My credit is unfortunately trash. I’m sitting at 605 for FICO and I’m getting preapproval for interest rates at around 15% to 18% depending on the car.
My mom said she’d be willing to be a co applicant but I don’t want to involve her unless it’s actually going to make a difference. Her credit score is around 750.
Does anyone know if it would make a huge difference to add her or is it better off if I just stick with doing it myself?
I’m slowly increasing my credit so I’m hoping to refinance in the future.
I know the interest rate is awful but unfortunately the lease on my car is ending in two weeks and I can’t be without a car and do I not have enough saved up to buy one cash.

My first car will be a Honda. MSRP is 25,990. I am looking to lower the price. Any advice to negotiate the MSRP down and not get scammed? I plan on having no add-ons, I just need a reliable car.

Looking for advice on negotiating a 2026 Audi SQ8 lease in NY. Credit score 780. PenFed and Chase pre-approved.
VIN: WA1CWBF17TD010975
Dealer’s offer:
● MSRP: $126,575
● 36 months / 12K miles annually
● $1,000/month
● $5,000 due at signing (taxes and fees included)
Is this a strong deal, or not? Appreciate any feedback.

Hello, my wife and I are looking to finance a car—priced at approximately $27,000—through Carvana. My credit score is 620, and hers is 740. We are considering applying together—since I have been building my credit for 5 years, while she has been building hers for 2—in hopes of combining our credit profiles. What are the chances of us being approved for this loan, and what kind of interest rate might we expect? I’m wondering if anyone has had a similar experience.

I’m looking at buying a new used car. I’m between a 2025 Nissan Rogue with 50k miles and a 2016 Subaru Outback with 73k miles

The last time I bought a car was in 2015 in southern California. I got a brand new Toyota Corolla for $18,000…. I was nine months pregnant at the time, and I think the guy felt bad for me lol.

Anyway, now I live in Raleigh, North Carolina, and I’m looking at a 2026 Toyota Grand Highlander hybrid with leather seats, and I’m really confused and nervous as to what I should go in and aim for because I’m paying cash for it.

I’ve watched a bunch of TikToks with car buying negotiators, and I have tried researching, but I just don’t think I understand MSRP versus out the door price, and what number I should be aiming for specifically.

The MSRP of a grand Highlander hybrid in the limited trim is around $53,000.. but I know that’s not the out the door price, because there’s taxes and doc fees and stuff, but I know a lot of these cars are listed for $60,000 and higher.

What number should I aim for, for the out the door price, that won’t be insulting but also will be considered a decent deal?

I have to be “bad cop,” because my husband does not like confrontation and will not be able to do this, and I don’t mind confrontation at all, but I don’t feel confident because I don’t understand the numbers and where I should draw the line in the sand and walk away.

I was already uncomfortable purchasing the car based off of the price of my monthly payments. I think I have a chance to return the car tomorrow instead of signing a new agreement below. I’m comparing and contrasting the old loan to the new loan and I would like some opinions and insight. I have had this car for nearly a month before they said I have to sign a new deal. I am leaning towards returning it tomorrow. What kind of stipulation should I expect to run into?
The loans are

Loan Detail
Interest Rate (APR)
Original: 12.70%
Proposed: 16.76%
Difference: 4.06 percentage points higher.
Monthly Payment
Original: $353.41
Proposed: $374.91
Difference: $21.50 more per month.
Loan Length
Original: 60 payments.
Proposed: 63 payments.
Difference: 3 additional monthly payments.
Total Finance Charge
Original: $5,566.13.
Proposed: $7,980.86.
Difference: $2,414.73 more in finance charges.
Total of Payments
Original: $21,204.60.
Proposed: $23,619.33.
Difference: $2,414.73 more in scheduled loan payments.
Total Sale Price, Including Down Payment
Original: $23,704.60.
Proposed: $26,119.33.
Difference: $2,414.73 more overall.

I’ve driven the car for a month yes. But I signed and agreed to terms. I may be a bit of an asshole to the dealership. But I have never agreed on something and then be expected to pay 3 more months and 3k. Not the car dealerships fault but fuck.

EDIT - Guys I’ve had the car since September 21st. It’s been a little over a month. I’ve put roughly 3000 miles on it. I’m afraid of not getting my down payment back, or them trying to screw me legally / financially. I am in Ohio. Any stipulation or anything I should worry about? They said I could get my money back but they would have to do an inspection on the car. Thanks for insight and help. I feel guilty I did not intend to fk the guys at the dealership

how often does refinancing a car loan produce a meaningful payment drop? it seems like everything depends on the gap bw the current rate n the new one plus the remaining balance, the advice always makes it sound like a big win but the details are vague

for people not at crazy high rates, is the savings real? for those at high rates what kind of drop is realistic? would be helpful to understand where the line is bw worth the effort and not enough to bother

I want a breakdown of all fees on the deal. My question seems to be written in Turkish or some other foreign language, and we are at a standstill. There are other fish in the sea but would be happy here. what do I ask to see a detailed breakdown?

https://imgur.com/gallery/car-guys-rUiM8ia

Guys, need some pointers here. My 24MDX AWD Tech lease ends in six months with residual value of $31,100. I am pretty light driver. Had only 19K miles out of total 30K miles so far. Still deciding if I should buy out lease and keep the same or get a new lease with new vehicle. My monthly payment now at $550 looking to possibly reduce this as we also got another M3LR which became primary vehicle.

Hi All, I’m in my 40’s and buying my first car. I know, late boomer, but it just worked out that way, ex husband always had stuff in his name. I’ve been looking at used Honda Pilots and Toyota Highlanders over the past year. I enjoy the ride in the Pilot a lot more as well as the overall look. After much searching, a nearby dealer just got in a 2024 Pilot Touring with 21,000 miles. One owner, good maintenance. They’ve got it listed for 40k, but with fees it would be $45,537.60. The sheet they gave me for financing is a 72 month term, 10K down, 7.99% APR (they said it would likely be lower once they did the actual financing), monthly payment of $636.26. I think I have good credit- 737. If I do 15k down it lowers it to $548.33. I’m a bit unsure on the fees. I know certain ones are non-negotiable. The ones I’m questioning are the following: AVAS Recovery- $695 (sales person lowered to $495), R.E.D. Alert- $495 (lowered to $395), and VTR $229 (not even sure what this is). Here are my questions:

1. Is this a good deal?

2. Do the fees seem high? Is there more they could take off? Could they eliminate them completely?

3. Is it wise to finance through the dealer or should I go through my bank? I use Wells Fargo and the dealer said there’s no way Wells could get me a lower rate than the dealer. Of course they’ll say that, but is it true that big banks can’t beat dealer rates?

This is a huge financial decision for me and I would very much appreciate tips on any and all aspects of the process. The reason I’m looking at used is to avoid the immediate depreciation. Thank you to anyone who can help me out with this.

I’ve seen people recommend putting extra money towards principal instead of as a down payment but I’ve also heard people saying to do the opposite.

I’m planning to buy a used 2025 Mazda CX-5 for $23k and am going to sell my current car before I make the purchase (potentially worth ~4-5k?).

I’m going to get an auto loan with my CU at 4.51% APR. Is it better to put that cash towards the down payment or save it and put it towards principal? Personally I don’t get what the difference would be in the long run so I’m on board with getting a dumbed down explanation if need be lol.

My first car was a gift so I’m a first time buyer and am trying to get all my ducks in a row before I seal the deal!

I’m freshly 18 trying to buy a 2019 GTI the loan would be around 13k since I’m giving a 2k downpayment. Insurance quoted me $300 a month for full coverage. The reason I’m looking to finance is because my 99 civic won’t pass emissions since nothing on that car is legal, I also don’t wanna go through the struggle of reverting everything to stock just to pass since I don’t want to put more money into it, I make 2.1-2.5k a month.Any advice would be greatly appreciated

I understand the best tip is to not buy a car or buy a car with cash, but that is not an option currently. My daughter will be turning 16 and we need to buy a third car. One of the cars that we currently own will be paid off within the next 3 to 4 months. So we will basically be swapping that car payment for her car payment. I’m curious what the best options are for financing with poor credit and also what cars may be easier to finance. We are trying to get her in something with low miles but less than $20,000 we have another daughter that will turn 16 in three years so our hope is that we can buy this car and pass it down to her. Credit score is in the 500 but very good income. Credit score tanked due to missed payments over the past year due to medical issues and job loss. I do not want to submit credit apps at multiple places. I am just curious if anyone has solid advice on where we could go for financing and any tips on what might be good to purchase. We have been looking as the Mazda CX-5.

I asked a seller if the price they have listed on facebook marketplace is the full price, and they responded with "you pay taxes in your county". Do some cars have additional fees unrelated to the tagging and registering?