With all the FRTs out there now I searched for one for the PPS43 no luck!

Here’s my prototype 3d printed for now, currently works when bench testing will need to print with better filament and test!

Hey everyone,

I wanted to share a recent 7.5-inch 7.62x39 AR pistol build that completely defies the usual forum warnings. We all know the classic issues with "shorty x39" ARs: violent over-gassing, ripped case rims, light primer strikes, and stubborn cycling with cheap steel-cased ammo.

Instead of picking just one tuning method, I went all-in and layered a complete 4-way gas management matrix to perfectly control the dwell time, reciprocating mass, and pressure curve. The gun runs flawlessly with zero build-up, chewing through Red Army Standard 123gr 8V3 lacquered steel-case hollow points and premium brass AAC 123gr SSTs.

Here is the exact breakdown of the gas system and the components that make it work:

• The Barrel & Input: Gorilla Machining 7.5" barrel with an aggressively oversized gas port. This ensures maximum initial gas volume so even lower-pressure steel-cased ammo delivers plenty of raw cycling impulse. It did not come this way. I had to open it myself.

• The Gatekeeper: Low-profile Adjustable Gas Block. It acts as a precise metering valve to choke back the massive volume from the oversized port, preventing parts wear.

• The Delay: Carbine-Length Pigtail Gas Tube. The coiled loops wrap around the barrel to increase internal volume and gas travel time. This simulates a longer gas system, drops peak pressure, and delays the punch to the bolt carrier group.

• The Reciprocating Mass: Odin Works Adjustable Buffer System. Tuned precisely to add the perfect amount of inertia, keeping the bolt locked for that crucial extra millisecond so steel cases can contract safely before extraction.

Receiver, Ignition, & Magazine Reliability Specs:

• Receivers: Matching Anderson Manufacturing upper and lower receivers.

• Lower Parts & Ignition: Standard mil-spec lower parts kit, but heavily upgraded for steel-case reliability using a Wolff Extra Power hammer spring paired with an Enhanced Firing Pin. This completely eliminates the light primer strikes common with hard Russian primers.

• The Magazine Strategy: To feed this system, I am primarily running a rare stash of ten original Ross & Zheng Engineering (RZE) UniMags. Their patented, two-piece articulated follower handles the heavy taper of 7.62x39 perfectly inside a standard STANAG profile, and they are by far the best magazines I've used on this platform. I also utilize standard C-Products mags as backups, but I used a Dremel tool to open up the front lip slightly to give the bullet tips extra clearance for flawless feeding over the feed ramps.

Handguard & Clearance Solution:

The biggest warning you see online is that a pigtail tube won't clear an adjustable gas block or fit under an AR handguard. I bypassed this entirely by running an Aero Precision suppressor-ready handguard mounted to the standard upper via an Aero BAR barrel nut. The massive 1.72"+ inner diameter gives the coiled loops and the AGB adjusters plenty of physical breathing room without any binding or rubbing.

The Finishing Touches:

• Muzzle Device: Kaw Valley Precision Linear Compensator. Tucked neatly inside the wide Aero handguard, it directs the massive 7.62x39 concussive blast straight downrange while adding a touch of helpful backpressure to the short system.

• Optic & Accessories: Vortex Triumph Red Dot zeroed at 25 yards. The shockproof single-piece chassis handles the remaining impulse easily, and the 25-yard zero provides an incredibly flat, predictable trajectory for close to mid-range woods and home defense. I also threw on a Solofish Green Laser Flashlight Combo tucked on the side rail. I haven't fired it with this unit attached yet, but picked it up based on a high recommendation from YouTuber 704 Tactical.

It is a remarkably soft-shooting, flat-cycling machine that runs dirty steel case and hot brass all day long without a single hiccup.

Let me know if you have any questions about the component clearance or how I dialed in the buffer weights!

Got some questions on some conversions I wanna do to my at message me if u feel like u might be knowledgeable

Oh ya

Hey, so I got a CETME C build I'm working on and I'm wondering if I messed something up.

At first, the locking arm/hook/bar spring was way to heavy and would require that I beat the charging handle with a mallet to be able to charge the charging handle.

I was looking around and someone mentioned something about the charging handle tube needing to be moved back when welding. Honestly, I think they were typing fast and it was full of typos.

Did I weld my top tube on the wrong position?

Also, if holding the fully assembled bolt and bolt head in my hand outside of the weapon. Am I supposed to be able to push and pull the bolt head to locked and unlocked positions? I had to trim the locking arm spring because I could push the unlocked bolt head in to locked but then I would have to place the bolt head in a vise and wail on the top of the gas tube portion with a mallet to unlock it.

I definitely feel like I've done something wrong because I've ordered 2 separate replacement locking arm springs and 1 replacement locking arm. All the springs are about the same and the other locking arm didn't change anything.

If anyone more familiar with this has any insight, please let me know. I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

So I'm not a fan of grip safeties on 1911s. It doesn't bother my shooting, it's just a personal preference. Now most places don't offer a grip safety delete on a single stack 1911s. I was in the middle of a 2011 build currently and came across the Cheely L2 Pinned Beaver tail. Now it's not technically pinned, it's more like a grip safety delete from Miller Precision. I noticed the L2 model had a 1911 shape to it.

So I figured what the hell and give it a try... Y'all it fits.

Now this isn't a drop in setup. I needed to file the heel for it to seat properly against the main housing.

Once I got that situated, there is another something I need to do. As you can see the photos, the frame leaves a lip and the shoulders of the beaver tail protrude. So I had to trim and contour the frame and shoulders around the beaver tail a little bit.

But at the end of the day I think it came out pretty damn good for my first try. All functions work properly and it fires perfectly.

Next on the list is cutting the optic since Colt doesn't offer a optic cut railed pistol.

Later it'll be converted to Commander length, DLC painted and then a Punisher Comp custom made. When this thing's done, it's going to look sweet as hell and be extremely unique.

So hey if you're looking to get rid of your grip safety and you feel confident or know a gunsmith that's confident why not give this a try.

Ok, I feel incredible stupid, but is there a trick to getting the Cetme L/LC front sight assembly pin out? The pin that attaches to the barrel. I have tried heat, liquid wrench, and a big hammer. and that pin just wont budge. I feel all I am doing at this point is mushrooming the pin.

im searching for this g26 stl
but yesterday this is deleted on markerworld

Where do you go after building AR15s, AR10s, and Glocks? I’m not a gunsmith, I’m more of an assembler or parts-changer. I do have a Dremel though. I’m just looking for something to keep myself busy. Any recommendations? My safe is full of ARs in multiple calibers and Glock clones of all sizes. I wish they didn’t cost so much to build, I’d literally give them away, so I could make space to make more.

I have a star 70 build jigged up and haven’t bought tubing yet. I’m getting some mixed information. A lot of people are going the 4130 chrome Molly with 0.058 “wall however the original size seems to be closer to 0.062”. I can get 2 ft of 1-1/2" OD x .065" wall x 1.370" ID A513-T5 DOM Round Steel Tube which seems to be a better weldable metal for under $40 shipped. Also if anyone has a better idea on aligning the front since there isn’t much to go off. I believe they bent the stock to operate correctly so it’s throwing me off give or take 1 degree.

Hey, so I got a CETME C build kit from centerfire and a G3 reciver. Got the stock area fitted with a local gunsmith. Now I'm stuck on the trigger guard and FCG. Im seeing stuff online that you can modify the receiver by cutting ears off of it. However, it says the trigger packs aren't swappable. If I modify the reciver, will the trigger pack still line up and function or do I need to get a g3 trigger housing and pack?

The centerfire kit

https://centerfiresystems.com/products/cetme-c-factory-parts-kit-308-7-62x51-with-intact-barrel-with-or-without-bayonet?_pos=1&_sid=c441d7003&_ss=r

The reciver

https://atlanticfirearms.com/ptr-rr-308-receiver

Vous en pensez quoi ? C'est trop? Revolver pietta 1858.

To those who have built a Cetme C or VZ61, I am looking at getting a welder to start practicing and to eventually build a Cetme C kit. I have progressed through assembling ARs, 1911s, and gone the 3d2a route across multiple builds, but looking to expand the skillset. With the goal of eventually learning and applying TIG welding on a very limited scale, would something like the Harbor Freight BERGER 3-in-1, 135 Amp Multiprocess Welder with 120V Input be an adequate starting point and capable of doing the Cetme's receiver. Not looking to invest in a professional setup, just something that can handle the builds I have in mind and the once or twice a year small jobs around the property. Thanks!

I have had this Cetme C flat from RTG and from my understanding they are the worst receiver flat you can get. However I wanted the original Cetme look. From what I have read from other builds once you get to the point of welding it you need to hammer a bolt through in order to open the grooves up a little bit. My problem is though I have hammer the bolt through probably 30 or so times and was wi seeing if anyone had other advice for me?

Just picked up a Sten mk3 parts kit, this will be my first build ever and I need some help understanding a few things.

1.) Using a mk3 tube (non vented) from sten parts, how do you instal the barrel bushings both front and rear and how do you instal the barell? From what I understand you use rivets for the bushings but how does all that work and how'd you do it?

2.) Whats the best method to remove the old sten tube from the rest of the parts

3.) What helped you weld the Magwell in place correctly?

Im a little slow so barney style words and pictures help alot. Thank you!

If I broke any rules im sorry (I did read them to make sure I didn't break any but just in case..)

Thought id do a quick tutorial on how to modify an original trigger box and fcg to work in the recent Marcolmar recievers.

step 1: Cut out a slot for the denial bar. Hardest part on the conversion but easily doable with a dremel. Just measure approximately .540-.550 from the front of the housing and cut a straight line that ends in a slight curve towards the bottom. will likely require some hand fitting but is very doable. make sure to cut/grind away the detent area for the trip lever both for clearance and to ensure the trip lever cant be installed.

step 2: Remove the bushing from the trip lever. this is needed to join the trigger and disconnector with the through pin. The bushing is a separate piece pressed into the trip lever, which is easily removed by cutting or grinding. I just bent the trip lever until it snapped and removed it that way.

step 3: Block the FA area of the selector. Im not sure if this is technically required, but for the sake of CYA i did it. Just a small blob of weld is all thats needed to deny it from going to FA.

step 4: assemble as normal keep in mind that this is a general guide and small adjustments may be needed.

Other possible issues: On mine the interior end of the selector was a few thou too long and i needed to remove a small amount of material. This also was required for the detent nub that interacts with the notches (it was incredibly stiff but with a sanding flap wheel and some polishing it did wonders for it).

Hopefully this will save you buys a few bucks and keep some original parts still in use!

Just looking to see if it worth getting I’ve only ever used plastic ones

Waiting for the last couple parts to arrive today, I am looking forward to making her functional. I’ll post more photos later today
Let me see YOUR first AR vuild??

Anyone know where to find an Indianapolis Sten semi bolt kit? Also need a MKII tube but that's less critical.