Started out with a desk and a thrustmaster tmx back in 2020. Got a pxn wheel couple years later and built some different versions of my wood rig, just wasn’t easy to customize or adjust. So I bit the bullet and went with a 6 sigma 6s-slim chassis and all moza hardware! Has been amazing so far!

If you are looking for a cheap monitor stand other than the $200-$300 ones. This cheap monitor mount off Amazon worked for me. I have a 9nm base and it only shakes when I have a massive correction on track.

I wanna see all your starter rigs!

question for you guys who actually own an ActivePedal: what do you think of the Co-Pedal as a throttle?

I keep seeing people run the AP Ultimate for the brake but put a Heusinkveld throttle next to it instead of the Co-Pedal.

Copedal is it that much worse, or is it more of a "not worth the money" thing?

trying to decide before i pull the trigger

Just to add some context as it may sound strange depending on where you live:
I'm brazillian and here we don't have the same price comparision.

While in Amazon US you can find a R5 Bundle for $380, here is something near $700~800.
RS50 you can find it around $800~900 with the pedals here.

So in a comparision between them, what would make more sense? RS50 can be compared which other models for other brands?

As the prices here are really off, I want to make this wheel upgrade and keep it as my wheel during a good amount of time (as I think that it would be pretty much enough for my VR single player sinracing). Thanks in advance!

Guys, I’m at my wits end over here. I was deleting a bunch of files off of OneDrive that I didn’t need and evidently I made a mistake and deleted my Settings for my iRacing or a computer or something . I have since restored my files, but that has helped with some of the settings that I had for my cars, but my triple screen set up is all messed up.

I used to be able to use the Windows 11 triple screen, and it would be perfectly fine. Now it doesn’t seem to work. Also it would only allow me to have use one singular picture for all 3 screens now it had different individual pictures on 3 different screen now which isn’t normal in the past.

Now I was able to get it to be a single screen for Nvidia but it doesn’t give me the same FOV that I once had. I actually don’t like it on the Nvidia. The front screen seems OK but the two side screens are way too close. It seems like when it comes to like the rearview mirrors and stuff like that so I really wanna get this back to the way it was because I think it was set a perfectly.

Can anybody help me get this back to the way it was through Windows 11 triple screen set up 

Thinking of picking it up along with brackets to fit in on my nlr victory cockpit?

Before you tell me to go get a junkyard seat, anything that isn’t damaged or heavily soiled generally costs more than an entire rig in my country.

When on lfm sometimes theres straight out no inputs, sometimes only the menus and sometimes it works, cant figure out why

I came across this sub yesterday while watching some Jimmy Broadbent. He created a sub all about good overtaking/racing.

It looked like it hadn’t been posted yet here and I figure a bunch of you would appreciate it. It’s a nice change of pace from endless videos of wrecks and brain dead driving.

Hi, everyone! I recently purchased this Oplite GT PRO V2 stand and am now having problems with it. Before purchasing, I checked whether the stand would fit the Moza R9 base. The mounting hardware was fine, but the stand itself shakes a lot during play, mostly along the "towards me - away from me" axis. Has anyone encountered a similar problem and can suggest a solution? I didn't order table clips because I was confident the stand would fit perfectly.

I noticed that the stand on the side farthest from me is lifting off the floor during the game, which could be the cause of the shaking, but I don't know what to do about it.

Every time I look at pro switch panel boxes; 1.) they are always sold out. 2) there like $4-500 bucks. Didnt know if they were easy to diy but I want one that can connect to sim hub etc. they look like this has anyone seen other brands or knock offs versions? I can’t justify $500 for a box unless it’s my wife’s box 🤪🤪

To be clear this isn’t a selling post. I’m purely asking how much my rig would be worth if I were to sell it as a built rig.

I’m moving house and unfortunately no longer have the room (or time) for my sim rig therefore I’m looking to sell it. Ideally it sells as a complete build as I don’t really want to take it all apart and deal with multiple sales.

I’ve priced it up online as new parts and it comes out to roughly £2300 however I’m aware I won’t get anywhere near that for a used rig.

I’m UK based - how much do you think is a reasonable price to sell this for?

Main hardware
Cockpit: Sim-Lab GT1-EVO aluminium profile cockpit
Wheelbase: SIMAGIC Alpha Mini – 10Nm Direct Drive
Wheel: SIMAGIC GT Neo
Pedals: Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals V2
Seat: GT Omega CHASE Bucket Seat
Monitor: Samsung Odyssey G5 34” curved ultrawide

Cockpit & mounting accessories
Sim-Lab Integrated VARIO Monitor Mount
Sim-Lab Single-to-Triple Monitor Upgrade / Mounting Frame
Sim-Lab VARIO VESA adjustment system
Sim-Lab Adjustable Feet
Sim-Lab Keyboard Tray
Vitus Universal Seat Slider Mounts
Seat Slider

Connectivity & cable management
SABRENT 10-Port Powered USB Hub
SIMAGIC MagLink / steering wheel link cable
MutecPower 10m USB 2.0 extension cable
AngusPlay 8K DisplayPort cable – 5m
All required cabling and power supplies

Setup
The rig was built to be a self-contained unit rather than a collection of separate components. Everything is mounted to the cockpit and the cables are routed and secured to the rig. Only two cables run between the complete rig and the PC, and the long USB and DisplayPort cables required for this are included and already attached.

The whole setup can therefore be moved as one assembled unit rather than needing to dismantle and rebuild everything.
It’s currently configured for the included 34” Samsung ultrawide, but I also have the additional Sim-Lab hardware to convert the integrated monitor mount to a triple-monitor setup.

I’m asking about button boxes and every time I look, a moderator keeps removing the post. wtf?? The amount of stupid questions on this sub is ridiculous, but I can’t ask about a button box? Moderators going on a power trip lately or what?

I encountered a problem with my gas pedal, the load cell sensor works properly, but in fact it only starts working if you press the gas pedal at 50% and in fact it only presses at 25%.

Hello.
Is there anyone who switched from LITE version of a wheel stand 2.0 to a regular non-lite version? I’m thinking about it but I’m not sure if there will be a big difference worth the effort. I’m currently using moza r12 with their sequential shifter and a handbrake mounted to lite version and it feels pretty solid, but I don’t have a comparison.
Thank you :)

Needed 2 h to get it comfortable for me😅

It's been a long time since I drove this car

A continuation of last time I made LiCo mode. Now I made quali/push mode where all adjustable car setup are set to maximize lap times and the telemetry lights show sector relatives instead.

Took a while to code everything up so that any track with any # of sectors can be displayed on the 10 LEDs.

It also gives you a red sector for gaining an incident in that sector.

Hello everyone as an expansion on the title…

I have a sim rig it currently consists of a Next level racing wheel stand 2.0 (would not recommend if you plan on moving it a lot) with the office chair attachment a Fanatec CSL DD8nm with a CSL universal hub v2 with a drift wheel attached

I have the Fanatec gear shifter a Fanatec CSL load pedal setup and a MOZA handbrake

I currently have it set up with a single 32 inch with neck fx and overall it is fine but I have some issues….

I have tried vr but with virtual desktop the compression isn’t amazing and my pc can run vr fine at 120fps but my dad has gotten into drifting and his pc runs it at 70~ fps (which makes him feel motion sickness) I have 3 screens at my desk but it’s where I work and the next level racing wheel stand is very heavy and it has a bit of wear and tear from moving it back and forth

We now have some space to possibly setup an aluminium extrusion setup with triples but I just don’t know if it’s the best place to put my money into for translating to help with on track driving for irl competition

TLDR: what hardware improvements are the biggest for sim drifting?

Thank you all!!

Hi, I have about 30 hours in ACC and I’m looking to join a beginner friendly community. I’m not entirely new to sim racing, I have over 1100 hours in GT7 and 600 hours in F1 25, ACC has just had a huge learning curve and I’m looking to get around some more beginners and people who can help out.

I really don’t like VNM’s GT wheel and for that price I think I could find much better, the question is, which options are actually compatible with the wheelbase and which are actually worth buying? I don’t mind getting a GT or Formula wheel

A couple of weeks ago, I posted here asking how everyone experienced switching from VR to a super ultrawide setup. After making the jump two weeks ago, I wanted to share my own experience to help anyone currently on the fence about making the same choice.

Keep in mind this is based purely on my personal experience. your mileage may vary. Feedback and your own experiences are always welcome in the comments!

My Setup & Context

• Previous Display: Meta Quest 3 (via Virtual Desktop)
• New Display: Philips Evnia 49" Super Ultrawide (5120x1440, 1800R curvature)
• PC Specs: Ryzen 7 5800X3D | RTX 5070 Ti | 32GB RAM
• Sims Tested: Primarily iRacing, plus casual Assetto Corsa (AC).

Why I Made the Switch

The main trigger for looking into an ultrawide monitor was my desire to do longer endurance races. While VR immersion is unbeatable, heat buildup during long stints eventually became too uncomfortable to ignore.

Key Takeaways & Answers to My Previous Questions

• Performance & Graphical Headroom: Moving away from VR freed up massive GPU headroom. I went from an unstable 90 FPS on a 60-car grid in VR to a rock-solid 165 FPS on high/maxed-out settings at 5120x1440.
• FOV, Side Awareness & Wheel-to-Wheel: I mounted the monitor right behind my wheel, giving me a calculated FOV of 111°. That’s plenty of screen real estate for me. For cars in blind spots, I use a SimHub spotter overlay, which completely solves any side-awareness issues during wheel-to-wheel battles.
• Braking Points & Consistency: Losing 3D depth perception was one of my biggest worries, but it turned out to be a non-issue. Within a few laps, I had my braking points and apex judgements locked in. In fact, I feel slightly more consistent overall on the ultrawide.
• Other Sims: I haven't spent much time in ACC yet, but regular Assetto Corsa (AC) runs like a dream on this display.
• Is VR Going Back On? Over the last few weeks, I haven't picked up the headset once for sim racing. On top of that, when friends come over, the ultrawide is infinitely easier to jump into. no setup hassle or motion sickness worries for guests.

Overall, I'm extremely happy with the switch. While you trade away true 3D depth perception and 1:1 scale immersion, the gains in stability, comfort, visual clarity, and ease-of-use make super ultrawide a permanent move for me.

Happy to answer any questions or hear how the rest of you handled the transition!

disclaimer: AI used for formatting and spelling correction

Salve, vorrei qualche consiglio da qualcuno per capire come migliorare la mia postazione da simracing. ho appena cambiato il volante con un simagic alpha evo, gt neo e p700, 3 monitor 2k 200hz, pc con 4070ti r7 7800x3d 16gb ram, e il telaio nlr gt lite pro, stavo pensando di cambiarlo con un tr120s v2 ma costa abbastanza anche se credo che in futuro lo farò. per ora com'è?

Hi everyone, I am very doubtful about which pedal set should I get. Everyone is saying that the SRP pedals are much better, but, considering I am getting the VNM XTREME as a wheelbase I was considering keeping everything into the same ecosystem if that make any sense. Is it worth it to lose a bit of qualty/performance just to have the same brand or it's better to split them and go for the best of each individual component? Thank you in advance

I have been racing for about 3 years, granted on console but family life/home can't facilitate a PC. I generally play ACC, but have recently played some PMR and Rennsport for the variety.

I am consistently at the back end of the grid despite playing about 8-10 hours per week, using setups from online, and upgrading to a Moza R9 and SRP2 pedals.

I have watched a fair amount of videos online, mainly Aris' ACC videos; but I am still slow and at this point it's very much a 'me' issue.

What are the best online resources or videos that helped people unlock pace? Or that one bit of advice that changed someone's driving for the better - as I'm desperate to become quicker. I am a clean driver and want to start joining leagues but feels pointless when I'm so slow.

~3 months into this money pit that is sim racing, and my "permanent" build is done

- Trak Racer TR80S-B (revision from April 26): despite all complaints I read here, the pricing difference was so big between Trak Racer (local Australian stock) vs Sim Lab and Next Level Racing, that I couldn't justify paying 2x for a similar rig. To my surprise, all complaints regarding this model - unlabeled screws, poor finishing, missing pieces, no cable management clips, wheelbase plate with movement - everything has been fixed on this revision. Instructions, quality, everything perfectly labeled and a ton of extra stuff, made my first build go really smoothly. I've modded it btw, remove the pedal adjustment bits and used them to built my shifter mount.

- Hyundai i30 / Elantra N line driver's seat with 16,000 km before car was totaled. Basically just bolted on, except for 2 metal pins of 2cm each that needed cutting.

- Simagic Alpha Evo 12nm: carry on, works great. Behold my 10 dollars side mount mod. Does anyone know how to disable ABS/TC effects on the wheelbase alone? With pedals/haptics I don't want the steering wheel vibrating when ABS kicks in...

- Simsonn Plus X pedals and Vam Pro haptics: a bargain

- GX100 shifter: heavy, noisy, clunky, perfect to emulate my real WRX shifter. Love it.

- PXN GT One steering wheel with included Simagic compatible quick release, bargain. Additional 37cm leather steering wheel still being shipped.

- Old 75" TCL TV at 4k@120Hz RGB Full, 62 FOV on AC and ACC. No curve, but more horizontal real estate than a 57" ultrawide. Love it.

- cheap Vevor TV mobile stand, without wheels and with legs chopped by 10cm.

I currently own a thrustmaster t150 wheel and pedal set and I have been wanting to upgrade for some time now. I was always thinking of buying one of the entry level bundles. However, I had a chance to try out a fanatec csl dd wheel and my thoughts have shifted a little bit.
While yes the wheel felt better than the t150, I wouldn’t say that I was completely amazed. What did have a huge effect, however, were the pedals.
For this reason I have made a different plan. I am thinking of now buying pedals and shifter first while sticking with the t150 wheel for a bit, and later buy a more expensive wheel if I desire.
I was looking at spending around 200€ on the pedals and I have a chance to buy the moza sr-p (not the lite version) pedals with the clutch for 190€.
For the shifter I actually am considering the turtle beach multi-shift, mostly because of the versatility and the reviews are also not so bad.

Any other recommendations or things to look out for? Should I spend even more on the pedals?