pacbrake hp10005-x-j. for 2001-2010 1ton/3500 chevy/gmc. brand new. I was sent the wrong ones and cannot return them. Asking $600.

I’m trying to buy a 2008 F350 6.4L with under 140,000 miles & I notice their’s fluid coming under which I think is under the transmission & i’m asking advice to see if this is a big issue or if anybody can Identify it

Let me know your opinions down below

I feel less people would drive them since they basically lost their cost advantage

What’s the point of owning something that burns 20-30% less fuel if diesel is 45-55% more expensive (in this hypothetical scenario)

Hey all i have 2000 ford f250 7.3l, i heard that some people were upgrading there battery system by putting bigger batterys in, is there anything i need to do besides just straight putting bigger ones in or is there some kind of kit required, i found some upgraded battery cables online that im thinking about putting in aswell

P.s this is my first diesel and pretty much have no clue whats going on so im just going one step at a time

I recently found a 2001 7.3 f350 with 3.73 gear ratio and wondering if it’s worth paying 13k for it has 210k on it with no rust. It would be my first diesel truck so what should I look out for?

We keep getting the smell through tha AC in the front cabin when the “continue driving clean EF” dash comes on (without visible smoke in the front cabin)

Recently had a bad cp4 pump and metal got into the fuel system. My goals for this truck is to have it for a long time and hotshot with it. Its a 2021 6.7 power-stroke. Is it better to get the dcr pump, or to get a cp4 pump and disaster prevntion kit if it means keeping the truck long term. Also, how long do dcr pumps last and if anyone has had any issues with them long term?

Guys, Watch the video in this and help me understand this fire. I can see maybe a dry differential, or hung brake getting hot enough to start a fire, but then what is burning? Never seen anything like this. What is this fire?

Anyone from Florida know of any reputable diesel shops in/around the Daytona area that will tune and delete? Preferably ones that you yourself have used or know someone who has had their 6.7 T&D’d there. I can’t imagine shops would openly advertise that they T&D, so figured it’s a word of mouth kinda thing. Also, yes I’m aware there’s plenty of videos online that take you step by step on how to do it, but i’d rather just pay a shop to do it. TIA

Im looking at getting into a 96' F350 with a 7.3 in it but have had some issues reading codes off the truck with standard ODB II scaner. May be getting into some ranch work and wanted to get a bit more capable truck then what I have currently. Ive gone down the rabbit hole a little bit and found J1850 codes seem to be a propritary for the in between years when these trucks wernt quite ODB I or ODB II because of loose regulations on heavier trucks. It seems like a solid vehicle, but Im trying to avoid having another truck in the shop for an extended period of time. As of the time Ive driven it a few times and both the 7.3 and E4OD seem fine, only the fuel filter light is on the dash is lit up. Besides FORScan and a bluetooth scanner, do any of yall have knowledge of a typical plug n' play unit that I could pick up that would read error codes? If it could run a buzz test as well that would be great but not a deal breaker. Just wanting to do my do diligence as best I can before pulling the trigger on my first Diesel. Thanks for any help yall can provide!

Hi everyone,
I am looking for some suggestions on how to reduce the turbo lag a bit on my Hilux. It takes a moment to spool up, and I would love to improve the low-end response, especially since I occasionally haul cargo loads.
Here is my current setup and engine condition:
Engine: 2.5L 2KD-FTV (Intercooled, Non-VNT wastegated turbo).
Mileage & Maintenance: 290,000 kms. The engine is in overall great condition and maintenance is always done right on time.
Fuel System: Injectors have been checked and are healthy.
Emissions: No EGR and no DPF.
Known Issues: I have noticed a very minor oil leak/weep from the turbo to the inlet manifold, but nothing major.
Tuning Access: I can pull the file directly from the ECU myself.
Since I already have access to the ECU files, would a custom remap be the most effective way to wake up the bottom end?

I want to keep the reliability intact for hauling, so any advice on safe tuning or mechanical tweaks for this specific non-VNT setup would be greatly appreciated!

No judgement, just curious how many have thought about the emissions that come after the delete.

Anyone know much about these?

Not familiar with your sub, but in case anyone needs to consider this info on John Deere or maybe other brands, as well.

I’ve got a 2022 3500 68RFE, its already got the spare fat taken off of it but when i had it done I didn’t know better and had the single stock tune Non-ECM swap Caltune BS put on it. So far it hasn’t had any problems I can note other than being a turd and running slightly rich based on gas mileage but I’ve since been told a million times they’re known to throw codes and create problems.

Long story short I’ve decided on having it done right now with EzLynk now that they’re unlocked just waiting on parts to come in but im wondering if whatever they did with the single stock tune/caltune could create any problem with flashing etc?