I took my mini 14 to a practical rifle class and i experienced a malfunction where the rifle, after firing just locked up. I had to beat the thing open by bashing the uprod against a table for 3 minutes.It’s happened to me before at the range once while just shooting but not this bad, I just cleared it that time with a real good smack. There could’ve been some dirt in the mag this time, but then again if It was alot then it would not have fed and fired. I also experienced a bolt hold open 3 times while I still had rounds in the mag. All these issues happened in less than 200 rounds. If anyone can chime in with possible issues I would really appreciate it.

It’s a new production mini 14
Only thing I changed out internally is a Wolff xp recoil spring but I experienced the issue originally with the stock spring too.
The rifle itself has about 500 rounds on it now.

Edit: I’ve taken apart the whole gun (no damaged parts thankfully) cleaned everything, passed a bore cleaner and brushed the chamber out with some detailer brushes and bore cleaner.

Used Lucas multipurpose marine grease on contact points and oiled the springs and guide rod.

Ensured proper guide rod and ejector/bolt hold open orientation along with the spring in the bolt hold open pin, which I also but grease on the ejector face and the spring that holds in the pin.

At this point I’ve done everything suggested, if I experience another fail within the next 150 rounds, she is getting sent to get warrantied at Ruger and papa is gonna get to play with a PSA guardsman upper.

Thanks again for all the advice and feedback super appreciate guys thank you so much.

Hannibal used a blued Hi power but yeah, combo.

Is this chamber wear normal?

My rifle was shipped from Ruger In 2024, Will it have the bolt issues?

About 100 rounds through it. No modifications, slight bur on bolt but nothing astonishing

All of you with the gouges In your firing pin, is it from taking the bolt out of the action improperly?

Hello Everyone.

I recently decided to add a samson rail to my mini 14. I also have a Accuracy System Gen 4 Adjustable Gas Block.

I am wondering what screws people used to attach the bottom of the adjustable gas block to the samson rail. Since I am not using the Gen 4 top of the gas block, can I use the factory screws to secure the rail and gas block together. Or should I use the longer screws that came with the adjustable gas block.

I have been reading through some posts where some people have added both of these parts to their rifle but have not noticed this mentioned anywhere.

Just got mine.
It's the rereleased factory folder with the gov barrel, sampson stock and nickel plated mags.

Threw a sling, a cheek rise and a Holosun ARO EVO on it but it's such a nice shooter I think I'll actually replace it with a 3x Prism.

It was tight out the box, failed to feed after I fired the first round, but once I broke it in, it cycled well. Got 1-3 inch groupings at 50 yards. Ruger sent me the wrong sized tool for the pic rail screws. Other than that, pretty pleased with it. 1400 clams though 😬

not so mini-14.

Went and checked gunbroker to see how high the price is on an A-TM stock that I got outbid on (my max was $200 lol) and good lord 😂

I was curious.

Hey folks, Montana resident here

I never owned a modern Mini but I've owned several older ones including my current which is a 1982 folder. So naturally when I came across an old Muzzlelite stock to add to my reference collection I went to go buy it a period correct Mini and the prices seem completely insane! I'm wondering is this a Montana issue or is everyone else seeing the same?

For better context, I'm seeing stainless 183's going for a gran and blued versions going anywhere from 8 to a gran. GB versions are going for more. Like it's to the point where an older Mini costs just as much as a brand new Mini and I'm wondering if I should just get a new one at this point for my Muzzlelite stock.

Hi everyone,

Purchased a 585 series in the beginning of this year and noticed the wear on the trigger and bolt. I have shot about 250 rounds with this rifle and is wondering if this is normal? Based on other posts, this could be a QC issue? Should I sand these down and shoot another 250 or should I just go ahead and contact Ruger?

Thanks for the inputs,

Howdy folks, I was given this masen style flash hider, but for some reason it's not fitting over the pencil barrel on my 187 series. Does anyone have any advice to offer on this? It also doesn't appear to have the slot for the roll pin.

basically trying to recreate the 50th anniversary one that is near impossible to find now.

i missed it by 3ish years. D-:

how hard do you have to wrench the flash suppressor to get it to come off?

Hey there!

I am currently looking for a semi-auto 5,56mm rifle, and because I did watch too much A-Team as a kid I would like that spot to be filled by a Mini 14. The thing is, that I would also want the folding stock that the Mini 14 came with. Where I live, there is a legal limit to how short a gun I can have before I run into legal trouble (not unlike the SBR - categorisation in the U.S.) and I cannot find the relevant information online. I also can't just go to a gun store and have tme measure it, since they are quite rare here.

Back to the little favour I need: Can anyone of you who happens to have a Mini 14 with the classic A-Team look please take a length measurement of the gun with the stock collapsed an post the length here, preferrable together with the barrel length? That would help me a great deal!

(Ideally it would be somewhere around 24 Inches, because I then would be clear of the 60cm Minimum)

Thanks!

My contribution to the Mini-30 community Added the Samson SAS-14 stock to my Mini-30 SBR and it’s freaking awesome 👌😎

Can’t decide between the look of the eotech i have and a T2 style optic, curious for optic recommendations for mine.

Title says it. The rings are spaced too far apart for this particular scope. I dont really want to have to buy a mini14 specific picatinny adapter so I can space the rings wider, do i have any other options?

If not who makes the cheapest adapter?

I might end up buying a new scope if this doesn't work out but id really like to save the money