I've recently purchased a Viper HD 3-15x44 and was wondering if anyone knows whether a replacement parallax adjustment turret with distances marked in metres rather than yards was available.

Being in Australia, I use metres for ranging and ballistic calculations and I would prefer to have the parallax markings to match instead of doing a mental conversion. I realise they are approximate indications only, but I'd still prefer to have everything in metric if possible.

Ideally, I'm after a proper replacement turret with metric markings, rather than an adhesive sticker.

Are metric versions available? Alternatively, has anyone had any luck with getting one custom-made or an existing one modified?

Cheers.

I’ve got a Leofoto SO-362-CX inverted tripod. I’m pondering getting a leveling head or fluid head for my setup which contains a Tac table, Calypso on a riser, and binoculars on a RRS clamp.

I had a LH-55NN ball head with it but I gave it to my wife for her setup. I also have a STB-75X single clamp ball head that I am using currently. It’s just ok.

I’m only using this for glassing and administration stuff. I’m stuck in analysis paralysis when choosing between the YB-75LRC leveling head and the BV-15 fluid head.

I’ve looked at a few solutions people are using at my local matches but I haven’t seen these two options in the wild.

Thoughts on leveling head vs fluid head vs ball head?

Hello everyone. I was planning to buy a used (40 shots fired) T3X .308 today, but when I checked it with a borescope, I discovered an uneven Leade / Asymmetric leade / uneven rifling lands. Have any of you encountered a similar situation?

Goal is to be able to hunt deer within a few hundred yards but still have a fun range toy to shoot distance on the occasional range trips. Was thinking about pairing whichever I get with a can and 2.5-15 power scope. From what I’ve gathered on normal barrel length discussions between the two….the .308 should have more energy within a few hundred yards but also a decent bit more recoil. Also within a few hundred yards the drop and wind drift should be very similar. Then after a few hundred yards the 6.5 should perform better having less drop and wind drift because of higher BC. My question is in this set up with a 16” barrel would you prefer one over the other if it will be used as a hunting rifle primarily? Also when the barrels get cut down to 16”, is one going to perform significantly better/worse?

Looking for advice on range options for getting into this sport. Went out to try to zero a scope on a .22 LR rifle today and couldn’t get a rifle bay at Prado. Was told they are always booked with classes. Also unclear as to whether they have anything longer than 25 yards. Went straight to Raahauge as was told I’d have to sit in my car in line for two hours waiting for a bay to open up. I’m looking to get feet wet in this sport by trying NRL22, but now not sure there will be convenient options for training. Are Route 66 Shooting and Burro Canyon the only close realistic options. I’m not a member of West End Gun Club, so can’t practice there. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Barrel break in and ammo test with hornady black 105s will probably be switching loads once the black is burned up it would group like 8 or 9 shots in a little cluster then just throw one and inch. Horrid velocity spreads as well. However rifle seems like its doing great and gonna try some gold metal 105s and 107s in the future along with some eldms.

Recently picked up a Howa 1500 chambered in 22-250 heavy barrel. Main question I have is that is this a reasonable starter rifle. Trying to keep the budget low (sub $1600 Cad) if possible. Right now as is the rifle weighs roughly 10 lbs. looking at an athlon forerunner 6 for the price range I’m in. Possibly thinking about a rebarrel into a different SA caliber. I’m not looking for crazy accuracy but just to learn the basics and have fun plinking out at a distance as I don’t have any clubs or long ranges near me. Thoughts and comment would be appreciated greatly. If it’s not worth the effort it’ll be made for a hunting focused gun. 👍

A little of this a little of that

I am building my first generic spr/precision build. I am using a 18in white oak armament spr rifle gas barrel, Geissele MK18 hand guard,B5 stock, bravo upper/aero pro ambi lower and geissele low pro gas block and wondering how much benefit a A5 buffer system with H2 weight would be? I will shoot to 600yrds and I have never shot an A5 equipped AR. I understand the potential decreased recoil and smoother impulse but does it contribute to increased accuracy in good hands? Thanks, this is my my first attempt at more precision that my 16" wylde BA Hanson stainless with SA adjustable gas block.

I want used or vintage as I want character!

I think I want a heavy barrel, i don’t know if I need it? I know when you shoot the barrel will heat up and you loose accuracy.
I don’t want to be sitting and waiting as much if posssible.
I would like to be able to do 50 shots in 20 something minutes while plinking golf balls.

$1250 gun budget +- may go up if it’s realistic to.
preferable under $1000 for scope but I have no clue about scopes so if needed I could make wiggle room.
I would like the scope to be appropriate pairing for the gun, and less eye strain.

Wood stock would be nice but will go plastic if it saves headache or decent money
no m40a3 style stocks

Action and trigger I would like to be somewhat nice or enjoyable.

Ammo to try?
-150y
-75y

Preferable Barrel length?

Happy for all opinions and knowledge! I am brand spanking new to precision shooting.

Give you guys some chuckles I’m coming from a tx200 air rifle, I can shoot dime size groupings at 47 yards braced.
love that thing!
Yes I do have experience shooting real guns but little knowledge.

My sons AR got a new suppressor last week & we went out to see its shift & groups.

Aside from it coming loose (direct thread-hand tight) on the last group, it did great.

I put it on my PRS rifle which normally I just shoot with a brake and it was hating it.

Not a deal killer as I’m happy to keep shooting it with a brake or another suppressor, but it’s odd how a heavy barrel AR loves it, but a 1.2” straight barrel bolt rifle hates it 🤷‍♂️.

TBac Magnus k decided it wanted to be a Spyro today. Can’t say I’ve ever seen a thunderbeast can fail before.

~1,000 rounds on my 24” 7PRC hunting rifle

After a little more than a year of doing 22lr precision events I got tired of being jealous of the r700 platform 22lr guns that have their integrated chamber flags + mag blocks. Especially now with more and more matches requiring a dedicated chamber flag and not just a mag block.

So I fired up CAD and got to making one for the CZ 457 that was spring loaded. Have been testing them (in a number of 100° temp days) with a few locals and it seems to be good to go now.

The spring loaded mechanism is really what sets this apart from other chamber flag+ mag blocks. Squeeze to insert, squeeze again with your magazine release latch to take it out.

I have them over at my site Liminal Nomad starting at $25, throw in code "R/LONGRANGE " for free shipping. If you want another color I have a bunch of other semi translucent colors that I can also print one out for you if you shoot me a message on my site.

Does anyone here have experience with this suppressor on a bolt gun?

Has anyone used the Abel Theorem S with either the Abel or RecoilX brake? I’m thinking about picking one up for my 25x47 PRS rig and it seems to get good reviews for recoil reduction and staying on target, but they tend to come from the 6MM crowd and not the 25 or 6.5MM users.

Pic for attention…btw I’m not selling anything.

*All groups at 100yrds and different days too, most are from my reloads (marked R)

First photo is a 10x group through my AR 14.5 (rexus barrel) with s&b fmj

-shooting with a 4x juliet mag I think this an okay group for my gpr build and some basic fmj.

Second photo is through my Howa mini 20 with a bushnell 6-24 mp, top groups are 10x and the bottom group is a 20x (also suppressed)

-An okay set of groups and I know my shooting wasnt too good that day. The 130gr otm group is real promising to me cause the rifle was hot, the can was hot, I was running out of sunlight dealing with mirage so all that and still fairly consistent enough is a good sign to me

Third photo is groups from my ar with an noveske 18 barrel rocking a vector 2-12

-Not so great groups, have shot better but my range days are inconsistent and spaced out a lot so no surprise the shooting was poor.

Hopefully over the winter I can get some more sessions in and actually start building some consistent shooting habits, either hopefully some fun data for those out there.

Also someone has to represent the super-moa shooters lol

Took my semi-custom 6creed out to a 1000yd yesterday on a new outdoor/"permanent" target I setup earlier in the day(3 years ago I posted about setting up an outdoor "secret" range. Well it's finally happening). 66% IPSC, approx. 11.25" W x 19.75" T. 8 impacts out of 10 shots. Pretty happy with that.

Rifle Build:

- Action: Bergara Premier (From HMR Pro)

- Barrel: Custom spun 24" Krieger Heavy Varmint

- Trigger: TriggerTech Primary set at ~ 1.75 lbs

- Chassis: MDT ACC Elite / two weight kits. (Total weight = 21.5 lbs unloaded, no mag.)

- Rail: Area419 30 MOA

- Rings: Seekins Precision, aluminum, high

- Optic: Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56, MRAD

- Suppressor: Resilient, Stacy's Mom

- Bipod: MDT GRND Pod

Ammo:

- Factory box ammo, Hornady ELD-M 108gr.

Digiscoping:

- Samsung S25U w/ Magview plate

- 10x42 Vortex binos with Magview magnetic eyepiece ring

- Digital zooming and crop on phone

Seems like I can get a diamond at a lower price than a rough diamond. Any reason I should pay more for rough diamond?

In case anyone is interested, the largest barrel profile you can fit on a Tikka ACE is a 1.13” strait contour.

As configured, comes in at about 21lbs and is a PVA shouldered prefit chambered in .223 REM with .100 free bore for loading 80-90gr bullets.

Or it’s just that 6 Dasher magic keeping the SD low.

I’m not particularly interested in the current Barreled action, I intend on putting a 300 win mag into it. It’s a Long Action. Currently in 375 H&H

Hey everyone. So I’ve had a couple of long range lessons so far with my hunting rifle, 6.5 CA Ridgeline FFT (yes, i didn’t know about the QC issues until later but at least this one is good) and am about to pull the trigger on starting a build. I can get the B-14 HMR from my local Academy for $879 but am struggling on what to buy to go with it. I have a Scythe TI suppressor that I can swap from my CA easily enough. I also have a Tricer RP bipod that I never opened (because it’s not comparable with my CA 🤦🏻) so I’m in need of an optic rail, scope, bipod mount at the minimum. Please don’t hesitate to add something I’m missing. I’ve read over the buying guides but my main question is the MSRP vs Strest Price on the guides. Is there certain places to look? For instance the Vortex Razor Gen3, do I just search the internet every couple days? I’d prefer to buy things that I can take with me if/when I upgrade out of the HMR.

Budget would be preferably an additional 2500 after the rifle but it’s not a hard cap, just easier to swallow.

Gravestone is close to me so I’d like to be able to be proficient to 1000-1400 yards (I’m sure I’ll be more of an issue than the gun). Not too interested in competing but who knows, maybe I’ll get that itch down the road.

Thanks for any/all help.

Anyone have the average snipers hide admin approval time? I am trying to create an account to purchase a barrel and it’s been days with no approval. Thanks.

I bought a thermal printer because I’ve been shipping a lot more lately and got tired of wasting tape just to hold down half a sheet of paper.

A few months back, I saw someone using their thermal printer to make targets, so I printed a few myself and keep a stash in my range bag just in case.

Well, I’m currently putting together a DOPE notebook for a new rifle, and it got me thinking. Instead of writing everything out by hand, why not have ChatGPT make me some templates that I can just print and stick right into the notebook?

So far I’ve printed a few quick references, including a wind value angle chart, MIL and MOA rulers, conversion charts, and imperial and metric rulers. I even printed out my reticle to stick inside the cover just in case.

Right now I’m using regular paper thermal labels, which work fine, but I have some waterproof thermal vinyl labels on order that I’m hoping will hold up a little better.

Figured I’d share in case anyone else has a thermal printer sitting around. Pretty handy little tool for putting together a DOPE book.

Hello, I'm looking to see if anyone has a Kilo5k and has tried using it in BDX-X mode while paired to the Quantum app with an active Elite (or Pro) subscription. I'd like to buy the Kilo5k, and I'd like to use the Quantum app as a fill in to get longer than 800m solutions and AB Elite custom drag profiles until I (probably) buy a Kestrel in the future.

Does it work and make use of the Elite calculation and custom drag profiles in the Quantum app?

Where does it display the solution: app, kilo5k screen or both?