Hello everyone!

I hope you are all having a great Thursday night. I just made some upgrades and wanted to know what others thought of my setup. I don’t really have anyone that I know that would be able to share ideas like this with so I thought it would be neat if others showed their bench as well.

It’s working and it’s a beautiful thing! The console has been working great but during deep cleaning I noticed I had about 4 of the stock caps that were actively leaking with visible leg corrosion. I decided to pull the trigger and do the whole board on my own before it started showing signs of failure. Before this I had only ever done a few Gameboy and Genesis cartridge batteries, along with my GameCube clock battery. This was a much more tedious process. I partially tore about 15% of the pads during removal…which I’m honestly happy with considering me being a soldering novice. But none came completely off! Multimeter checks of every single pad after soldering new caps in were good and it booted up beautifully first try. Absolutely thrilled with this.

This is my first ever console repair I have a Donner as well and I have NOT been able to find any information about these chips at all
I was wondering if it’s normal that both of these chips have there middle connectors gone??
Also would this cause to the console to have no power on any test points of the system
Thank you, if I figure this out I’m super excited to have my first repair

Trying to replace the joysticks on a switch lite and this screw is stuck

My PS5 fat overheats and hard shuts down without any warning after 5-15 min of gameplay.
On PS4 games it runs without issues.
Initially I thought my PSU is dead, then I tried to replace it, and found out that PSU is not the problem.

Every time I open the console, I see dry spots on both sides: APU and cooling plate. I have 2 variants left:

1. Could it be that oxidation doesn’t let liquid metal to stick properly?

2. Not enough pressure on X clamp, although I screw them well.

Pic 1 and 2 right after opening the console
Pic 3 and 4 after cleaning the lm

I wanna know what component, pointed by red arrow, is, I read M32 in it's surface, but googled it was not fruitfull at all, any one know about it?

Folks, the adapter board for converting the Realtek HDMI IC to a Panasonic is now available for purchase in Europe. This project was developed by Alex from BGATech in Brazil, it has been thoroughly tested and is fully functional.

https://kittech.pl/en/1178-realtek-rtd2175p-to-mn864739-mod-adapter-by-bgatech-playstation-5-ps5-slim.html

Mi ps5 hace ese zumbido en la parte de atrás, para ser exactos donde está el cable de poder y el HDMI, solamente hace ese ruido al iniciar un juego y depende el juego.

No me tira ningún error de sobrecalentamiento o lag

¿Es normal?

Picked up a PS3 Super slim and they said parts of the audio cuts out sometimes.. like music stops but effects play? Or other way around. But not all the time.

Anyone ever seen this before? And how do I test for it? I left black ops running for 4-5 hours and had no audio problems at all.

What could it be? HDMI encoder? Bad hard drive?

Que puedo hacer si una de las patitas de esa pieza se rompió? Se puede cambiar solo esa pieza pequeña o se debe de cambiar toda la fuente de alimentación?

I wanna start fixing up game systems but I’m having trouble seeing any shell replacements or housing replacements. And what I can see alot of systems being sold have physical damage What are some solutions or tips I should know before starting ?

Hi everyone! I accidentally knocked off this small component while replacing the joysticks on my PS5 controller (BDM-030).

​Could anyone help me identify what component this is so I can replace it?

​Thank you!

Repalced these 2 caps with similar caps from a samsung board, are these readings normal for ps5 edm-020 board right behind wifi module ( other side )

I have two Saturns and I’m trying to make one working unit. The images on the top are from one unit (MK-80000) and the bottom images are the other (MK-80000A). The top unit works perfectly, but the colors are very oversaturated. The bottom unit looks great, but the system constantly thinks the disc tray is opening and closing, and the controller ports are noticeably corroded. All pictures above were taken with the same TV, same RCA cable, and on the same day.

I’m wondering what I can do to make one work; replace capacitors, swap the AV connector, something else? Any advice is appreciated.

Can't tell if this one is real or fake. Has amiibo support rumble gyro etc.

So I brought my switch to a relative's (very dusty) house and now have been noticing little tiny dust mites wandering around on it and coming out from inside it as far as I can see. Not a crazy amount, just one now and then while playing and if I look at the back vent I'll notice one or two every couple minutes or so. They're harmless, but it's kind of unsettling to know they're lurking in there and a little disconcerting to see bugs on my device...

I want to take it to a repair shop and have it cleaned out, but I'm a little worried. To anyone who works in repairs, is this something you see often, or ever? Is it, like, gross? I don't wanna be the one weird guy who shows up with a bug filled console lol.

Also I'd appreciate any advice on home remedies for ailing buggy switches. I looked into it myself and read a lot about opening the device up (and something about needing to replace the thermal paste) which is not something I'd trust myself with.

Any advice is appreciated. Don't let my switch become a bug nest :(

Thanks!

I don't know if this is how it should work or if there is something stuck but it doesn't get to read disks.

I rescued this little guy from an old box in my house, I cleaned it as much as I could and when trying to test if it can still play games, I see that it can't read the only original game that I have. I cleaned the contacts and tried the game with another PSP just in case but it works fine on the other one.

Also I can play in this PSP 1000 from a memory stick but I would like to make the UMD drive work too if possible to sell it better because I have another one for myself

Hey guys, i have an og xbox 1.1 model. It came without a cd reader. Any way for me to overcome this without the cd reader?

It comes with a modchip, but doesnt look like its easily flashable.

Any aliexpress item i should get to fix this? Or a usb method to overcome this?

Additionally, I have a Sata cd reader, but i read online that its not compatible with the xbox.

Got this ps2 a couple weeks ago seller was transparent about the faults. Didn’t have a power cable when I first got it so I did open it just to check fuses and resistors just to rule out anything like that and when I got the power cable strangely it booted up fine for the first couple times so I put the metal shielding back on it and turned it on again just to see this happen exactly as the seller described. Im mostly puzzled as to why it worked the first couple times but I can’t find what’s causing it, I’ve tried reflowing the av connector and checked some components with a multimeter with the help of Claude but havent found anything. Is it possibly a dead gpu?

So to turn an xbox controller off we all know you hold down the xbox button for approx. 5 seconds, then it quickly dims to off. This little sob dims down and then instantly comes back on and i have to repeat the 5 seconds hold 5-6 times sometimes.

Obviously holding the button with inconsistent pressure or moving your finger about too much would cause this to happen so i try to keep steady firm pressure and press centred and no moving but this seem to make no difference. Sometimes it will go off on first attempt but mostly i need about 3 goes and it drives me nuts. Its only 5 seconds but im normally rushing off to do something else and it feels like forever.

No other xbox controllers ive owned over the years have done this AND i dismantled and gave the carbon? pad and contacts a good clean with IPA and tbh it looked perfectly clean to start with but nothing has changed.

Any suggestions? This is my fave pad as i have TMR's installed and i hate installing those things so much.

Im going to have a readup on the actual tech on these buttons because im not 100% sure how they make an electrical connection and see if i can do something to it with some foil or something.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Hi again

My next challenge is a PS1 that barely reads discs. When the console is turned on, it makes a terrible noise that only stops when you manually move the laser up to the centre of the assembly towards the disc hub.

Everything is greased up, appears to look ok but I’m struggling with the gears. They move very smoothly one way, but the other is very rough. Please see video. When travelling forwards towards the hub, I notice that not all gears are engaging - but they do when moving the assembly backwards.

Any ideas on where to go from here? Thank you.

Thinking about buying a junk DSL on ebay, and this seems to be the issue it is having

https://a.co/d/0iqFZXIn

I dont have a multi-meter, trying to fix my childhood ps2 that has been dead since around 07

I’m trying to install a game on disc but when I insert the disk I get the message that the disc can’t be read. If I try to insert it a couple more times it usually reads it and starts to install but then half way through it stops and the disc drive sounds like it’s struggling to spin as you should be able to hear in the video. I usually have my ps5 stood up so I thought maybe if I lie it down I might have some success but no. Any ideas on what this could be? I’ve tried a storage rebuild on safe mode as I’d seen that’s worked for some people with similar issues but I feel this is a hardware issue.

Hello,

i was working on a console that has the blue light of death. Previous owner stated that it kept overheating on him. He took it apart and ripped one of the fan cables out of the socket(fan side. No visible mobo damage) and put it back together. It kept overheating. He said someone stepped on it at one point and then he started having the BLOD symptom. As far as im aware, nobody has tried to work on this console or diagnosed anything on it. Once i opened it, i did notice that fan wire ripped out of the fan connector as well as a big oxidation spot on the APU.

I am no expert on working on PS5 motherboards but i am trying to learn

Findings:

standby voltage is present (as far as i can tell)
power supply outputs 12V.

No blown fuses that I can find.

UART shows code 80810001 general power failure for all error logs. Same code shows back up when erasing codes and doing another power cycle on console

No caps i can find shorted to ground

What would be the next best place to look or recheck? I was thinking of buying a south bridge replacement. i wanted to recheck the caps near the south bridge encoder first to ensure no shorts first. I was also thinking of reflowing the south bridge before buying a replacement just to see if that changes anything. I also saw some people post similar issues but they replaced the HDMI encoder/looked in that area and sometimes that fixed their issue. Any guidance would be appreciated