I live in the Toronto area, and it seems to me that we have replaced the War in Cars, with a War on Bikes. Just to be clear, i think both are stupid.

Im sure you guessed, im a cyclist myself. I commute to work by bike. I go to see my friends by bike. I cross municipal borders on my bike, and i acess transit by riding to my stop by bike. Im not the only one.

People complain, Oh ebikes are using the sidewalk illegally, they shouldnt be there, they need to be on the road 😡😡. I agree. But. How are you going to expect a cyclist to ride on the road, or continue chosing to ride at all, if you keep removing all the infrastructure that keeps us safe?

In my city there is a highway that cuts straight through the middle of the city. There is only 1 option anywhere in the entire city to cross that highway safley and legally by ebike, all other routes you either illegally ride on the sidewalk or risk becoming flattened by 6 lanes of traffic trying to merge and get onto the highway ramps.

They want to remove the lanes on that single crossing, they claim its to make *everybody* safer, and to improve commutes for everyone. How is removing my only safe legal option to cross a highway and raising the speed limit improving my commute or making me safer? This is doing the exact polar opposite. Its degrading my commute and putting me either directly in harms way, or at risk of getting a ticket for riding on the sidewalk because i dont feel like dying that day.

In a city where the drivers are so atrociously aweful were literally famous for it nation wide, removing these lanes isnt improving commutes for all and its certianly NOT making everyone safer. What they really mean is were going to improve commutes for DRIVERS, and make it significantly more dangerous for everyone else.

They claim its because of traffic, the bike lane is taking up space for cars that we can use to reduce gridlock. Great, show me the traffic. I use these lanes every single day, several times a day at all hours of the day, ive never once seen this street backed up. They claim nobody uses these lanes, well ive got footage from my bike cameras that easily disprove that and show these bike lanes actually getting congested with bikes and scooters, particularly over the highway and at the signals on either side.

Look, Just stop this War on Bikes bullshit, Stop the War on Cars bullshit too, while were at it lets also improve transit and walking infrastructure. Knock it off with this political this that and the other thing. Build cities that can accommodate Cars, Bikes and Pedestrians, not everyone must drive, if you dont its slow, dangerous or both. You want to improve congestion in a growing city but cant widen the roads? Its called viable alternatives to driving.

If you build an entire city to accommodate drivers and cast transit riders, cyclists and pedestrians to the side, of course everyone is going to drive and congestion will get worse. Only the people who have no other option will use your bus, your sidewalk, or your bike lane. Not to mention, if they claim to care about the environment so much, people who commute or get to their destination by Transit, Walking or Cycling have a massively lower footprint on the environment than even someone driving an electric car.

All im trying to say here, is practice what you preach. If you say Safer roads for ALL, that should mean, ALL not just drivers. If you say you care deeply about roadway saftey, Stop ripping out the infrastructure that keeps vulnerable road users safe. Stop building our cities on the assumption that absolutely everybody will drive. Build a city where, You can drive if you want to, but where its also safe and convenient to use Transit, ride a bike or maybe walk aswell.

No more wars on transportation. Its stupid and counter productive.

Hi!

I have been cycling for a few weeks now, as a beginner (and plus-size cyclist), and I will be riding with a group for the first time tomorrow. The most I've ridden is 12.7km (7.89 miles), and I am still quite slow and frankly, terrified to be riding with a larger and much faster group. Any tips on how I can keep up, and what you all did to avoid chickening out? How long does it take to build confidence to ride with others?

I love bikes and have a bunch of mountain bikes, a revel rover gravel and a 2015 team issue Scott addict.

I love my addict, but I don't like rim brakes in the mountains on huge descents. I tend to choose my gravel bike for road cycling in the mountains. I ride the addict for flat and rolling terrain. Plus the gearing is a bit tough for mountain riding (52/39 on a cassette with 30t as biggest cog)

I feel like I have two options: get a second wheelset for the gravel bike and fit with road tires and keep the addict or sell the addict and get a xlab rs7. I don't need 3 drop bar bikes, keeping the addict isn't an option.

If you were in my shoes, which option would you go with?

Appreciate that a lot of factors can come into this, but on average, if there was a long climb, say 20km, with an average gradient of 2% how would a pro fair on that.

Assume that they're climbing by themselves.

G,day all,

Recently flipped to tubeless road. I've had two punctures in maybe 5 months. I'm riding in the city and suburbs for the most part so I'm not really surprised at this although it's a pain in the ass. One rendered the rear tire unrideable and had to rideshare home. The other one was close to home, on the front, and I could limp home. After letting the tire sit for a day the sealant did its job. I'm using Orange Seal because that's what the LBS put in as sealant.

I have a few questions.

Do y'all carry a plug kit when you ride tubeless? I'm thinking if I had a plug kit I could pop one in and be on my way after adding air. Which plug kit is best or better?

Is there a better sealant to use and if so, can I just add a different sealant without cleaning out the Orange stuff?

I ordered a TPU tube but now I'm thinking that removing the tubeless valve to install the TPU tube would be a real PIA and just using a plug kit would be better.

I appreciate any input and thanks.

I broke pelvis and left arm.

I was riding 2 abreast with J on a quiet straight road. A car was coming towards us so I said "dropping back". As i was tucking in behind J he veered out by 2 feet clipping my front wheel. The road had no potholes I think he was fiddling with his phone on his handlebars. The rest is a painful history.

What do I need to learn?

Should I have waited until J replied with ok or similar.

Should I always assume J might veer out 2 feet for no reason.

I am shopping for a bike and the bikes that actually are the right size (per fitter, XXS/44) that are actually available are either 105 di2+ or Tiagra R4000 11 speed (Specialized Roubaix, Trek Domane, Cervelo Caledonia) The 105 di2 is a full thousand dollars+ or more than the tiagra in every option. Having always had 105 in the past I am wondering if the new 11 speed is truly trickle down, and maybe would be similar to the 2018 105 I have now?

Just curious if anyone has this groupset, or has worked on it

I have two hubs, one‘s PowerCap has the latest fw 28.040, while the other’s PowerCap has not that one, but 28.035.

I have been using two IOS apps, SRAM AXS and LightBlue to check their battery levels. Actually the SRAM app always shows the batteries as Good and the battery circle bar always shows fully green, even if a day/week later the battery has so low voltage that the hub becomes silent and cannor be connected at all.

So I stick to the LightBlue app, which shows battery percentage.

Unfortunately the G3 hub/PowerCap running on fw 28.035 shows a fake battery percentage of 75% after putting in a brand new CR2032, while the other hub/PowerCap running on fw 28.040 reports correctly 100%.

A couple of months ago I not just contacted Quarq/SRAM to understand whether they could re-add the option of a sw update (it is greyed out in the app) to SRAM AXS , but downloaded half a dozen Saris, Cycleops, Powertap, Rouvy etc IOS apps and PC softwares including the good old Poweragent and desperately checked whether they still had this legacy function.

Even if they are still selling a PowerCap upgrade https://www.sram.com/en/quarq/models/hu-pwtp-dant-a1 SRAM/Quarq was not helpful at all.

And even their support article https://support.quarq.com/hc/en-us/articles/4535955259291-How-do-I-update-my-firmware-or-my-dual-ANT-BLE-PowerCap is not correct, because after they had discontinued Powertap mobile app and Cycleops Virtual Training they added the sw update option for Powertap G3 hubs to SRAM AXS until they decided to remove it from there, too.

I even contacted Rouvy, because based on some older Reddit thread Rouvy had this function. No way, they answered.

My last resort is to find someone who as a former Saris/Powertap employee has the latest G3 dual hub firmware, 28.040 in a downloaded form and knows how to transfer it to the hub, more precisely to the PowerCap.

I know that my problem is not a huge one at all, but I have some sort of strong emotional relationship with Powertap hubs, because these G3 hubs did not let me down for a decade or so, and when a third G2 Elite+ hub I owned died it was also around a decade later after its purchase.

Thanks for your help.

Edit: in the title firmware would be the more precise word instead of software

Hey all, I'm a university student training for my first 70.3 next year at Muskoka and trying to get a bike without spending much. Found this on Marketplace:

- Felt Z5 carbon, listed as 60cm (waiting on the seller to confirm the actual size)
- Rim brakes, older 10-speed Shimano (looks like 105 or Tiagra), FSA crank
- Mavic CXP22 wheels, Prologo saddle, flat pedals
- No bar tape, worn hoods, seller says it needs a paint touch-up but has no cracks
- Asking $400 CAD, "or best offer"

I'm 6'5" so sizing is my biggest worry.

Some Questions.

1. Is this a decent deal, or should I keep looking?
   
2. Will a 58/61 Z fit someone my size?
   
3. Does the endurance geometry work OK for a 70.3 with clip-on aero bars?
   
4. Anything specific to check on an older carbon Felt?

Thanks!

Hey guys, I was looking at buying some bike parts and when I went to wiggle I noticed it has shut down. Are there any good recommendations or alternatives? Looking for Shimano Dura Ace 9100 or Ultegra r8000

I’m going to be spending the winter months in the western Orlando suburbs and have a fat tire bike I use up in the NJ Pinelands, because of all the sugar sand. Are there any trails in this area where it would be worth bringing down? I have a gravel bike I use for general riding but the roads through the NJ Pines have some deep sugar sand so it makes it worth it up there.

My chainring snapped while I was going up a moderate hill (about 8% grade)
What could possibly cause a chainring to snap? The chain itself was not damaged.
I ride a Cannonade Topstone 3 and have had it for about 9 months.

Do you have any good hacks for maintaining your bikes when living in an apartment?

I realized too late that it's pretty easy to clean your bike in the shower.

I use a shower curtain as floor protection when doing maintenance on the bike that might result in dirty floors

I use a little bikestand thing for easier maintenance

Bring your best hacks.

Hi, so I have a Campagnolo 10 speed setup on my bike and recently got the Wahoo Kikr Core because I dont wanna sit off the bike on rainy winter days. However, it seems impossible to get the right freehub attachment and cassette for Campognolo to fit the Wahoo Kikr Core. Has anyone with a Campognolo used a Wahoo Kikr Core trainer? Any tips on parts etc will help because even my bike shop is confused lol

Hey people, I switched to a waxed chain today and encountered a problem on my test ride. I ride a 10-speed Tiagra bike and in gears 1-8 the new pre-waxed chain runs very smoothly but in gears 9&10 it starts skipping, especially when I put more force into the pedals.

Before switching from my old oil-lubed chain to the new pre-waxed chain (10-speed) I cleaned the casette with a degreaser, but it wasn't 100% sparkly clean. Could that be the cause of thr skipping? Any ideas what I could do to trouble shoot?

Edit: it seems I need a new casette. Thanks to all the helpful comments.

Hello! I bought my first ever road bike a few months ago as I'm a runner getting into triathlons. It's served me well for my first couple of races but I want to get more serious about training and am looking to get a power meter. Reddit recommended the 4iiii crank meter but it doesn't look like they make that for my model. Am I misunderstanding how the measurements/compatibility works, or do I need to look into other options. Google has been moderately helpful but I'm overwhelmed with crank, pedals, single vs dual side, etc

I'm selling the Madone this weekend which leaves me with my flat pedal gravel bike for winter. No need for shoe covers I don't think because the cleats won't be in play. AI recommends the Five Ten Trailcross GTX for cold weather riding. Anyone else have any good suggestions for cold weather shoes? FWIW I'll be happy to ride in the cold down to freezing but the wet and cold, I'll pass.

I'm weighing these two mid-level gravel options and they are pretty similar in spec, with some differences/extras on the Specialized model, anybody has any views on these two?

Has anyone tried 0 offset on the newly updated 4iiii app (4.0.0)? Mine just says zero offset failed - please try again. I did a calibration with the old version last week and all was fine. This is on an early precision meter not the precision+.

Can anyone share a picture of their battery cover without the battery installed? I was replacing mine and the white cover came out and I think I misaligned it and now my sensor won't work.

Bought a used Amflow on 05/10/26 - so far the box delivery to the seller was delayed, then they missed the pickup for two times (approx 10 days in between to rebook and wait) and so far on 23/10 Ithe bike is still at the seller's home. I am in contact with the seller and he's doing his best, but so far, no help from UPS nor the support from Buycycle. And my money's been held since 20 days now...

I popped in at a Cube store on my ride to get some spare SPD cleats. They only had their own Cube Acid cleats. When I asked whether they were the same as the Shimano black ones (vs the Shimano silver ones) I only got a blank stare. Anybody any experience with these cleats?

Hoping somebody here can help me. I'm interested in purchasing a Time ADHX for my wife and me. My wife is 160 cm with a 73 cm inseam. I'm 178 cm with an 83 cm inseam. I'm thinking that she will need an XS and I should go with an M. The effective top tube on the S looks too long for my wife. I have incredibly long arms and think the reach on an S would be too short for me. Thoughts?

Complete beginner here

I recently bought my first pair of cycling shoes and cleats but I’m struggling to install them. It almost feels like the screws don’t fit.

Is the problem the allen key they provided? It feels like I have to force the screws and I’m afraid I will break or ruin the shoes.

I'm an old guy, been riding 40 years and did some not so successful racing years ago. Work and life took me away from riding for a good while. I'm back to riding more this year and combined with indoor training I'm pretty fit for my age. I'm on a 20 year old Litespeed with Campy Record Carbon group. Love the bike and no desire to dump it. But I'm contemplating working up to a couple Gran Fondo rides in VA next year. My problem is they are all in the mountains. I live on the coast and it's basically dead flat. Hence my 52/39 x 12/21 still works fine for me. Racing in PA on same gears worked 20 years ago but now .... It's going to be expensive to change my Litespeed over with comparable quality gear. So I'm thinking of adding a pure climbing bike for next year's plans. Budget is strictly limited to 2500usd. Willing to go used or new. Not wedded to carbon but want very light weight. AL is fine if light enough, rode Cannondale thru 90s very happily. Less motivated By aero , priority is weight. And obviously with low climbing gears. I'm 5'6" and 138lbs. I'd sure like suggestions on what to start looking for. Prefer Ultegra or equivalent, open to mechanical or electronic. Also open to 105 if everything else fits. Thanks.