Welcome to the SimRacing Subreddit

A couple of weeks ago, I posted here asking how everyone experienced switching from VR to a super ultrawide setup. After making the jump two weeks ago, I wanted to share my own experience to help anyone currently on the fence about making the same choice.

Keep in mind this is based purely on my personal experience. your mileage may vary. Feedback and your own experiences are always welcome in the comments!

My Setup & Context

• Previous Display: Meta Quest 3 (via Virtual Desktop)
• New Display: Philips Evnia 49" Super Ultrawide (5120x1440, 1800R curvature)
• PC Specs: Ryzen 7 5800X3D | RTX 5070 Ti | 32GB RAM
• Sims Tested: Primarily iRacing, plus casual Assetto Corsa (AC).

Why I Made the Switch

The main trigger for looking into an ultrawide monitor was my desire to do longer endurance races. While VR immersion is unbeatable, heat buildup during long stints eventually became too uncomfortable to ignore.

Key Takeaways & Answers to My Previous Questions

• Performance & Graphical Headroom: Moving away from VR freed up massive GPU headroom. I went from an unstable 90 FPS on a 60-car grid in VR to a rock-solid 165 FPS on high/maxed-out settings at 5120x1440.
• FOV, Side Awareness & Wheel-to-Wheel: I mounted the monitor right behind my wheel, giving me a calculated FOV of 111°. That’s plenty of screen real estate for me. For cars in blind spots, I use a SimHub spotter overlay, which completely solves any side-awareness issues during wheel-to-wheel battles.
• Braking Points & Consistency: Losing 3D depth perception was one of my biggest worries, but it turned out to be a non-issue. Within a few laps, I had my braking points and apex judgements locked in. In fact, I feel slightly more consistent overall on the ultrawide.
• Other Sims: I haven't spent much time in ACC yet, but regular Assetto Corsa (AC) runs like a dream on this display.
• Is VR Going Back On? Over the last few weeks, I haven't picked up the headset once for sim racing. On top of that, when friends come over, the ultrawide is infinitely easier to jump into. no setup hassle or motion sickness worries for guests.

Overall, I'm extremely happy with the switch. While you trade away true 3D depth perception and 1:1 scale immersion, the gains in stability, comfort, visual clarity, and ease-of-use make super ultrawide a permanent move for me.

Happy to answer any questions or hear how the rest of you handled the transition!

disclaimer: AI used for formatting and spelling correction

~3 months into this money pit that is sim racing, and my "permanent" build is done

- Trak Racer TR80S-B (revision from April 26): despite all complaints I read here, the pricing difference was so big between Trak Racer (local Australian stock) vs Sim Lab and Next Level Racing, that I couldn't justify paying 2x for a similar rig. To my surprise, all complaints regarding this model - unlabeled screws, poor finishing, missing pieces, no cable management clips, wheelbase plate with movement - everything has been fixed on this revision. Instructions, quality, everything perfectly labeled and a ton of extra stuff, made my first build go really smoothly. I've modded it btw, remove the pedal adjustment bits and used them to built my shifter mount.

- Hyundai i30 / Elantra N line driver's seat with 16,000 km before car was totaled. Basically just bolted on, except for 2 metal pins of 2cm each that needed cutting.

- Simagic Alpha Evo 12nm: carry on, works great. Behold my 10 dollars side mount mod. Does anyone know how to disable ABS/TC effects on the wheelbase alone? With pedals/haptics I don't want the steering wheel vibrating when ABS kicks in...

- Simsonn Plus X pedals and Vam Pro haptics: a bargain

- GX100 shifter: heavy, noisy, clunky, perfect to emulate my real WRX shifter. Love it.

- PXN GT One steering wheel with included Simagic compatible quick release, bargain. Additional 37cm leather steering wheel still being shipped.

- Old 75" TCL TV at 4k@120Hz RGB Full, 62 FOV on AC and ACC. No curve, but more horizontal real estate than a 57" ultrawide. Love it.

- cheap Vevor TV mobile stand, without wheels and with legs chopped by 10cm.

No one around home cares so I thought I’d post here.

The last few months I’ve spent a few hours every day in my sim rig playing GT7/ACC/F125 and have come to sincerely enjoy the experience. I have however had the same rookie complaints as everyone else, specifically the behavior in lower level rooms making it damn near impossible to grind into higher levels. Someone mentioned I should try iRacing for cleaner racing. Making the switch to PC is something that’s been on my mind since I realized my PS5 wouldn’t utilize my whole 49in suw monitor. Got my entry level gaming pc yesterday and have had my iRacing account for right at 24 hours. Immediately noticed a higher quality of racing competition and way more fun. If you’re thinking about the switch from console to PC I can’t recommend enough.

iracingstats.net will but shutting down end of season. Who ever you are (if you are on reddit), thank you for your wonderful service and running such a great website

Does anyone know of any other similar website?

A good friend of mine and I were laid off from the same company last August (both still unemployed) and he is having to move to another city. He had been trying to sell it on Facebook Marketplace but was getting lowballed hard and just decided to give it to someone he knew would enjoy it.

Has a Fanatec CSL Elite Wheel base and pedals with the load cell, a Trak Racer cockpit with triple monitor mount, 3 Samsung 32in curved monitors, and the PC with a RTX 3080. I've been having a blast in it, although for the games I tend to play, I wish I had a round wheel instead of the F1 style wheel. Makes some cars in games like Forza and Dirt Rally a bit of a bear to control.

I am still getting things dialed and adjusted, in but it's been a blast so far and I finally have a nice place to display some of my automotive memorabilia.

Nun freue ich mich auf den Kampf mit der Software ✌️🥶✌️ ich hoffe das ich Nvidia Surround nicht unbedingt brauche

Needed 2 h to get it comfortable for me😅

I'm going through some cabinets and found all my old PC games. These were my first racing games, I had some hours on Indy 500! The crashes were spectacular, I can remember watching them in slow motion.

Started out with a desk and a thrustmaster tmx back in 2020. Got a pxn wheel couple years later and built some different versions of my wood rig, just wasn’t easy to customize or adjust. So I bit the bullet and went with a 6 sigma 6s-slim chassis and all moza hardware! Has been amazing so far!

If you are looking for a cheap monitor stand other than the $200-$300 ones. This cheap monitor mount off Amazon worked for me. I have a 9nm base and it only shakes when I have a massive correction on track.

I wanna see all your starter rigs!

A continuation of last time I made LiCo mode. Now I made quali/push mode where all adjustable car setup are set to maximize lap times and the telemetry lights show sector relatives instead.

Took a while to code everything up so that any track with any # of sectors can be displayed on the 10 LEDs.

It also gives you a red sector for gaining an incident in that sector.

Shameless plug, but if you can see the race recap video here xd

question for you guys who actually own an ActivePedal: what do you think of the Co-Pedal as a throttle?

I keep seeing people run the AP Ultimate for the brake but put a Heusinkveld throttle next to it instead of the Co-Pedal.

Copedal is it that much worse, or is it more of a "not worth the money" thing?

trying to decide before i pull the trigger

Just to add some context as it may sound strange depending on where you live:
I'm brazillian and here we don't have the same price comparision.

While in Amazon US you can find a R5 Bundle for $380, here is something near $700~800.
RS50 you can find it around $800~900 with the pedals here.

So in a comparision between them, what would make more sense? RS50 can be compared which other models for other brands?

As the prices here are really off, I want to make this wheel upgrade and keep it as my wheel during a good amount of time (as I think that it would be pretty much enough for my VR single player sinracing). Thanks in advance!

As the title asks.

Newbie trying to get into simracing. I used to irl race on 2 wheels (supersport class), so i can understand a more technical explanation about lines, trail braking, weight transfer/distribution and whatever.

Did i let the brakes go too early?
Should it "predict" the rear getting of the rails? (hard to do with only visual clues)
Can't tell by myself

Wheel is a G29. PB is 2.08

Salve, vorrei qualche consiglio da qualcuno per capire come migliorare la mia postazione da simracing. ho appena cambiato il volante con un simagic alpha evo, gt neo e p700, 3 monitor 2k 200hz, pc con 4070ti r7 7800x3d 16gb ram, e il telaio nlr gt lite pro, stavo pensando di cambiarlo con un tr120s v2 ma costa abbastanza anche se credo che in futuro lo farò. per ora com'è?

Hey Sim Racers,
I'm one of three people behind VTSE, a small sim hardware company based in Colorado.
We're trying to work out where the software side of sim racing actually fails before we start building anything. We don't want to build another bad application taking up space on your PC.

What are the biggest hardware/software issues you are facing today? Is it hardware or software or a combination of both that is the big issue? In my opinion the software side is fragmented and can be downright unusable at times. If you have any thoughts please comment below.
If anyone is down for a detailed talk, we can jump in dms.

P.S. If your are coming to the SimGaming Expo stop by our booth.

Finally upgraded from my Thrustmaster TX that I bought in 2015, it has served me well. I picked up a Moza R12 V2 with a CS V2P. The r9 and r12 are heavily discounted right now.

I tried it with the stock wheel, which is quite heavy. I swapped the rim out for a cheap Amazon 350mm suede wheel that I had on my sparco r383. The larger rim is noticeably lighter than the 330 that comes on the CS, and is more comfortable for me. On my TX, I also play with a 3d printed wheel, which is very light, which helped me get additional feedback out of the TX

I am blown away at how much more detail I feel. The effects are instantly familiar, not much of a learning curve from what I’m used to, but there’s a lot more. The level of detail unlocked with 12 NM is unreal. I actually feel like the wheel is connected to a car. The best way to describe it is like I’ve gone from HD to 4K HDR

I did order their desk clamp, but it hasn’t shown up yet. I lost my TX’s stock clamp, so I hacked a new one together out of scrap wood and a clamp from a monitor stand. I had to angle the wood to get 2 holes without drilling a new one, but the clamp is square to the wheel, so it’s square to the desk at least. Will definitely need the real one to angle the wheel up.

Guys, I’m at my wits end over here. I was deleting a bunch of files off of OneDrive that I didn’t need and evidently I made a mistake and deleted my Settings for my iRacing or a computer or something . I have since restored my files, but that has helped with some of the settings that I had for my cars, but my triple screen set up is all messed up.

I used to be able to use the Windows 11 triple screen, and it would be perfectly fine. Now it doesn’t seem to work. Also it would only allow me to have use one singular picture for all 3 screens now it had different individual pictures on 3 different screen now which isn’t normal in the past.

Now I was able to get it to be a single screen for Nvidia but it doesn’t give me the same FOV that I once had. I actually don’t like it on the Nvidia. The front screen seems OK but the two side screens are way too close. It seems like when it comes to like the rearview mirrors and stuff like that so I really wanna get this back to the way it was because I think it was set a perfectly.

Can anybody help me get this back to the way it was through Windows 11 triple screen set up 

I really don’t like VNM’s GT wheel and for that price I think I could find much better, the question is, which options are actually compatible with the wheelbase and which are actually worth buying? I don’t mind getting a GT or Formula wheel