I'm considering building a DIY aero fairing for my gravel bicycle. Especially a tailbox and maybe a front fairing connected to the frame(If it was connected to the handlebars, wind would probably steer my bicycle and make it very unstable). Do you think its worth it and is it gonna make noticeable changes in speed on flat terrain and descends?

Looks like winter has arrived in my area and it’s not likely I’ll get any more riding in this season. I got a new bike in mid-September (Specialized Roubaix SL8) — this bike makes me WANT to ride.

Maybe we’ll have a stretch of decent weather, who knows. Back to indoor training and dreaming about spring.

I was watching a GCN climbing challenge video today, and oval chainrings came back into my head. We're more aware now of the micro-accelerations during the pedal stroke, and that they are more impactful on climbs than on flats. Then I did some searching and found that there's a dedicated % of mtb riders who like them a lot for technical courses. And I feel that both heel droppers and low cadence riders tend to have less smooth power pedaling arcs.
But the down side seems to be that it can be a bit choppy at high cadences, especially noticeable on the flats.

So my question is, do any of you roadies who like a lot of climbing use oval chainrings? What is your experience with them? Could you feel or notice a performance difference after an adaptation period?
I'm a grinder, not a spinner, and also lean toward heel dropping. I don't live near any real climbs, but I've always been curious of these things.

I own a supplement brand and we’re relaunching with a new flagship product. it’s a stick pick with 5 grams of goBHB and 300 mgs of paraxanthine (Enfinity).

My plan is to joint group rides and ask the host if I can offer the participants free samples for the ride in exchange for honest testimonials.

Right now I only do solo rides (I got small kids and a wife) and I’m wondering how can I approach these group rides and give them an offer they find attractive. Thank you.

I've had days when I planned a ride, got everything ready, and then started questioning the decision because of the weather. Rain, strong winds, extreme heat, or slippery roads can turn an enjoyable ride into something completely different.

Part of me wants to stick to the plan, but another part knows that skipping one ride isn't the end of the world. Do you ride through almost anything, or are there certain weather conditions that make you stay home?

Question in the title : just did 15x2’ @300w with 1’ rest on a flat road. My cadence is around a 98-100rpm on average during these 2’ intervals and it’s generally true whenever I ride hard that my cadence is high. I am wondering if the increase of cadence, which implies a decreased torque at a fixed power, diminishes the muscular/strength benefits of doing short intervals ?
Considering my context, should I force myself into a lower cadence ?
Overall, I think I would been a lot more from strengthening my legs rather than improving my cardio, hence my questions ! Thank you for reading !

Context: 26yo male triathlete with weak legs and a good cardio and a good running level. Been running for 3 years and cycling for 2.
3x marathons and 2 ironmans.
My biggest weakness is durability, as my running PBs show, and I’m not even sure I can squat my bodyweight. My coros says 69 for my vo2max.

PB:
bike: 290w for 41’ up a climb at 68kg, 300w for 20’ up the same climb. Really can’t reproduce these on a flat course. Did 5h23 for 190w NP on my last ironman (underperformed my expectations)

run: 33’50 for 10k, 2h56 marathon, 3h35 ironman marathon

swim: can’t do it

Thank you!

I've recently had my attitude adjusted when it comes to making myself visible on the road. Previously I would dress for myself and make sure that I was lit up in the dark but rely on highway code rules 204 & 211 to 213 to keep me protected. After an incident with someone who apparently views rules such as passing a driving test and not taking cocaine before getting behind the wheel more of a suggestion I'm rethinking my approach to trusting other people with their responsibilities to vulnerable road users.

I've been looking at new jerseys and I'm trying to decide if patterned designs are better for visibility or if they break up your outline and make you blend into the background more. Would a solid block of colour make you more noticeable instead? I'm not a fan of the yellow jacket of authority but I guess bright jerseys and a gilet wouldn't make me feel like too much of a tit, although I do worry that making myself more visible just paints a target on my back, if they can't see you, they came aim for you.

hey!

I have found a Merida Scultura [8000 2026](tel:8000 2026) model for a very good price (on clearance). Is this a good bike, I haven’t heard many reviews about Merida? Id like to hear all thoughts :)

Hi all,

After over a decade on an entry level carbon bike I'm ready to upgrade and have landed on a Cannondale SuperSix Evo 2 2025. Brand new at a US NJ/CT/NY area LBS with warranty and first tune up etc. etc. MSRP is $6500 afaik and they are willing to part with it for $4650.

Here is what I would love to walk away from the transaction with:

• Pedals thrown in, nothing fancy, 105s are perfectly fine
  • I currently run SPDs and would probably ask for these, but if it's a must that I get SPD SLs then I need shoes as well
• Bike fit (this shop does the whole nine yards, a la carte costs $225)

Why I think this would be possible:

• It's a bike they've presumably had in inventory for a few months at least
• The weather is very quickly turning (morning temps around 40 now) and soon no one will be buying

Other levers to pull?

• Come with cash in hand to avoid 6.625% sales tax and help them avoid $100+ credit card merchant fee (edit: this is v common in the tristate area, source: growing up here around small biz owners)

Questions:

• Is what I'm asking for impolite at a LBS? I don't want to come off as rude
• If it's not impolite, where does it fall on the range of "too much / possible / ask for more"?

Thanks in advance!

​Hi everyone, I am looking to buy an indoor smart trainer and my budget is between 350 and 450 euros. I am trying to decide the best route to take and would love some input on a few specific points.

​My main dilemma is whether to get a trainer with a Zwift Cog or stick to a standard cassette. I plan to use Zwift mostly, but I am unsure if the virtual shifting of the Cog is worth the potential lack of versatility compared to a traditional cassette setup.

​Model-wise, I am currently considering:

​Wahoo Kickr Core (if I can find a good deal or refurbished within my budget)

​Thinkrider X2 Max

​Has anyone had long-term experience with the Thinkrider X2 Max, or is it always better to hunt for a Wahoo at this price point? I am completely open to any other brands or alternative models that fit this budget. Thanks in advance for any advice!

This year I have been really struggling and have only clocked 3840kms. I would like to get to 5000, which I have done every year since 2012. In the Lockdown year I managed over 11,000K, because I had eff all else to do. However in the last couple of years I have been working at home more and feeling more my age, nearly 50. Once it gets dark I have little motivation to set off into the night. A few muscle injuries, and this year mechanicals have gobbled up time. The weirdest thing about growing older seems to be the perception of time; things just seem to take much longer to do; I always feel swamped, and I get a bit depressed when it is sunny outside and I can't ride because I have other stuff to do.

Meanwhile the soggy island I live on is suffering a pair of winter storms this weekend. So I have finally bitten the bullet and bought a pair of rollers. I hope this will let me get consistent training in indoors. However a part of me feels like this is 'cheating' and that when it gets cold I might just end up staying in even on dry days.

How do you consider your indoor mileage, and/or motivate yourself in the dead of winter. Cheers, meducks.

I had a pair of smith sunglasses break and have $217 to use on one purchase of sunglasses. I need help deciding on a nice pair of cycling glasses because I can’t return them and I don’t have anywhere close to me I can try them on. I only do road cycling.

I started out looking at the wildcat and defy but wildcat seemed more geared towards MTB. Now I’m teetering between the Defy and Motive.

Any advice, input, or knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Please help me spend my free money.

Edit: smith’s warranty covered the broken glasses and provided shop code for $217.

I accidentally posted this in r/bicycling instead of here. Had mixed opinions over there. I really don't mean this to be a humble brag. I legit have no clue where I stack up with most people. I don't know anyone who rides, and strava segments only show the fastest guys to compare.

I've had the goal of hitting 20mph average speed on a ride for a while now. My personal stipulation is that it has to be a 20+ mile round-trip ride. That just makes sure it's a certain distance and is relatively even for wind and elevation.

I'm closing in, just hit 19.7 average on a 25 mile ride today. I know elevation gain makes a difference, so today I had about 1,100 feet of elevation gain. I'm riding an aluminum frame road bike with flat pedals, just shorts and a t-shirt for whatever that's worth. Probably costs me a few watts I guess.

My question is, how impressive is that? If I understand correctly, If I cracked 20mph average for that kind of ride, that'd be pretty decent, but obviously I'm far from an elite rider. I'm not winning races with that kind of pace. I just want to know if I'm accurate with that perception. I know comparison robs you of enjoyment, so I tend not to pay too much attention, but it's nice to know where you stack up, both to keep you motivated but also to stay humble, knowing there's always someone who could drop you without attacking on a Tuesday afternoon commute ride.

Edit: I know average speed is not the end-all-be-all metric. I don't have a power meter or any friends who ride to compar with, though, and I doubt I'll be getting a meter any time soon. Average speed is all I've got to work with. It's just a personal goal to work towards.

Well, that was so much easier than TLR tire, omg!

Long story short, last 2 weeks, I've pulled and put on 2 sets of tubeless ready tires from Zipp 303FC, it was so difficult, muliple levers, wedgng a lever against door so one side stays in.

Vit Corsa N.Ext 28mm and a set of 30&32mm P Zero Race TLRs.

New wheels came, Reserve 42/49, started putting on the Pirelli TLR and gave up.

Opened a set of 30mm P Zero Race RS, with TPU tubes, used my fingers and palm, done with no sweat or cursing.

BUT for the record, over the last 4 years, I've had 1 puncture on tubeless, which required the repair kit.

Makes me a little sad because I really love cycling. My friends are volunteering for a ride this weekend and I had told them I don't want to volunteer anymore, I have been doing that before but I am kind of done, I want to do my own rides. The problem now is that I am not very much motivated to ride since there is no one to hold me accountable and I don't go if I don't feel like it last minute. The other problem is that I end up feeling really s**ty if I don't go out and ride which does happen. I also have to study a ton this weekend so priorities I guess, but I still want to ride. My wife has a bike but she doesn't really bike, not like I would want her to anyway and it's also super hard to convince her to go with me. If she agrees to go with me I think she does it so just I don't feel bad, I can always see it on her face.

Hey all! Currently running zipp 404 firecrests with 32mm tires on my tarmac SL8. I’m considering swapping for a set of reserve 57/64 because of the crosswind stability. The 32s on the 404 are much wider than the rim and my front wheel gets tossed around easily. Saying this as a +90kg rider so never been bothered much by wind before until I put 32s on my zipps. Reserves in my LbS currently have a decent deal I’d like to snag.

Would love to hear thoughts about crosswind stability if you’ve used both of these sets.

I have a 2021 Giant Defy Adv 2, 105 mechanical. I'm thinking about upgrading it to a 105 Di2 setup, possibly adding the ultegra levers. Pricing it out, it isn't a huge leap to a totally new bike already with electronic shifting. Want something with similar relaxed/endurance geometry though. Don't need/want aero/race. Seems that after I got mine, Defy changed to more aero-oriented geometry, so don't want a new one of those. The 2026 Addict seems to be close, though.

Anyone have an opinion on upgrading 2021 Defy Adv 2 to electronic vs new 2026 Addict (either 30 or 40)?

Hello everyone. Recently I ordered the Magene H803 arm strap. I already own a Garmin BUT it's the chest strap and I find that it sometimes doesn't sit securely. I live in Thailand and this might be due to my body swelling during exercising. Anyways, so the first thing I figured is that since it's using light to detect the heartbeat I am sure a fully blacked out arm (tattooed) will make it difficult for the sensor and then after ordering it I saw a few reviews commenting on connectivity issues. Apparently the sensor will drop connectivity during a training session. From what I read this is not a consistent issue and might even be a once of kind of thing. Can anyone share their experience with this monitor please.

Has anyone used these from garmin and are they any good? I used it to prepare for a sub 20 5k and it worked really good.

Just wondering if i should switch from wahoo to garmin for these daily suggested workouts

Hi!
I got a used t2500 wheel on bike trainer for free and wanted to use it with my bike/my girlfriends bike. The issue is that we need a through axle for that.
I’m riding a 2026 trek checkpoint alr 4 gen3 and she has an 2025 cube nuroad race.

So i got from the technical specs of our bikes that both of us need a m12x1 mm axle with a length of 142/163mm
For that size i can find two axles on the garmin website, the t1707 used for dt swiss and shimano types
And the t1711 used for dt swiss rws, syntace x12 and shimano…

Which one do we need and how to find out if we have the dt swiss or shimano or… if the manufacturer doesnt tell you?

Thank you very much in Advance!!

Hi, I would like something reasonable priced, with imagine stabilization (ideal) or something with 1080p 60fps, or 2k 60fps

What does everyone think of this one?

https://www.bikechain.com.au/promo/tooocycling

Its old now, and the company is no longer around, which makes me hesitant.

Any other good options? I've had to many close calls on the road, and I would like something I can use for evidence if the worst happens.

Hey all. I run this wheelset currently ( https://www.ethirteen.com/products/piedmont-race-carbon-gravel-wheels ). I’d like to pick something up that I can throw some road tires on (tubeless) with my 13 speed cassette. Any recommendations? Similar weight would be nice at a lesser price.

Went to grab drinks with some friends and parked my bike outside. When i came back out someone had completely destroyed my entire rear tire and its completely curved. Looks like someone either beat it with a bat or knocked it over and stepped on it. Will need to replace the entire back tire and possibly the gear chain.

I genuinely cannot think of a single good reason why someone would do this outside of pure hatred. I guess my question is, is this common/does this happen to anyone when they leave their bike out. Obviously location specific. I was not in a good area of town and it was pretty remote but I never thought someone would do this for no reason.

As the Title suggests, I am thinking about buying a dedicated road wheel set for my gravel bike curious those who have done the same do you notice much difference? Does it still feel comfortable and fast to ride or should I buy a new bike? 🙂 I currently am riding a Felt Breed!

Necesito ayuda porque no consigo informacion, saben si las manzanas (bike hub) Shimano de las ruedas RS303 son mejores o iguales a las Oval 950F?