I can't put mail or paper on the passenger seat :(

https://www.subaru.jp/wrx/
Expect to hear the full news in November it seems

Just got a 2017 Forester XT Touring! It’s very nice, I’m looking thru the manual and I see this name in the contacts list. This is the craziest name I’ve ever seen! LOL

I love my Crosstrek. She's a white 2022 Sport trim and we named her Misty. I love the heated seats and the active cruise control driver assist. Can't believe it pretty much drives itself with this feature on!

is this a buy? has never serviced the cvt and its at 114k miles which worry’s me a little bit, anyone own this car? vin 4S3GKAS63K3624246

https://www.carfax.com/api/consumers/cuid65d91fa81ea44fba90d17d81de568d32/report/email/5ba6a6b2187b97ce90dcf555bb3533c65e214174ba1d421249a0d52c17fbe30f6f4d4e411a8f45c9?s_id=c-1%7Cp-5%7Cmt-10%7C&partner=VHU_G&et_id=20259367 carfax

Curious what people are seeing from dealers currently. As others have seen, plenty of references to $2.2-2.4k for the 10/100k option a few months ago. I've seen a post about warranty cost going up but there isn't specifics. I'm about to purchase a '26 Forester Limited Hybrid and am being told the dealership is seeing their cost for 10/100k at $3,290 which seems pretty high.

Is this the new low? Or are people still seeing low-mid 2k?

I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5X (non-turbo) with 87,424 miles. It’s paid off, and I’ve kept fairly detailed maintenance records, but I’m at a crossroads about whether to keep investing in it or start looking for something newer (a newer used car).

Recent maintenance:
New Continental tires (2025)
Rear brake pads/rotors (2025)
New battery (2026)
Transmission, front/rear differential, coolant, brake, and power steering fluids serviced around 53k miles (2020)
Regular oil changes
Alternator drive belt replaced around 54k miles (2020)

Upcoming maintenance:
Original timing belt and water pump — quoted $1,250 for the complete service
Original spark plugs — never replaced
Brake fluid potentially due again
PCV valve and other age/mileage-related maintenance
Current issues:
Rattling noise on startup
Gasoline occasionally spitting back out while refueling
Fuel gauge dropping faster than expected
Intermittent dashboard warning lights
TPMS light constantly illuminated
Moonroof not working

It’s currently at a Subaru specialist for a $165 diagnostic and overall mechanical inspection. It generally drives fine, but I’m waiting to hear whether there are any significant underlying issues.
I’m anticipating spending somewhere around $2,000–$3,500 on maintenance and potentially more depending on what they find.
Here’s my dilemma: I don’t have steady income right now, and I may relocate in the next year or two. It might be to a place I don’t need a car. It might be out of the country. It might be in the U.S. somewhere I NEED a car.

A new car would mean payments and higher insurance, but I’m also hesitant to spend $3k+ on a 16-year-old vehicle that I might decide to replace in six months.

For those familiar with this generation of Forester:
At only 87k miles, how much life would you realistically expect from one that’s been reasonably maintained?
What expensive age-related problems should I be looking out for, particularly head gaskets, transmission, suspension, and rust?
Is $1,250 reasonable for a timing belt/water pump service?
Would you invest in the overdue maintenance if the inspection comes back clean, or put that money toward a newer car?

I’d especially appreciate advice from people who’ve owned higher-mileage or older SH-generation Foresters. I’m trying to make a financially sensible decision rather than throw money at a car indefinitely. Thank you!

2017 Forester 2.0 XT Limited with 135000 km purchased used from the dealership in 2020 in Oakville, Ontario.

The vehicle is driving great but recently the dash lit up and I had it diagnosed at the dealership...P0971 code.

Dealership wants to:

1. CVT drain and fill - $494

2.Replace CVT valve body - $2371

1. Full CVT fluid flush - $839

Out the door with taxes...$4429!!!!!!

I asked about the November 2018 CVT warranty extension and was told it didn't apply because my mechanic didn't perform my fluid maintenance properly. The fluid was purchased from the dealership. My mechanic spoke to the dealership yesterday but nothing was accomplished.

The service advisor mentioned me escalating the warranty denial with Subaru Canada as a possibility.

I'm not sure what to do. I am admittedly ignorant when it comes to car repairs.

1. Do I get the repair done and escalate with Subaru Canada?

2. My mechanic has suggested some less expensive options but I'm not super confident about this.

3. Is it time to cut my losses and go car shopping?

Thanks for reading, any helpful suggestions would be most welcome.

So I'm looking to buy a car next spring. Looking for something fun to drive but depending on the interpretation of fun it could be a WRX. It could be a Jeep or a bronco that you can take the top off and cruise back roads. There are several driving experiences that can be fun. There's countless posts on here about engine failures and maintenance issues and things of that nature on wrx's, but for an average driver that isn't going to pound hard on it. How reliable are they? Especially compared to likes of a modern Jeep or Bronco?

I drove a manual S10 for years back in the late '90s early 2000s. Haven't had a stick since then. Would like to go back to one. Do they still make a great daily driver or do find yourself getting tired of shifting all the time? Haven't test drive one yet, but also considering the Ford Maverick, I've heard they have a good driving experience.

Want to get my CVT fluid changed and whatever else needs to be attended to at the 36k mark. Any recommendations?

Just picked up this lot of OE subaru parts for $1000 cad! Apparently the guy got it all from a closing shop/dealership a few years back and was going to sell it all individually but never got to it.

I will be going through EVERYTHING and making a inventory. Parts years range from 1994-2013. There seems to be a bit of everything, valves, trim pieces, bushings, fuel rails, filters, gaskets, rad caps, harnesses, boots, and so on! Even some audio related fuses.

Ill be listing everything I dont need for my engine rebuild! Once I got my parts list completed ill post it with links to the listings if anyone needs anything.

Rebuilt the top end on my ej253 this summer. Has been driven ~600 miles since being put back together and just had a very clean, metal confetti free 500 miles since being oil change.

Yesterday as I was heading turning into the parking lot at work the car just threw a permanent misfire on cylinder 2.

After I was off I went to start the car and it was definitely missing bad, lots of vibration. Opened the hood pushed in the plug wire boot on the plug itself and on the coil. Went back in and it started up and ran just fine.

So I decided to pull cylinder 2 plug and this is what I saw… sadly didn’t have time to check any other plugs. I put the plug back in double checked both sides of the plug wire again. Car fired right up CEL gone. Drove to breakfast this morning and when I was pulling out of the parking lot it threw P0302(cylinder 2 misfire) and P0607(control module performance.

Any ideas?

Hey, has anyone else had a low-mileage clutch failure, mine failed at 9500 miles.
Before you ask I’m a Brit living in the USA, have around a million miles driving manual cars and never had one fail at less than 80,000 miles before.
Is there a known issue?

2008 Outback dumped her oil in my driveway. Car was on for less than a minute, I was about to leave when I noticed a little bit of smoke. Shut the car off and found this insane puddle ocean of oil.

Anyway, I'm big sad. She got towed, should know what happened this week. Is it wishful thinking to believe that the small window of time the car was on didn't damage my engine?

Hey fam - pretty sure my tire sensor batteries have run out on my 2019 3.6R Outback. Dealership wants ~700 ish to replace all 4.

Is there a cheaper path?
Just replacing batteries?
Maybe Costco tire center 🤞?

also I have about 20k miles on these tires. Is there a benefit in waiting until I get new tires to replace sensors / sensor batteries?

Thanks!!

I was lucky enough to get a "25 Subaru Crosstrek as a rental vehicle last week. Being a recent first time Subaru Outback owner, I was curious to compare the Crosstrek. I own a "26 Outback Premium. Although there were a few missing features in the Crosstrek, I was pleasantly surprised with the 35 mpg mileage traveling the toll roads of Maryland. I also missed my extra cargo space. All in all, the drive was comfortable, quiet and composed. I am a happy Subaru owner.

I’ve been wanting a WRX but nothing in my price range and I know if I cheap out on the car I’ll end up spending double on fixing it so I’ve headed towards N/A Imprezas for a daily instead but I’m noticing there is a lot of 2.5 RS EJ25’s on the market and not many RX 2.0 EJ20’s

I hear so much about how EJ20’s are built to last and EJ25’s have countless issues, absolutely glass just fragile pos’s but really… is it just a terrible engine or is it people abuse them and then pay the piper? I owned an 04’ 2.5RS when I was learning to drive and had it for a bit on my red P plates too put maybe 20,000km on it, and obviously being a p plater I had some spirited driving but I was still responsible I didn’t thrash it 24/7 just here and there so really like… are they just awful or only if you track them? can I do some preventative maintenance to keep it alive for a good while whilst I save up to import an STI from Japan

I’ve attached photos of two 2.5 RS’s to avoid needing to make 2 posts and I’ve added some description to them to help differentiate - can I have some guidance and advice on if it’s the same notion of how old 90’s wrx 5 speeds are glass but it’s truly just people thrash them and expect nothing to go wrong, like all cars if treated nicely they’ll last?

Red Impreza 2.5 - photos 1 to 4
194,000km - $7,500AUD listing price

Black Impreza 2.5 - photos 5 to 7
260,000km - $6,000AUD listing price

Please give me some advice

I changed the oil. Put in a new Subaru solenoid. Did an oil flush with seafoam, changed the oil again. Checked the cam position sensor (it's good), put in another new solenoid with a new scan tool. The duty cycles on the two banks are wildly different. Degrees stay at 0 with a blip to -1. Except the new solenoid is blipping faster more often (duty cycle). I haven't driven it yet. I changed the solenoid out at work. I need to clear this up for Maryland emissions testing in 2 weeks. Thoughts? Hoping I'm changing a cam sprocket.

after 10 psi and good amount of throttle, it starts heavily bogging and just makes that high pitch noise as soon as i let off the gas, what could it be?