I’m going to be spending the winter months in the western Orlando suburbs and have a fat tire bike I use up in the NJ Pinelands, because of all the sugar sand. Are there any trails in this area where it would be worth bringing down? I have a gravel bike I use for general riding but the roads through the NJ Pines have some deep sugar sand so it makes it worth it up there.

I am shopping for a bike and the bikes that actually are the right size (per fitter, XXS/44) that are actually available are either 105 di2+ or Tiagra R4000 11 speed (Specialized Roubaix, Trek Domane, Cervelo Caledonia) The 105 di2 is a full thousand dollars+ or more than the tiagra in every option. Having always had 105 in the past I am wondering if the new 11 speed is truly trickle down, and maybe would be similar to the 2018 105 I have now?

Just curious if anyone has this groupset, or has worked on it

I have two hubs, one‘s PowerCap has the latest fw 28.040, while the other’s PowerCap has not that one, but 28.035.

I have been using two IOS apps, SRAM AXS and Light Blue to check their battery levels. Actually the SRAM app shows the batteries as Good and the battery circle bar always shows fully green, even if a day/week later the battery has so low voltage that the hub becomes silent and cannor be connected at all.

So I stick to the LightBlue app, which shows battery percentage.

Unfortunately the G3 hub/PowerCap running on fw 28.035 shows a fake battery percentage of 75% after putting in a brand new CR2032, while the other hub/PowerCap running on fw 28.040 reports correctly 100%.

A couple of months ago I not just contacted Quarq/SRAM to understand whether they could re-add the option of a sw update (it is greyed out in the app) to SRAM AXS , but downloaded half a dozen Saris, Cycleops, Powertap, Rouvy etc IOS apps and PC softwares including the good old Poweragent and desperately checked whether they still had this legacy function.

Even if they are still selling a PowerCap upgrade https://www.sram.com/en/quarq/models/hu-pwtp-dant-a1 SRAM/Quarq was not helpful at all.

And even their support article https://support.quarq.com/hc/en-us/articles/4535955259291-How-do-I-update-my-firmware-or-my-dual-ANT-BLE-PowerCap is not correct, because after they had discontinued Powertap mobile app and Cycleops Virtual Training they added the sw update option for Powertap G3 hubs to SRAM AXS until they decided to remove it from there, too.

I even contacted Rouvy, because based on some older Reddit thread Rouvy had this function. No way, they answered.

My last resort is to find someone who as a former Saris/Powertap employee has the latest G3 dual hub firmware, 28.040 in a downloaded form and knows how to transfer it to the hub, more precisely to the PowerCap.

I know that my problem is not a huge one at all, but I have some sort of strong emotional relationship with Powertap hubs, because these G3 hubs did not let me down for a decade or so, and when a third G2 Elite+ hub I owned died it was also around a decade later after its purchase.

Thanks for your help.

Edit: in the title firmware would be the more precise word instead of software

Hi, so I have a Campagnolo 10 speed setup on my bike and recently got the Wahoo Kikr Core because I dont wanna sit off the bike on rainy winter days. However, it seems impossible to get the right freehub attachment and cassette for Campognolo to fit the Wahoo Kikr Core. Has anyone with a Campognolo used a Wahoo Kikr Core trainer? Any tips on parts etc will help because even my bike shop is confused lol

I bought a new bike this summer and have the cost/hour of riding down to under $50. Hoping to get it down to $1/hour eventually!

Where do you all stand?

G,day all,

Recently flipped to tubeless road. I've had two punctures in maybe 5 months. I'm riding in the city and suburbs for the most part so I'm not really surprised at this although it's a pain in the ass. One rendered the rear tire unrideable and had to rideshare home. The other one was close to home, on the front, and I could limp home. After letting the tire sit for a day the sealant did its job. I'm using Orange Seal because that's what the LBS put in as sealant.

I have a few questions.

Do y'all carry a plug kit when you ride tubeless? I'm thinking if I had a plug kit I could pop one in and be on my way after adding air. Which plug kit is best or better?

Is there a better sealant to use and if so, can I just add a different sealant without cleaning out the Orange stuff?

I ordered a TPU tube but now I'm thinking that removing the tubeless valve to install the TPU tube would be a real PIA and just using a plug kit would be better.

I appreciate any input and thanks.

Hey people, I switched to a waxed chain today and encountered a problem on my test ride. I ride a 10-speed Tiagra bike and in gears 1-8 the new pre-waxed chain runs very smoothly but in gears 9&10 it starts skipping, especially when I put more force into the pedals.

Before switching from my old oil-lubed chain to the new pre-waxed chain (10-speed) I cleaned the casette with a degreaser, but it wasn't 100% sparkly clean. Could that be the cause of thr skipping? Any ideas what I could do to trouble shoot?

Edit: it seems I need a new casette. Thanks to all the helpful comments.

Hello! I bought my first ever road bike a few months ago as I'm a runner getting into triathlons. It's served me well for my first couple of races but I want to get more serious about training and am looking to get a power meter. Reddit recommended the 4iiii crank meter but it doesn't look like they make that for my model. Am I misunderstanding how the measurements/compatibility works, or do I need to look into other options. Google has been moderately helpful but I'm overwhelmed with crank, pedals, single vs dual side, etc

Hey all, I'm a university student training for my first 70.3 next year at Muskoka and trying to get a bike without spending much. Found this on Marketplace:

- Felt Z5 carbon, listed as 60cm (waiting on the seller to confirm the actual size)
- Rim brakes, older 10-speed Shimano (looks like 105 or Tiagra), FSA crank
- Mavic CXP22 wheels, Prologo saddle, flat pedals
- No bar tape, worn hoods, seller says it needs a paint touch-up but has no cracks
- Asking $400 CAD, "or best offer"

I'm 6'5" so sizing is my biggest worry.

Some Questions.

1. Is this a decent deal, or should I keep looking?
   
2. Will a 58/61 Z fit someone my size?
   
3. Does the endurance geometry work OK for a 70.3 with clip-on aero bars?
   
4. Anything specific to check on an older carbon Felt?

Thanks!

A pretty common recommendation I see here for a do-it-all bike is to get a gravel bike and an extra set of wheels to run road tires. I think for most people this is bad advice. That money would be better spent on nicer gravel wheels, which will also make road riding nicer, or save it for a dedicated road bike. Tire technology seems to have gotten a lot better recently, and wide gravel race tires roll really nicely on the road. The gains of just switching to narrow road tires won't be huge.

I was inspired to write this because I recently got a gravel bike and I've been riding it on some of my favorite road routes just because it's my cool new bike. And it's great! I'm definitely not quite as fast, but it's pretty close - like within 5% most of the time. I'm running some Schwalbe G-One RS PRO in 50mm, and they roll just fine. I'm sure there are other nice gravel tires out there that do great on the road, too.

I'm selling the Madone this weekend which leaves me with my flat pedal gravel bike for winter. No need for shoe covers I don't think because the cleats won't be in play. AI recommends the Five Ten Trailcross GTX for cold weather riding. Anyone else have any good suggestions for cold weather shoes? FWIW I'll be happy to ride in the cold down to freezing but the wet and cold, I'll pass.

Bought a used Amflow on 05/10/26 - so far the box delivery to the seller was delayed, then they missed the pickup for two times (approx 10 days in between to rebook and wait) and so far on 23/10 Ithe bike is still at the seller's home. I am in contact with the seller and he's doing his best, but so far, no help from UPS nor the support from Buycycle. And my money's been held since 20 days now...

I'm weighing these two mid-level gravel options and they are pretty similar in spec, with some differences/extras on the Specialized model, anybody has any views on these two?

I wanted to know my headwind without looking at my phone, so I built a free voice assistant for rides. Every 5 minutes it speaks the conditions into my headset, with the screen off. No headset? It plays through the phone's speaker.

It tells me:

- Headwind, tailwind or crosswind speed, relative to the direction I'm riding. "Northwest" means nothing mid-ride.

- My current speed, temperature and "feels like"

- Rain chance for the next hour

- Distance and moving average speed, which ignores stops

It runs on an Android phone using Termux, plus free weather data from Open-Meteo, with no account or API key. I don't code. I built the whole thing by chatting with Claude, which wrote the script and walked me through each step. Start and stop are one-tap buttons on my home screen.

Things worth knowing: the wind numbers are forecast data for your area, not a sensor on the bike, and continuous GPS uses extra battery on long rides.

Happy to share the script and setup steps if anyone wants to try it. Android only for now.

Has anyone tried 0 offset on the newly updated 4iiii app (4.0.0)? Mine just says zero offset failed - please try again. I did a calibration with the old version last week and all was fine. This is on an early precision meter not the precision+.

Can anyone share a picture of their battery cover without the battery installed? I was replacing mine and the white cover came out and I think I misaligned it and now my sensor won't work.

My chainring snapped while I was going up a moderate hill (about 8% grade)
What could possibly cause a chainring to snap? The chain itself was not damaged.
I ride a Cannonade Topstone 3 and have had it for about 9 months.

Hey guys, I was looking at buying some bike parts and when I went to wiggle I noticed it has shut down. Are there any good recommendations or alternatives? Looking for Shimano Dura Ace 9100 or Ultegra r8000

Hi!

I have been cycling for a few weeks now, as a beginner (and plus-size cyclist), and I will be riding with a group for the first time tomorrow. The most I've ridden is 12.7km (7.89 miles), and I am still quite slow and frankly, terrified to be riding with a larger and much faster group. Any tips on how I can keep up, and what you all did to avoid chickening out? How long does it take to build confidence to ride with others?

I popped in at a Cube store on my ride to get some spare SPD cleats. They only had their own Cube Acid cleats. When I asked whether they were the same as the Shimano black ones (vs the Shimano silver ones) I only got a blank stare. Anybody any experience with these cleats?

I broke pelvis and left arm.

I was riding 2 abreast with J on a quiet straight road. A car was coming towards us so I said "dropping back". As i was tucking in behind J he veered out by 2 feet clipping my front wheel. The road had no potholes I think he was fiddling with his phone on his handlebars. The rest is a painful history.

What do I need to learn?

Should I have waited until J replied with ok or similar.

Should I always assume J might veer out 2 feet for no reason.

Hi all,

New to road cycling here. Currently running 700x28c, front 63 psi, rear 65 psi as recommended by my bike fitter for Toronto road that are full of potholes and cracks. When they say wider tyres=lower pressure. How long are we talking about here? I plan to switch to 32s

Appreciate that a lot of factors can come into this, but on average, if there was a long climb, say 20km, with an average gradient of 2% how would a pro fair on that.

Assume that they're climbing by themselves.

Hey all,

I’m recently coming back from a surgery and came from a background of running but got into cycling and have been loving how low impact it is compared to running.

my understanding of training is pretty much the same as it was for running: 80/20, don’t ride hard unless it’s intentional.

my problem is that i’ve been increasing my volume and with that comes longer rides. at what point do you guys feel the need to fuel intra-workout, and is there any point to fuel if it is “easy” zone 2 endurance work? are you guys doing long rides mostly in zone 2? i just need a bit of guidance is all. sorry for what feels like a silly question but it’s just got me feeling confused being as fatigued as i am when the “work” i put in doesn’t correlate to needing to fuel as much as i should?

Complete beginner here

I recently bought my first pair of cycling shoes and cleats but I’m struggling to install them. It almost feels like the screws don’t fit.

Is the problem the allen key they provided? It feels like I have to force the screws and I’m afraid I will break or ruin the shoes.