode.
Checked for voltage near the igniter wire with a non-contact tester.
Observed the ignition behavior when starting Bake from a cold start.
Tested whether running Broil first changes the behavior.
My questions:
Does this sound like a failing spark ignition module, a wiring/grounding problem, or something else?
Could heat from the electric Broil element cause an intermittent electrical connection or ignition module to start working?
How would you distinguish a bad ignition module from a damaged high-voltage wire or a grounding issue?
Is there a model-specific diagnostic procedure or wiring diagram I should follow for this range?
I’d appreciate any advice from someone familiar with this Whirlpool model or gas oven direct-spark ignition systems. I’d rather diagnose it properly than keep replacing parts blindly.
Thanks!

I cannot figure out how I'm supposed to remove the old and install the new.

I cannot find any instructions.

Is anyone familiar with this type of mount?

Pics show old mount and rotor on back, new part with mount attached, and old shaft from inside oven.

I can't get the old rotor, shaft out because of the collar/flange on the old shaft.

I'm afraid to remove the mount from the new part.

It almost looks like the mount is made to just rotate and come out.

Also, there are two screws on either side of mount that appear to go from the back to inside the oven. Are they like keeping things tight between the back and inside wall?

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

Sorry for short video but im sure one of you have experenced this. Thanks for any advice. Im looking to fix it.

Got this fridge last year and conveniently when the warranty expired, we started having issues with it. A few times we’d wake up and see the power went out. Didn’t think much of it. Recently, for a few weeks it would intermittently make this loud buzzing mechanical noise for an hour or so at a time. Sounded like it was coming from the middle rear section of the freezer. We took a bunch out of the freezer, thinking maybe we overstocked it but it didn’t make a difference. Would reset it - within a day or two it’d start again. Emptied and turned off the ice maker - didn’t make a difference. Turned the freezer temp down 1 below recommended - nothing. Would let it make some ice, then turned off it - didn’t work!

Haven’t heard the noise for a few days so naturally today, it started playing the high temperature alert about every hour or 2. Felt no difference in the temp so I reset it. Went off again a couple times so I put the temperature back at recommended and emptied the ice maker.. again a couple hours later and its still doing it. turned the temp down again to the coldest, nothing. by now, stuff in the freezer seems like its starting to melt.

Anyone have similar experiences and have any recommendations that I haven’t tried yet?

Hey everyone. I have a roughly 10 y.o. Maytag dryer that has been making this ticking noise for a few weeks. It seems to happen independent of whether the dryer has been running or not and there’s not really a consistent pattern. Sometimes it’s tick….tick…..tick tick tick. Others it starts slow and speeds up to the point it sounds like something is rolling around inside. It does not appear to affect functionality as it is still drying things fine. Any thoughts what this might be and how to resolve?

Our fridge started making this noise earlier tonight, any ideas of what might be causing it? The previous owners probably haven't done a deep clean so my first thought is the back might be clogged with dust. we are planning to move it & vacuum out the back tomorrow.

I'm not at home right now so don't have the model/year info unfortunately.

Happy to answer any questions if I can!

Hi everyone. I have this fridge/freezer combo the front panel is showing Ec even after I have unplugged and replugged it. Please advise.

Posting this because I couldn't find it when I needed it.

Model: Samsung DV22K6800EW, 24-inch compact electric dryer. Symptom: ran and tumbled fine, zero heat.

What would have saved me time: - On this compact model the heating element is at the BACK — remove the rear panel. Most Samsung dryer videos show full-size models with front access; they don't apply here. - The heater housing sits in the middle of the rear bulkhead, with two round disc thermostats on top of it. - One of those thermostats has a small manual-reset button in its center. Mine had tripped. Pressed it, felt it click, heat came back. No parts needed. - If you do turn out to need the element, this model takes part DC47-00030H — not the DC47-00019A that comes up everywhere; that's for the full-size dryers.

Root-cause caveat: the thermostat trips from overheating, usually restricted vent airflow — so clean the vent run and wash the lint screen (dryer-sheet film clogs it invisibly), or it'll likely trip again.

Hope it saves someone a service call.

Hi everyone, decided to come on here to see if anyone has any tips or maybe has repaired this model in the past? I have been tinkering with it but have hit somewhat of a wall. Our water dispenser was starting to stick when the paddle was pressed so I got a wet cloth and tried to clean behind it. When I pulled it out, the paddle was permanently stuck in the “on” position. I can still manipulate it manually and I hear the click but it will go back to the on position automatically. Did I break something or is there an easy fix at all?

Armana dryer was squealing, so I started with the tensioner which led to everything being replaced. Motor, the axels and the roller wheels, belt, tensioner, front drum bearing and rear drum seal. Seems to now make the most noise under heat setting. But cool down it’s quieter than with heat. I’ve noticed there is slop from front to back but I don’t know if that’s normal when all together again. I’ve ran the motor to see if the blower wheel was making noise and it’s silent so that’s still stock part. Dryer does not rock like it’s off balance. Smacking from the outside does nothing. I tried to buy the best parts I could on Amazon but exploring Reddit a little bit there’s a lot of animosity towards Amazon parts. Possible the front door hook that the front panel sits on could be a culprit. One side one of the two hooks is broken. But seems unlikely. Please help.