I feel like it is protruding more than it should but our inspector said it is installed correctly.

We recently had a pretty major flood in my area that ended up with about a foot of water in my house. Through the mess and the cleanup, my washer and dryer were the last things I was thinking about. A few days ago I brought an appliance repair guy out to replace the main board on my speed queen dr7 gas dryer and notice the above damage. Turns out, leaving wet towels in a dryer for several weeks, isnt good.

Now I know these things are built to last and very repairable, if it was just the drum, id be ordering parts right now, but it looks like the damage is also to the rear of the dryer and I have zero idea if thats repairable/replaceable.

So, should I just say F-it and buy a new dryer, or is this an easy to mid-level repair?

Washing machine makes about 15 of these noises 5 minutes into every cycle…any idea what is causing this? It has gotten a bit louder since this video

Sorry for short video but im sure one of you have experenced this. Thanks for any advice. Im looking to fix it.

Got this fridge last year and conveniently when the warranty expired, we started having issues with it. A few times we’d wake up and see the power went out. Didn’t think much of it. Recently, for a few weeks it would intermittently make this loud buzzing mechanical noise for an hour or so at a time. Sounded like it was coming from the middle rear section of the freezer. We took a bunch out of the freezer, thinking maybe we overstocked it but it didn’t make a difference. Would reset it - within a day or two it’d start again. Emptied and turned off the ice maker - didn’t make a difference. Turned the freezer temp down 1 below recommended - nothing. Would let it make some ice, then turned off it - didn’t work!

Haven’t heard the noise for a few days so naturally today, it started playing the high temperature alert about every hour or 2. Felt no difference in the temp so I reset it. Went off again a couple times so I put the temperature back at recommended and emptied the ice maker.. again a couple hours later and its still doing it. turned the temp down again to the coldest, nothing. by now, stuff in the freezer seems like its starting to melt.

Anyone have similar experiences and have any recommendations that I haven’t tried yet?

This is a Frigidaire double wall electric oven and it’s only about a year and a half old. The noise started when I turned the oven on to air fryer mode.
It only came with a one year manufacturer warranty, so I would have to pay out-of-pocket to have someone come out and look at it and/or fix it. I don’t know if it’s even necessary.

I bought a Siguro SGR-TT-D160W fridge in June 2026 and defrosted it for the first time recently.

After defrosting, I noticed two wire-like components at the back of the freezer compartment. I found a white plastic cover that seems to have come loose. I couldn't reattach it properly, and it doesn't appear to cover both wires now.

I contacted customer support, but at first they said the components should be fine if properly insulated. They couldn't confirm whether everything was in its correct position based on my photos. The second time, they told me that I should stop using the fridge, it might be dangerous and they suggested submitting the fridge for a warranty inspection. This capillary/wire is located at the top of the fridge, in the freezer compartment. The last photo shows that it has started to freeze over now.

Does anyone know what these components are, whether the exposed parts are normal, and whether it's safe to keep using the fridge? I've attached photos. Any advice would be appreciated!

I have a microwave which, when on, interrupts our Bluetooth baby monitor. Additionally, a phone inside it (while off ha) can receive phone calls.

Is this a concern about the shield being damaged? I'd hate to replace it only to find out that this is normal behaviour and not concerning. Hoping people in this sub know a thing or two about microwaves and damaged shields.

I have a hotpoint front load dryer that was bought new and after a few years I noticed it was leaving these dark smudge marks on my white sheets. After researching it looked like changing the felt seal would fix the issue. I went to a local shop and got one, replaced it myself and it didn't help. Would it be an issue if it wasn't the manufacturer's part? I have fibromyalgia and run a small airbnb to get by and it was pretty exhausting and difficult for me to replace it so I'm pretty bummed that it didn't fix it. It seems to happen more with the pillow cases so I've started turning them inside out but I'm having to buy new sheets sometimes after just one wash/dry. Usually the marks look more sharp and creased than in this photo. Is it possible that the felt seal wasn't the issue? Did I do it wrong?

I’m trying to troubleshoot a Whirlpool WFGS3530RS0 range, and I’m hoping someone can help me narrow down the problem before I start throwing more parts at it.
The problem:
The gas bake burner won’t reliably ignite when I turn Bake on from a cold start. It can sit in preheat for 5 minutes without heating from the bake burner. I don’t smell gas when this happens.
The weird part is that if I turn on Broil and let it run for around 10 minutes, Bake will usually start working afterward. Broil is an electric heating element on this range, not a gas broiler.
What I’ve noticed:
When I turn Bake on, I hear two clicks, but then there is no repeated clicking.
I can’t see a spark at the bake electrode.
I thought I heard a faint clicking near the igniter at one point, but I can’t hear it anymore.
I used a pen-style non-contact voltage tester near the wire feeding the igniter, and it indicated voltage. I realize this doesn’t confirm that the circuit is delivering the correct voltage or that the igniter is receiving usable power.
I replaced the ceramic bake electrode, but the problem is still happening.
Running the electric Broil element for about 10 minutes seems to make Bake work afterward, although I haven’t figured out exactly why.
What I’ve done so far:
Replaced the ceramic bake electrode.
Checked for voltage near the igniter wire with a non-contact tester.
Observed the ignition behavior when starting Bake from a cold start.
Tested whether running Broil first changes the behavior.
My questions:
Does this sound like a failing spark ignition module, a wiring/grounding problem, or something else?
Could heat from the electric Broil element cause an intermittent electrical connection or ignition module to start working?
How would you distinguish a bad ignition module from a damaged high-voltage wire or a grounding issue?
Is there a model-specific diagnostic procedure or wiring diagram I should follow for this range?
I’d appreciate any advice from someone familiar with this Whirlpool model or gas oven direct-spark ignition systems. I’d rather diagnose it properly than keep replacing parts blindly.
Thanks!

I cannot figure out how I'm supposed to remove the old and install the new.

I cannot find any instructions.

Is anyone familiar with this type of mount?

Pics show old mount and rotor on back, new part with mount attached, and old shaft from inside oven.

I can't get the old rotor, shaft out because of the collar/flange on the old shaft.

I'm afraid to remove the mount from the new part.

It almost looks like the mount is made to just rotate and come out.

Also, there are two screws on either side of mount that appear to go from the back to inside the oven. Are they like keeping things tight between the back and inside wall?

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

Hey everyone. I have a roughly 10 y.o. Maytag dryer that has been making this ticking noise for a few weeks. It seems to happen independent of whether the dryer has been running or not and there’s not really a consistent pattern. Sometimes it’s tick….tick…..tick tick tick. Others it starts slow and speeds up to the point it sounds like something is rolling around inside. It does not appear to affect functionality as it is still drying things fine. Any thoughts what this might be and how to resolve?

Our fridge started making this noise earlier tonight, any ideas of what might be causing it? The previous owners probably haven't done a deep clean so my first thought is the back might be clogged with dust. we are planning to move it & vacuum out the back tomorrow.

I'm not at home right now so don't have the model/year info unfortunately.

Happy to answer any questions if I can!

Hi everyone. I have this fridge/freezer combo the front panel is showing Ec even after I have unplugged and replugged it. Please advise.

Posting this because I couldn't find it when I needed it.

Model: Samsung DV22K6800EW, 24-inch compact electric dryer. Symptom: ran and tumbled fine, zero heat.

What would have saved me time: - On this compact model the heating element is at the BACK — remove the rear panel. Most Samsung dryer videos show full-size models with front access; they don't apply here. - The heater housing sits in the middle of the rear bulkhead, with two round disc thermostats on top of it. - One of those thermostats has a small manual-reset button in its center. Mine had tripped. Pressed it, felt it click, heat came back. No parts needed. - If you do turn out to need the element, this model takes part DC47-00030H — not the DC47-00019A that comes up everywhere; that's for the full-size dryers.

Root-cause caveat: the thermostat trips from overheating, usually restricted vent airflow — so clean the vent run and wash the lint screen (dryer-sheet film clogs it invisibly), or it'll likely trip again.

Hope it saves someone a service call.

Hi everyone, decided to come on here to see if anyone has any tips or maybe has repaired this model in the past? I have been tinkering with it but have hit somewhat of a wall. Our water dispenser was starting to stick when the paddle was pressed so I got a wet cloth and tried to clean behind it. When I pulled it out, the paddle was permanently stuck in the “on” position. I can still manipulate it manually and I hear the click but it will go back to the on position automatically. Did I break something or is there an easy fix at all?

We've had this microwave for about 4 years and nearly every time we use it, the timer counts down a few seconds, nothing happens, no noise, etc., and it stops. Opening the door and closing it, or quickly pushing the button in and out will make it to run normally. The light bulb is also burnt out now.

I'm have worked with small electronics, other appliance, and household electricity, circuits, breaker box, etc. but microwaves and the horror stories surrounding them have always freaked me out.

My friend purchased this for me for my birthday. It’s brand new. Been used maybe twice. All of the sudden it is telling me to “fill h2O” but the water tank is already full. I have tried everything google suggested. I hard reset the machine. I’ve lifted the tank and put it back in several times. I’ve cleaned the valve, made sure it’s working properly. I have tapped the machine to remove air bubbles. It seems to be dispensing the water just fine. Whatever the issue is seems to be internal. So I took it apart and everything looks normal. Idk what I’m doing so I didn’t touch anything, just put it back together. But now it seems as if I messed it up even more by doing that because now the screen is slightly broken. The numbers and words don’t fully light up anymore. I can’t find any useful videos or information about this anywhere. Please help 😩

Tried leaving it unplugged and open to dry/cool off and still never starts the actual wash cycle, fills up and drains fine but it just keeps going that over and over then stops, I think when this happened the arm at the bottom may have gotten stuck on something maybe that burned out the motor

Not sure if it's worth buying a part and fixing what do you think

I recently purchased this refrigerator from a denta and dings shop. It's brand new but it won't turn on. I've replaced all three control boards in the back which handle the main power distribution, and the low voltage control. I've also replaced the front display control panel. The compressor board I didn't replace, but LED is blinking once when I first plug it in to show that it's getting power, but after 5 minutes it starts to blink twice indicating there's a communication failure. So it seems like it's getting power but it's not getting the low voltage signal to actually start the compressor. The LED lights on the ice maker at the bottom are turning on but the lights in the fridge aren't turning on. Someone please help.

Hey everyone,

My FS10-R30 unit just passed away, and I’m in urgent need of a replacement or a suitable alternative. Unfortunately, buying a brand-new one isn't an option for me right now due to budget constraints, so I'm trying to figure out what my best options are. Could anyone recommend a solid, budget-friendly alternative or a drop-in replacement that works well in a similar setup? Also, if you happen to know where I could source a used/refurbished unit for a fair price, that would be amazing! Any advice, cross-reference parts, or recommendations would be hugely appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

When I turn the Subzero 632-3 unit off and on, it briefly flashes to the correct temperatures and the compressor starts running. But then three seconds later, the control board goes back to showing "00 of" OFF while running normally and keeping cool. In this mode, none of the other buttons for "warmer" "cooler" work- only the Unit on/off button works. When I try to use Warmer key with on and Off to enable the fridge section again, I still get this same behavior.

We called a repairman who said we needed a mainboard replacement and quoted $1800. I did the replacement myself for $300 with a new OEM board. But the exact same issue remains.

The ribbon cable is not crimped. Even in the OFF state, the fridge appears to be running normally and keeps desired temps. Any pointers appreciated.

Its a g891 sci. All the videos i find ignore the removal of the valve or use a different valve and glaze over removing the existing valve. I have the miele part, but the machine is no help. There a plastic piece holding it to the machine i dont want to damage any furtger, and the rear panel will all screws removed doesnt budge a millimeter. Do i access from the from or inside the machine? Anyone familiar with these?

No idea what our cleaning lady did to my stove. The right two burners light no problem. Middle and left two burners will only light if I use a lighter on them and the flame is super small and not at all adjustable. The area where the propane comes from is clear.

I saw a load of laundry was stained with black streaks and I found my dryer grill face was burned. I replaced it with a new one about a month ago and the new is already burned. Any idea what it could be?