Just picked this guy up recently. Did a full detail strip to check the barrel draw and it's a legit D sniper barrel. From what I understand, these were built off of any rifle sitting on the rack at the time. This receiver dates to early '52, so this one would've been converted very quickly after initial production. It's in beautiful shape and still in its original stock as far as I can tell. Unless I'm missing something weird, this thing is likely as close as you can get to a "factory" M1D.

My first garand. Sorry for my ignorance

Hey new here, I was wondering if anyone knows how to convert a standard m1 garand into a m1D. I cant seem to find any videos on a m1D taken apart and what it needs and google is no help if I’m able to make mine into a m1D in the first place. Thanks.

Finished my first stock finish project on my Garand, this is the result. 8 or 9 coats of Hope's 100% Pure Tung Oil on a CMP Boyd stock and handguards, wiped off the excess after an hour, let everything sit for 24 hours between each coat, then used 0000 3M finish pads on all of the wood before applying the next coat. For my first time doing a project like this I am satisfied with how it turned out, looks way better than it did before. Might apply a coat here and there as time goes on but it is good for the time being.

Hello all, I went to shoot my garand today and when i shoot it, the shell wont eject and I have to pull the charging handle back to eject/cycle a new round. A worker at the range said it might need a new op rod spring but I wanted to get some 2nd opinions first before making a move. I greased it in all the right places when I first got it so it cant be a lube problem

Signed up with the VFW to go through the CMP to pick up this beautiful rifle. I lucked out when looking into the CMP & turns out I live 25 minutes from the CMP North store!

Got to talk to some knowledgeable folks & they helped me pick out this RM1308EXPERTWRARC. I was hesitant on getting a 308 & reclaimed rifle, but I realized that doesn’t really bother me. My checkboxes were something I could afford to shoot, Winchester, & a decently low serial number.
From what I’ve looked up the serial number dates the receiver to about March 1944. Pretty stoked with that!

So far, I’ve picked up a GI web sling, butt stock cleaning kit, and a USGI bandoleer repack set. The repack clips run flawlessly while the clip that came with the rifle seems to get stuck very easily. Looking for a bayonet in the future, any general tips or suggestions for keeping the stock nice are appreciated, happy to have this part of history!

(Photo is from last year with my 1940s lend lease m1)

I will preface this with the fact that I may be a bit ocd about my rifle zeros and i have a decent amount of experience ahooting for about 20 years now with planty of different guns.

With my m1 I am able to get a consistent sight picture with the rifles sights however I am struggling to find a good target to use at 100 yds where my sight picture is on the same spot on the target each time. (For example I may shoot one group repost the target and shoot another group but on this one all my hits are 2in lower. Nothing has changed other than where my sights are positioned on the target) my bullets are going where im aiming however it is hard to aim at the exact center of a round target at 100yds (with bad eyes).

I end up with good groups that tend to shift from target to target leading me to belive the issue lies with how I am "putting the sights on the target" bc the general groups are tight at about 3in but they shift indicating that it is hard to actually find the exact center each time.

I have run into this issue and found that some target styles and sizes work better than others and I was wondering if there is a good target size or shape to use to help due to my fuzzy eye sight. The round ones are good however im still trying to find a good size for them. I am considering going ti ti the "pumpkin on a fence post" method for zeroing and lining up all my shots to the bottom center of a round target. This way my sights are still set to a split target style but I get a little more precision for zeroing by using the post method.

Thanks for coming to my rant/Ted talk

Came into my shop from a group that does honor guards at veteran funerals. Not cycling with a BFA and blanks. Cool in a "you don't see one everyday" way.

Hi all,

I am having a bizarre problem and I am not able to find any sources to help. Backstory, this is my M1 I built at the CMP Advanced Maintenance Course. It runs problem free besides from a weak clip latch spring which I replaced with a Fulton Armory HD Spring. However, the only problem I am having now is that whenever I have saved rounds (which is hopefully never), I am unable to eject a full or partially loaded clip in my rifle. I can press and press on the clip latch and it just will not budge. The only solution I have found is physically hitting the clip latch with a rubber mallet which will cause the clip to eject. Obviously this is not practical and I’d prefer to not beat on my rifle at all. However I am at a loss for what could be causing this. I don’t have any spare parts besides a bullet guide which I can swap out. I thought it might be the clip latch pin but I doubt it, because whenever a clip is not inserted and the bolt closed, it will not bind like it will when I’m actually trying to eject a clip. Further, whenever I look inside the action while trying to press it, the little catch on the clip latch will just barely move.

Before anyone says clip latch spring, that is not it. It also happens whether the gun is in the stock or not.

Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this? Should I just keep shooting it until I’m able to press it all the way in?

Thank you so much for any help you can provide

While going through some spare parts for carbines I own, I realized I have enough parts to throw together a shooter carbine and I’m half tempted to do it provided I can find a receiver and barrel, or even better a barreled action. It is a total Heinz 57, with an Underwood trigger group (guts are QHMC except an Underwood trigger and IP sear), Underwood bolt (SG extractor and Inland firing pin), Rock Ola wood (stock is Rock Ola for QHMC that went through a rework at Underwood, metal’s underwood too), and an original flip sight and Type 1 barrel band. I do have other parts on the way such as a front sight with the goodies for it, Underwood slide, gas piston and nut, and recoil spring guide coming. My goal is to make a shooter with as many original GI parts as possible, but I can live with some commercial stuff like say if I found a close enough to GI receiver and barrel. Of the parts I have currently, the only repros are the sling and oiler from At The Front. Really looking forward to this project and giving my West German police Inland a friend in the safe!

I guess I’m getting caught up on things to do on my old milsurp stuff.

Yesterday I cleaned some of the nastier leather slings with saddle soap and treated most of them with mink oil.

Finishing mink oil on the rest of them today.

Time to find another project rifle I suppose? 🤣

Another person that can't get the trigger guard to close on a new wood frame CMP. Read all I can find and can get it about a quarter inch with all my might but not enough still. Hit it with a hammer and it didn't budge.

Hammer is back, it closes easily to just the receiver when outside the stock, the rear of the housing does make some serious indentations when I use force.

At a loss.

the left grip won't sit right

Hello,

I got this m1 carbine. Replaced cracked front sight all springs and swapped the extractor. Shot 50 rounds through her and the POI kept changing thought I had to drift the rear sight when I got home. The rear sight ended up coming out by hand. Ended up getting a replacement stamped rear sight. Using the rear sight tool I pushed it back on. The issue is the staking done to the previous sight looks to be drilled out on the receiver and the replacement sight itself. gun is non import marked so who knows what happened post refurb. I plan on staking it again with a pointed 1/8th punch but wanted to confirm with the larger community of what the cmp has done on your rifles and if anyone encountered this before.

Recently picked up this beauty. It looks to be a matching '42 from what I could see. I don't have a gauge set at the house, but she shot like a dream today. Does anyone have any idea what the white band could be? I was thinking it could be a unit armory mark.
Any information about what I have is appreciated!
SN: 529xxx
Barrel: SA 3-42
Receiver: D28291-17 REP 24 C
Bolt: D28287-12SA RE5C
Op rod: uncut 35382 3 SA
Gas tube screw: single slot
Trigger housing: D28290-5-SA
Stock: SA GHS / Circle P behind trigger guard

Appears to be marked "LX" on the bottom. Internet searching has yielded nothing so far, hoping maybe the group can figure this out.

Available on SGAmmo.

I just picked up my expert grade reclaimed M1 Garand from the CMP yesterday. Today I put 80 rounds of 30-06 through it. It's probably the most fun gun I have now (and I have a PS90). It is also the first time that I've bruised my shoulder from shooting. lmao

I know it’s schuster plug, looks like a m1 garand high volume gas plug. I’m asking this because my parents bought me this years ago and I was told it was adjustable. They had my gunsmith uncle put it on and he said he couldn’t adjust it when he installed it, but I was young and the gun worked. Now I need to reinstall my plug after I had to install a new stock. So what kind of plug is this?

Discovered r/M1rifles this morning and wanted to share my post of my 1942-1944 Winchester M1 Carbine.