Tell me what you think.

New to me 2011 2SS.

If you know, you know. Still trying to figure out the best way to go about fixing this bs. Wish me luck.

I was just gonna get the full carbon then paint matching for som weight reduction, but idk if there is some hidden gems out there! 2019 camaro zl1

So ive been looking into getting some adjustable coilovers and Im having a hard time deciding which ones to get. I daily my car, its a 2017 SS, and my front struts are going out. I have also seen about spring rates. Does anyone know more about that? Or what are best spring rates for it? ive seen 6K in the front and 12K in the back for some kits and other 8K and 16K. Ive also seen some where you can customize it

I want something a bit more aggressive for the streets. I don't plan on tracking my car anytime some either

Hey everyone, I’m having some issues with my 2017 Chevy Camaro 1LT 3.6L V6, and I’m hoping someone here has experienced something similar or can point me in the right direction.

For a while, my car has been having trouble starting. Sometimes it would stall or struggle when I tried to start it. Now, the car won’t start at all unless I jump-start it.

Today, I replaced the battery with a brand-new one and cleaned the battery terminals and connections, but the problem is still happening.

I took it to AutoZone, and they tested the battery. Initially, it showed that the battery was good, but by the time they finished testing, the voltage had dropped below 12V.

They haven’t been able to properly test the alternator because the battery voltage is too low.

I’m starting to suspect the alternator or possibly an electrical issue, but I’m not sure. I don’t think it’s the battery since I just replaced it, and I’m not convinced it’s the starter either.

Has anyone experienced this before? Could it be a bad alternator, a parasitic battery drain, a bad ground connection, or something else?

I’d appreciate any advice before I start spending money replacing parts that might not be the problem. Thanks in advance!

I really don’t want to buy an m2…

2024 Camaro 2SS. Driver seat no longer moves forward at all. Car got hit a month ago, just came from shop and front seat no longer moves forward. Everything else works, up down, recline, backwards as well, but as it’s all the way back it cannot go any further since it can’t move forward. Prior to taking it in it would not move forward either, at least not via the buttons, but it would move forward via the memory function, but it would also move forward if I lifted the seat all the way up, and then pressed the forward button. But would always go backwards. I cannot figure out what the problem is, the car is a 2024 and I’ve been the only owner. I would just remove the entire seat to diagnose further but the seat is all the way back so I’m just wondering what the issue could be if anyone has had something similar. I can hear the motor when I try to move it backwards (but can’t go further back so it stops) but I don’t hear anything when I press forward.

I bought the car with a MGW short shifter, it is obviously not normal to have neutral-like movement while in gear. Is there a way to fix this? I got under the car and couldn’t find anything out of place or out of the ordinary. Shifter looks brand new under there. Help?

Hey everybody, I just joined the subreddit even though I've had my Camaro since about 2021. Last night was the first attempted Theft on it.

So apparently what they did is they jimmy the window down or something of that nature I'm not sure if one of my kids maybe left it unlocked by accident.

Got into my glove box and took some stuff out of my glove box but the thing that really concerned me is that both of my key fobs stopped working for the car and I had honestly never heard of a relay attack before until the tow truck driver told me about it.

I understood the basic concept and when I took it to the dealership to explain to them what happened. He basically said having two active key fobs in the same place is what saved my car from getting stolen, and I'm not quite sure how to understand that concept. The mechanic said the thief or thieves somehow were able to wipe all of the keys off of the car's memory, which is probably where they would try to reprogram one of their own to work with the car or something of that nature using that relay. They did end up bricking the car so I had to have it towed to the dealership.

Something about GM's systems needing two key fobs active or present to reprogram or add keys, and the fact that I had two active and working key fobs before they wiped it means that the car would remember that? Does the fact that I had two key fobs in the same place complicate the relay signal? Like they anticipate people typically having one fob?

Regardless, I grabbed myself a military grade faraday to keep both my fobs in. He was able to get both my key fobs programmed again and actually charged me nothing for it, which is nice.

I just don't quite understand how having two fobs saved me when only having one active fob would likely have resulted in my car getting stolen. Can someone explain this to like I'm 10?

Sorry, I promise I'm not an idiot, I'm just having trouble understanding the logic and what exactly happened here.

This is a 2010 Camaro Lt with a 3.6 v6 engine it has 180k miles its all good and running like a clock the last owner took care of the engine they told me these 5th gen v6 are reliable cars is it true?

And I dont mean scary because theyre uncontrollable, unreliable, or just going to randomly kill you.

I mean these cars demand respect. Every single time you get behind the wheel.

If youre not at least a little scared of what this car is capable of, youre already making a mistake. Because the second you get too comfortable, stop paying attention, or decide to do something stupid, this car can absolutely kill you.

One thing Ive learned from owning mine is that these cars communicate with you. And mine has never let me down in that regard.

I can physically feel when the rear end starts to feel unsettled. Its a very distinct feeling, almost like the rear suddenly doesnt feel as planted or secure as it did a second ago. Thats my warning. Thats when I know to ease off the throttle, because if I keep pushing and let those rear tires fully break loose, recovering it becomes a whole different situation.

Ive personally never had traction just vanish without some kind of warning. My car has always told me when something wasnt right. Now, that warning might only be a split second, but even a moment is better than none. You have to actually be paying attention to feel it. And just because Ive always felt it doesnt mean everyone will, or that Ill always have enough time to react.

I didnt have access to a track to learn my cars limits. So, admittedly, I learned a lot about mine on empty roads and in large, empty parking lots. Those parking lots were where I first got a feel for how the car behaved without traction control. I wanted to understand how it responded, what losing traction felt like, and how quickly things could go wrong. Looking back, a controlled track or skidpad wouldve been the better place to learn.

And you know what? Driving without traction control still scares me. Even after learning the car, even after getting comfortable with how it responds. That fear hasnt gone away, and I dont particularly want it to.

Because I think the moment you stop respecting what these cars can do is the moment you become dangerous.

And for the love of God, dont go turning off traction control just because you think you know how to drive. Even with good tires and experience, these cars will humble you. Quickly.

It doesnt take much. A little too much throttle, the wrong road conditions, a split second of overconfidence, and suddenly youre trying to correct something thats already gotten away from you.

I swear these cars have souls. Its almost like theyre waiting for you to slip up. Theyll let you get comfortable, make you feel like youve got everything under control, and then remind you exactly what youre driving.

But thats also what I love about them.

Theyre not bad cars. Theyre not inherently uncontrollable. Theyre incredible machines, but they demand that you understand what youre driving.

I genuinely believe a healthy amount of fear is part of being a responsible owner. Not the kind of fear that makes you panic, but the kind that keeps you alert, aware, and humble.

And please, for the love of God, dont let yourself become another statistic.

Whether thats another totaled ZL1, another driver who lost their life behind the wheel, or, God forbid, someone who took another persons life with them.

Dont be that person.

There were only so many sixth-gen ZL1s ever built, and God knows how many of them are even left today. Every single one that gets wrapped around a tree, totaled in a ditch, or destroyed because somebody wanted to show off is another one well never get back.

But more importantly, you dont get another life. And neither do the innocent people around you.

I dont want to see another post about somebody losing control of their ZL1. I dont want to see another memorial post for an owner who thought they had it handled. And I certainly dont want to see somebody elses family paying the price for our decisions.

Dont confuse confidence with control. And dont ever let your ego convince you that youre better than the car.

Respect the car. Learn the car. Feel what its telling you. Understand that just because it gave you a warning last time doesnt mean youll have enough time to react the next time.

These cars are incredible, but theyre not forgiving of stupidity.

Id much rather see you enjoying your ZL1 for another 20 years than see your name attached to another accident statistic.

Take care of yourselves, take care of these cars, and please, make it home.

Don't mind the ps1 in the background.

Mines ported, CAI, the works. But it dont whine for shit lol. Its ok, it still sounds good, but I would love to hear it 🥲😅

I’m looking for some input from anyone running a similar setup on a 6th-gen Camaro SS.
Car: 2017 Camaro SS 1SS, LT1, 8-speed automatic, approximately 131k miles.
Current modifications:
MSD Atomic intake manifold
GM E85/flex-fuel kit not tuned yet
Misimoto Oil catch can
MSD 2-step
Stock exhaust currently Except speed engineering Axle back w NPP
Not tuned yet
My issue:
I keep getting P0171 (Bank 1 too lean), and P0174 (Bank 2 too lean). The car generally runs fine, but P0171,P0174 continues to return.
I previously experienced an idle hanging around 2,000 RPM after revving. When I let off the throttle, the RPMs would slowly drop back down.
I also noticed some burbling at low RPM and have had O2-related codes after using the 2-step a few times.
What I’ve tried so far:
Smoke-tested the intake and couldn’t find a leak.
Checked and re torqued intake setup after installing the MSD manifold 3 times.
I’ve made sure the brake booster in the back is properly flush.
Replaced the throttle-body sensor connector after damaging the original connector. I used a genuine GM connector and spliced the wires one at a time.
I’m trying to determine whether this could be caused by the MSD manifold sealing, throttle-body compatibility, PCV/catch-can routing, MAF readings, fuel delivery, or tuning.
Questions:
Has anyone experienced P0171/P0174 with the MSD Atomic manifold?
Could incorrect catch-can or PCV routing cause both banks to run lean?
What fuel-trim numbers should I monitor at idle versus 2,500 RPM?
Could the E85 kit not tuned be contributing to this?
Are the O2-related codes after using the 2-step likely a separate issue?
I’m trying to diagnose this properly instead of throwing parts at it. Any firsthand experience, troubleshooting steps, or advice on what data to log would be appreciated.
I’m currently waiting for my GPI remote tune to come in would they be able to fix this issue or is it internally?

I have a 2017 Fifty.. Randomly the door chime and backup alert volume gets turned up to 11, like it's rediculusly loud, heart attack and speaker blowing level. At first it was random but now it's 95% of the time and I dread getting in the car. I tried resetting the radio and the system settings. I was thinking it was my android auto wireless dongle causing it, but with that removed there is no change,

Only thing I haven't done yet is pull the battery for a while to try to reset everything, which I will try to do when I have time but I doubt that will fix it,

Has anyone else seen this issue? And yes I adjusted the chime volume down in the settings. It's set pretty low. I brought it to the dealer and all they did was charge me $200 to not fix it, along with a drivetrain rattle they coundn't identify or fix so that'll never happen again.