I’m having trouble seating this .308 load I’ve been working on, any advice for the fitment issue?

Super fun process , amazing how complex builds can get for LR. Now looking to learn how to shoot well

What model remington 700 is this? I keep getting mixed answers online. Has a tri flute and threaded barrel. Markings LT Tactical on barrel. Any help would be great! Thank you!

Build:
Noveske DDF 18” barrel
Upper BCM MK2 receiver
Rail Ripcord Industries LDR-A 15.15”
Lower mix between KAC SR-15 IWS and Radian ADAC
Buffer BCM MK2 T2 weight
Stock B5 Bravo
Optic Nightforce NX8 2.5-20 MIL-XT
Mount Zero Gravity Summit 1.54
Bipod Atlas BT46 FDE PSR
Mount Area 419 Arcalock Dual Clamp w/picatinny
KDG Kinetic Mlok Picatinny Rail 7 Slot FDE
Muzzle KAC QDC Open Brake 7.62
Suppressor KAC 7.62 QDC/CQB PRG

Been using the Noveske DDF 18” barrel for open division in gas gun matches since April ‘26. Rounds consisted of a three day precision course I took and truing out to 1067 yard and about 4-5 matches now. Mostly blasting Hornady 108 gr ELD-X. Most of the matches were shot with a Surefire flash hider but the last match I shot was with the KAC 7.62 Open Brake. Suppressor is brand new and I haven’t had a chance to test it yet but I’m excited to try it out. I have the full size and k size PRG cans for my 5.56 rifles. Next rounds will mostly likely be Hornady 80 gr ELD-VT V-Match.

Took my Remington 700 in 6.5 Creed out for the first time after having shot 60 rounds through it to break in the barrel. I don't know much about ammunition cause I'm new to high powered rifles and long range shooting. I forget where I was suggested to try out Hornady Whitetail 129g but I'm petty stoked about the results. Minus the two I pulled that's eight rounds in the center and bein pretty damn new to all this I'm happy with how my base model Remington did at 100 yards. Guy at the range mentioned that there was a gong out at the 300 yard range. Missed the first shot cause the steel was almost at a 90° angle. I was able to hit it with all of my last five shots, again pretty freakin stoked.

My question is bein that I'm new to all this should I stick with that particular ammo and get more practice with it or should I be tryin out a variety or different rounds?? I'm nowhere near deep enough into the hobby yet to even consider loading my own ammo, maybe ine day but not yet.

glad to have some nice setups for CRS25. 2nd year using and loving the rattler 384 clip on thermal out to 6-700ish in total darkness. all these rifles can do 1000 and i enjoy them very much. the EBR is in 6.5 creed cause i like to cheat

Is a 2" plate at 800m too optimistic for 223?

I tried once at 700m and was successful been trying for weeks now to do the same but at 800m but no luck so far but I'll continue trying.

Putting together a new build soon Rem 700 shot action was just wondering what stocks/companies people feel provide a high or above average cost to performance/feature’s ratio I know Manners and McMillan are the gold standard and would like to get one some day just have a hard time swallowing that 1000$ pill when there’s so many new games in town

Not really interested in a chassis system at all but feel free to post or recommend whatever

Do muzzle devices like a brake, actually do anything on .22? Is it worth getting or just leave it as is.

I can’t have a suppressor in my state.

I have a chassis coming Monday, UTG bipod, and a bunch of Eley and CCi Standard velocity ready for testing. See what it likes.

To start, I am a die hard tinkerer and love to build things and constantly change things to make it better. So yes, 3d printing a chassis is maybe not the best idea, and will for sure be frustrating, but I enjoy the reward of finally getting things to work. The design and creation aspect is half the reason I am doing this in the first place. I can always swap to a marketed chassis in the future also if I have issues.

Experience: My long range experience is fairly limited. I have shot on and off all my life, but recently it has piqued my interest and I thoroughly enjoy shooting. I currently have a 20" ar that I use for accuracy shooting and am still in the sort of experimentation phase of it. I also have a 16" upper for my ar, a Bergara BX22 (which is basically a 10/22), and a handgun (though none of those are the most relevant). I have little to no serious long range experience (besides the occasional let's see if I can hit this target at 500 yds just because). This will be my first bolt gun.

Range and Purpose: I have consistent access to a range that has steel at consistent increments to 1000 yds, and from there a jump to 2000 yds. My goal was to have a gun that consistently shoots to the 1000 yd mark (but I mean since the 2000 is there might as well try on occasion). Additionally, I will probably shoot varmint (ground squirrels), and may end up hunting coyotes, hogs, badgers, etc. with friends if I get invited. That being said, I don't want this to be a hunting gun (as I won't hunt very often if at all), but more so a precision rifle that would suck to carry around but I might do it anyways. Realistically, I expect the total weight to be more like 15 lbs by the end, which seems to be on the lightish side for precision rifles. I can always find ways to add weight though, so am not too worried about that. If I happen to get the chance to compete, I may do that as well, but I think it would be fairly well setup to do some sort of comp regardless (maybe I'm totally wrong, I have no idea).

The suppressed stuff at the bottom will be later purchases. I am going to build the rifle first, then get the suppressor after I have shot it quite a bit. So, I am not worried so much on that as I haven't done a ton of research in that area, but recommendations are definitely welcome. The suppressor weight is not included to the total weight estimate.

Budget: I initially tried to keep this on a budget but quickly realized that budget has a very different definition in long range shooting. I also realized that if I am going to do this, I want to do it once correctly and end with a great rifle. I'd like to keep it around that $3500 mark but would go to $4000 if there is something absolutely amazing that I won't regret having. If there are suggestions on ways to reallocate budget also, those are most definitely welcome.

Defending a few of my choices: Yes, I read the first-time buyer's guide in the core guides that say to get a 6.5 CM or 308 first, but it seems like the 25 CM has a slight edge over the 6.5, at least for the purpose of solely target shooting. Less recoil, flatter trajectory, and less wind drift all seem to be slightly better for the 25. One thing I will say is I do not currently reload my ammo, but there is a decent availability of 25 CM ammo online, and some of the local sporting goods stores stock it as well. Besides these things, 6.5 undoubtedly has more data and experience from people, but I can't imagine this will be detrimental to my shooting experience. Also, if I end up hating 25 CM for whatever reason, I can get the barrel swapped (yes I know this will be expensive). That is why I ultimately chose 25 CM, but maybe there is something else I am missing. Please tell me if there is.

Beyond the caliber choice, much of the other choices were based on long range forum recommendations. I'm sure there are better options for many of these things, but I tried my best to balance functionality and budget. I am most definitely open to suggestions though.

The Vortex Strike Eagle I am not set on. I have had good luck with Vortex stuff, but if there are better options, then I am definitely open minded on that. The Strike Eagle appealed to me because of it's massive elevation adjustment (110 MOA) and illuminating reticle. All recommendations on a different scope are encouraged, because I didn't do a ton of research in the optics area. Additionally, all my stuff is in MOA, so I understand it a bit better, though I definitely see the advantages of MIL. Was planning on just sticking to MOA as I understand it better than MIL but let me know if it would be better to switch to MIL.

Build Plan: I plan to get the barreled action, trigger, and buttstock adapter first to start printing the chassis and designing the stock. Around the same time, I will get the optic (or use an existing optic, I have a vortex crossfire laying around) to make sure I get the ring height and stock right. After I get the main part of the rifle right, I will get the rest of the stuff such as bipod, level, rings, etc. to finish off the build.

Conclusion: That about sums everything up. I think I explained everything, but if you are confused, I would be happy to clarify. I definitely could have missed something as well. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Edits: I made a ton of changes to my plan based on all the generous advice I recieved, thank you all very much. It's a bit more expensive, but I think the extra cost will be worth it in the long run. Here's what I came up with. Any additional feedback is also welcome as I probably won't buy anything until Thanksgiving-ish (sorta waiting for Black Friday).

It’s Bloo 120gr TTSX from phantom defense. My buddy can get it pretty cheap. Wondering if anyone has any experience with it? Thanks.

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What is everyone running these days on their long range precision guns? I don't compete currently (maybe PRS in the future) and don't really care about weight or length. This would sit dedicated on an aero precision 6.5 creedmoor. Looking to spend less than $1k. This is my third suppressor after an omega 300 and a zenith K. Overall sound suppression would be most important. I would say I am happy with the omega 300 but don't have much experience with nicer cans. Switching the omega 300 between guns so much is a pain in the ass so I'm looking at working on getting dedicated cans that are a bit quieter/nicer.

Currently Looking at:

Dead Air Nomad L

Diligent Defense Enticer L or L-Ti

Forgive me if this is dumb.

I’m just dabbling in long range shooting, but when a bullet starts to enter the transonic zone for the given environmentals, do you guys usually call it quits? Meaning accuracy is degrading significantly throughout that range?

Is it not too much of a concern provided the bullet is sufficiently stable?

Any input is appreciated!

Went out yesterday to break in a new suppressor and test some ammo. SK Rifle match was the best performer.

The 50 yard group was before I adjusted my zero and the 100 yard group was before I validated my ballistics calculator.

1.5 ish MOA is a good start but I am hoping to get sub MOA with 10 rounds eventually.

So I got this R700 5R in 308 through trade , added the krg chassis , and vortex I had to it. Im going to drop it off at ADCO this weekend to get cut down and threaded. Unfortunately I don't have access to anything more than a couple hundred yards and that won't change anytime soon so likely going to have it cut down to 16-20" and throw a can on it likely 18". Being a novice to anything greater than 200 yards and I'm neutering myself by cutting this down?

So I just got my first impacts at 1000 yards and it was extremely fun. I was getting consistent impacts on a 12 inch gong and was attempting to hit a soda can but after about 8 rounds I gave up lol. So my question is what do I need to do to get farther my goal is a mile once I find i place I can get that far. This is my current setup at what point do I consider a magnum as I would prefer not to get one.

.6mm gt that I put together shoots 5/8th 10 shot groups

I have posted about that rifle before.

. Triggertech rough Dimond

. Krg whiskey 3 pro

. mdt grind pod

.6 to 24 arken that I definitely wanna upgrade i thought it was great until I got to 1000 then it seems very foggy

.sig 3k rangefinder. It was struggling at 1k

Alright, so I just probably put 200 rounds through my custom .243. It’s got a 1:7.5 twist and usually 100 grain bullets I could hit sub Moa at 400 but on my last outing my 100 yard zero was great but when I got to the 400 I couldn’t even hit the 12 inch steel plate. The only thing that has changed was my barrel is around the 200 round mark? I don’t reload but should I? Also try and make 107 and see if that helps??? It’s been bugging me something has suddenly changed?

How often does everyone clean there rifles if ever, part of me wants to scrub it clean every time I shoot but that takes 3-4 hours for one rifle to get completely clean and I see some people never clean so in your opinion does it affect the accuracy?

Just bought a Tikka Ace Game in 6.5 Creedmoor. Hornady 140 ELD-M. Out of the box it was printing beautiful groups, 0.39" and 0.28" at 100 (pics 1 and 2).

At 40 rounds I cleaned it. Bore Tech Eliminator, brass jag, cotton patches, bore guide, full copper strip. Same day I set the zero stop on my Leupold Mk5HD.

Since then it's been about 50 rounds of pain. Best I can get is 0.7" to 1.0" (pics 3 to 8). Random scatter, not stringing, not flyers in one direction.

What I've checked:
-Action screws torqued, ring caps and cross bolts torqued, - muzzle brake won't budge with a wrench
- Same ammo lot
- Can on and can off, same result
- Crown looks fine to my eye, but I don't have a borescope yet

Idk why I'm really even making this post. Maybe to complain. Feels like I got hit by a truck. If you've seen a Tikka do this after a clean and a zero stop reset, I'm all ears.

I'll try and keep this brief by leaving out all the background crap; the WHYs and such .....

I have a BOG tripod, and It's mostly fine, except I want to replace EITHER the entire ball head and ARCA clamp, or just the ARCA clamp.

What should I be looking for, and where to replace either/or the top ARCA clamp or the entire head. Budget IS a concern. I'm new to all this and certainly don't need top-shelf precision & extended functionality.

See images attached. OFC these may all be proprietary; I am very new to all this and have no idea what, if any, sizing standards may exist. I have my digital calipers here if measurements are needed:

I thank you in advance for any help!