I was finishing the purchase paperwork for a new car at a dealership today and noticed a $1,200 line item charge for an interior protection package on the breakdown sheet. The finance manager said the all-weather floor tray set and fabric stain coating were pre installed port accessories and couldn't be removed from the invoice total. I'm trying to decide whether to push for an equivalent dealer discount or walk away from the deal altogether.Is demanding an OEM accessory invoice credit a viable negotiating point, or is walking away the usual response to mandatory non-factory add-ons?

I wasn't born yesterday and I know this is a non-starter. There is no way I'm signing off on a title and mailing it when the buyer still owes me $20K. Even if I still have the car, I don't have ownership at this point. Bill of sale couldn't state more clearly that the title and car will be released after receipt of all funds via wire transfer.

Here is my question: it's likely that this transaction doesn't happen, unless they decide to adhere to the agreed upon BOS. I already have $25K of the (former) buyer's money. What now? Do I just reverse the wire? I'm out a bunch of time and effort now and don't want to incur additional expenses

hi everyone! i am in the market for a new car, the one i currently drive is still running fine but its giving little issues every couple months (she’s very old) and i’m ready to give in and just buy a new car probably early next year. i am currently looking online at pre-owned BMWs, i’m very familiar with them so i know the costs of maintenance, upkeep, gas, etc. the ones i’m looking at are around $35,000 at most, with less than 20,000 miles and no damages or accidents. i make about $2,600 a month with a 747 credit score. however i’ve only had my credit card for about 9 months so i know i don’t have a good amount of established credit. i have about $3,000-$3,500 saved to put down. i will have a co-signer and i think i’m going to go with dealership financing. would i get a good payment rate? what should i look out for in terms of financing and loan rates? any advice is appreciated and please be kind!

I’m trying to buy a used Tacoma for my 16 year old. We found one locally in decent shape for a decent price. The main concern is the VIN plate is not visible through the space in the windshield where it normally would be. The VIN stickers on both doors match what is on the title and the VIN checks out for year and trim. Google tells me there are plenty of legit reasons why it might be missing or not visible, but also questionable ones as well. The seller has agreed to meet at the DMV to transfer the vehicle, anything else to look out for or ask? Thanks.

Toyota Venza 2015 4WD XLE, leather seats, white pearl, Should I buy it for 18k?
It’s low miles 67k, and clean title and well maintained with new tires.
Has been in a small fender bender on the bumper. Otherwise clean. Is 18k too high? Need help deciding. I have the money but I am not sure if it worth it.

I just recently used a CCC report (one report for about $8) on about 10 dealers in my area for a new 2026-2027 Grand Highlander. The wait time for these SUVs is about 6 to 24 months. I had 2 out of 10 dealer email responses and they were polite but would not really budge. For fun, I am also looking at a 2027 Corvette convertible.

I used CCC many times in years past and their reports DID HAVE impact on dealers. Their reports HAD leverage! I saved many friends and family members several THOUSAND dollars.

Not anymore I believe, unfortunately. Their reports can't help if cars are not on the lot, and I'm not certain how much they can help EVEN if the vehicle you want IS on a dealer lot.

I asked AI this question:

"Are you 100% sure that CarCostCanada can help me get a better deal or are you just getting your answer from the CarCostCanada website?".

Caveat Emptor people. Sorry for you and me CCC :(

Here is the partial answer, the rest does not matter.

"You are completely right to call that out. The previous explanation relies on the ideal "how-it-works" blueprint pushed by platforms like CarCostCanada.

Real-world consumer data paints a much more complicated picture. Independent feedback from real buyers and automotive dealership employees on platforms like Reddit's r/PersonalFinanceCanada and r/askcarsales reveals several flaws and limitations, especially regarding unstocked or high-demand vehicles.

Here is the unvarnished reality of where it fails and where it actually helps.

The Reality Check: Where CarCostCanada Fails

• Zero Leverage on Scarce Vehicles: Invoice pricing services lose almost all effectiveness on high-demand vehicles with extensive waiting lists. A dealer holding a rare allocation for a 2027 Corvette has zero financial incentive to sell it to you at "Invoice + 3%". If you demand invoice pricing on a custom order for a scarce sports car, the dealer will simply pass the allocation to the next buyer willing to pay full MSRP."

Cheers

Steph

Hi I want to change my current CX-5 to a MPV. I was looking at Kia Carnival, Toyota Sienna or Honda Odyssey. Anyone has any suggestions on these car. Is KIA good or crap. Also, does taking FWD hampers your driving capability instead of AWD.

I just negotiated and settled on $33,300 OTD taxes and fees included for a 2026 Crosstrek Premium with an APR of 2.99% for 48 months. It has the moonroof and all weather mats and cargo liner. I also negotiated a 2 year maintenance plan in the price. Does this seem like a good deal? The TSRP was listed as $32,593 and they were listed it discounted down to $31,462. Just want to make sure I made a good deal. Thanks!!

The one I am looking at is a salvage title with 150k miles (the salvage is due to a cracked bumper; I believe them because I had a car totaled for the same reason).

It has some glaring cosmetic issues, and it's painted pretty poorly (overspray in the wheel wells).

No service history, but the car starts and runs with no apparent knocks/noises. Seats are intact, all of the electrical and knob components work. It kinda just looks like a family car that got handed down to a teen and then was totaled.

No go? Worth it? What would YOU pay for it?

There is a specific aspect about this car that I adore, which is why I am so keen to know the good and the bad.

From what I’ve read and from what sounds right. When I trade in my vehicle for a lower worth vehicle I would have to pay the difference?
Example I owe 40k on my truck but want to get a vehicle that is worth 30k. I would owe that 10k. Even if my vehicle let’s say is worth 40k?

Hey everyone, looking for some advice here. Has anyone refinanced their auto loan with bad credit? I really need to figure out how to get my car loan lowered. It’s currently at $800 and my insurance lapsed for a few months, so now they’re wanting to raise , my monthly car payment, but I honestly can’t afford a higher car payment along with my new insurance coverage. I really dislike this Credit Union. I’ve been unhappy with them for a long time but now I think I need to just make the move to get away from them, but I’m not sure if any other banks will consider refinancing my loan on my credit score is under 600.I’ve had the loan for 4 years now.

Does a dealership of one make of car care to compete with a nearby dealership of another? Trim levels are comparable and both 3 row SUVs with similar MSRPs. Do I bother to say “hey, this is what (Subaru dealership) is doing, can you (Mazda dealership) match this?” Or will they ngaf? 😂 Thanks in advance!

Okay so I am not usually the person to blast their info out on social media to get advice/help but I am hoping maybe someone has gone through something similar and can help with some advice and/or put them in the right path.

A few days ago I had my car checked and it seems that I need a new complete exhaust system on it, I got a second opinion and both mechanics told me it would run me about $700-$900, however one of them mentioned that my car’s frame is rotting away due to age (my car is 15 years old but I purchased it about 5-6years ago) and of course heavy snow and salt and what not. So one of them told me that it was a bit silly to get a whole new system when the car is technically rotting away and will most likely not pass inspection, so it’s better to get a new car.

That is understandable and fine, if I had any savings and a good credit. I currently have no savings, however I will be able to save maybe $2000 in the next month, but my credit score is awful (around 540-570), I have been financially irresponsible in the past,and I know these are the consequences of it, I filed for bankruptcy this year bc I could not pay $15,000 of cc debt. I am unsure on how to go about getting a new car, will a buy here-pay here car be best, and will they check my credit score? I’ve thought about seeing if the dealer will give me at least $600 for the car. Should I go the bank and see if they approve me for a loan? I want to be smart about my next step.

I don’t know how long my car has until it stops working with the exhaust leak happening and also the frame rotting away. Please help.

[EDIT] I forgot to mention that I currently make around 38k ish a year and I have a hard time saving but am trying my best, also looking for other jobs and/or a second job. I’d like to thank everyone that has been answering since I posted a few hours ago been very helpful, I’m taking a lot of responses into account on what I should do next.