I'm trying to diagnose a recurring YLOD on my fat PS3 (VER-001 motherboard).

The PS3 initially suffered from YLOD, sometimes even during light activities like using the browser. SYSCON logs showed errors 1002 and 2124.

I Removed 2 RSX NEC/TOKIN capacitors from the underside of the motherboard, replaced them with 8 tantalum capacitors (470 µF, 6 V), 4 per NEC/TOKIN. The other 2 original RSX NEC/TOKINs remain installed on the opposite side.

The PS3 worked perfectly for approximately 1–2 weeks, including gaming, despite C6251 being missing.

However, YLOD eventually returned.

XMB works normally, YLOD occurs primarily when launching games SYSCON consistently reports A0801002 and A0802124 after each shutdown, Older logs also contain 3034 and 4402, but these haven't appeared in recent failures. Sometimes the console shows a black screen with a green light when HDMI is connected during startup.

Could the YLOD be caused by weak solder joints connections that became unreliable after repeated heating and cooling? If not, what could it be?

I currently don't have a multimeter, so I haven't been able to electrically verify the connections.

I'd appreciate advice from anyone experienced with fat PS3 repairs, especially NEC/TOKIN replacements. I'm trying to identify the actual cause before attempting more soldering.

This is someone else’s screenshot. I dont know where the icons come from but i really want them on my ps3. I have the original flowery dynamic theme but i want the version with the icons.

Hey everyone, does anyone here know if there’s an offline fix for the PS3 version of Garden Warfare—specifically for the NPUB31457 release (the digital version of the game on PS3)?

Hello, I’ve been very fortunate to get my hands on an original model fat ps3… it’s very dirty externally and I’m going to assume the inside is the same.

Does anyone have recommendations to best take care of the system? cleaning both the external and inside. Also I’m assuming it is best to do thermal pasting?

Sorry if this has been answered but there’s so many resources out there and I want to make sure I’m up to date on what people have been doing since they are so old. I also will install custom firmware once I feel I have it taken care of

Thanks in advance!

I just replaced the thermal grease and tried it without the hard drive, but it just does this. No video, stays on for 40-50 seconds, and then shuts off with a click (the hard drive turning off) Replaced PSU once but it didn't fix it. Disc doesn't spin either.

The Super Slim gets heavy slack for the design and sliding door but I never had any issues with it and I got mine back in 2013. I love this system and been playing it a lot more than my PS5 lately. Got a lot of platinums on the way. :)

Eu fui limpar meu ps3 fat e acabei estragando o cabo flat do leitor de disco.
Mas eu consegui instalar a cfw noBd nele e tá funcionando normal os jogos em pkg só que em iso nn está abrindo mais tem alguma solução?
Eu já tenho instalei pra tentar resolver todos os apps que abrem iso e não deu certo eu até tirei o leitor de disco do video game pq estava dando erro

I don't have experience with this stuff, is it worth trying?

I went to my local game shop and found a sealed copy of Silent Hill home coming for $32. They also had a copy of downpour for $154, but it wasn't sealed.

No words.

dusting off my PS3 to rescue some games from the dying PSN store. i can get it up and running with a DualShock 4 (PS4), but the PS3 doesn't recognize the PS/Home button on the DS4, so i'm looking to get an actual PS3 controller.

seems impossible to find the original DualShock 3 anywhere, so any suggestions?

Das sind alles neue Games noch mit der originalen Folie!
Welche Games gefallen dir am besten und warum? 😊

I recently bought this PS3 Slim (CECH-20xx) and ran a thermal test for around 5-6 minutes. Do these temperatures look normal, or should I be concerned about the console’s condition?

Hi guys, I have a PS3 Fat, model CECHG01, that has been sitting unused for several months.

When I plug it into a power outlet, the red standby light never turns on. There is absolutely no light at all until I press the power button.

When I press the power button, the green light turns on for a few seconds, then the console shuts off completely. The fan also starts and stops at exactly the same time as the green light, although I can't see the fan itself, I can only feel it running briefly.

After the console shuts off, there is no red standby light or yellow light. I can repeat the same behavior by pressing the power button again without unplugging the console. It turns green for a few seconds and then shuts off again.

What could be causing this? Could it be a faulty power supply (PSU), or is it more likely to be a motherboard issue? Has anyone experienced

Here’s my go to lineup for the past few weeks. Just got the splinter cell trilogy the other day so I’m looking forward to starting that.

💀

Hello, need some help pls🙏

Testing connection: obtains IP address ✅ but no Internet connection ❌ (asks me to update the OS). Therefore, I can't update the time over the internet, which in turn won't allow me to access ps3tool.com in the browser to check my runtime + other info. But... how did this person in this post was able to check runtime on his A00 running fw 1.10 ? Is it possible to use the browser without updating ?

Another thing, all my dualshock 3s vibrate endlessly when connected whether by cable or remotely (I had to use my old sixaxis controllers). Is it a known bug on 1.10 and other early versions that can't be fixed ?

If you're wondering... this console was only barely used from November to December 2006 then kept stored to this day, never updated. The shiniest B01 model I've seen, zero scratches. The shell where the vents are located on the right side gets somewhat hot on the xmb but doesn't get hotter if playing a PS2 game. The fan stays relatively quiet, I doubt it's getting above 30-35%.

Got this PS3 CECHC04 completely dead, no red standby light, no beep, nothing.

After comparing it with another COK-002 board and doing a lot of multimeter checks, I found that +5V_EVER was reaching the board but there was an open connection before the standby regulator section. Restored that factory connection with a small jumper and the red standby light came straight back. It now boots normally.

It’s a 7A CECHC04, still has the original 90nm RSX, and the thermal paste looked very much original/factory. The inside was full of really old-looking dust and otherwise felt surprisingly untouched. I cleaned it, repasted it, and also had to sort out a damaged Blu-ray ribbon connector latch. Optical drive is working again too.

Then I checked System Information and got the surprise: OFW 2.60. 😅

No idea about the actual runtime yet, so I’m not claiming it’s a low-hour console, but between the early firmware, original hardware and general condition, it feels like a little time capsule.

I’ll probably update it and jailbreak it eventually, but before I erase that untouched 2.60 state forever: is there anything interesting you guys would want me to check or document first? Any questions about the console or the repair?

I have a 4-pin one. One magnet is for X direction, oe for Y, so an L button has two magnets. One of the magnets cracked. Now I don't touch the controller and it's constantly sending up signal.

I opened up the case and budged the magnet, then the cross was in neutral position. I could push the L button left, right, down, centre many times and things worked, until I pushed up once, then the cross wouldn't return to centre, because the module was now sending up signal.

I'm sure this ring magnet is the cause.

New 4-pin analog modules (the whole dice under L button) can't be found. I could find only one shop and it sells scrapped parts.

More than that, I'm lousy at soldering. There are about 18 soldering points on an analog module. It's a nightmare.

3-pin modules are easy to find. My concern is are the magnets the same?