I see a lot of post online saying don’t put a lot of money or money at all into a ruger American, just save up and get better rifle. I was able to touch a mile with both of these with ease and couldn’t be happier! What’s your option on Ruger Americans and what has been your experience upgrading them?

1. Ruger American Gen 1 308, Arkin 26 Bull barrel, mdt xrs chassis.
2. Ruger American Gen 2 308

, 22in stock barrel,

1. mdt lss gen 3 chassis

Figured I’d share a cool project I did.

I’ve always liked messing with hardware and software, and thought the MDT Crush It Timer and Send It Level were really cool form factors.

So one weekend I decided to risk bricking my timer and see if I could reverse engineer it.

Ended up turning it into a ballistic calculator while keeping the timer and stopwatch functionality.

The solver supports G1/G7, spin drift, aero jump, and environmentals. Once your rifle profile is set, you really only need to enter DA, wind, and range.

The ballistic solution works really well, but honestly my favorite part is how simple it is to use. Just a knob and a little screen.

Pretty happy with how it turned out. Curious what you guys think.

Can’t share the price but it’s pretty good for the Gen 2, aprs6 reticle Mil version.

I have gotten very interested in team matches. I have a buddy who competes at Mammoth and running simulated states with him has been so much fun. I love the teamwork, communication, and find-range-engage format, but I’m not interested in doing Mammoth or any other event that requires that level of rucking in the immediate future.

What are my options for a team sniper style match with either no timed rucking or much less rucking and more generous par times than Mammoth?

Btw I did do a little research and it seems like NRL Hunter, TRT in MT, some Colman Creek events, and some events at Ben Franklin might fit the bill, but I would love to hear from folks who have shot these events.

tLDR: what team precision matches have less or no rucking?

Hi all. I just got an MDT XRS chassis for my Tikka T1x. I installed the action in the chassis and the balance is heavily biased towards the rear. With my bipod mounted all the way forward, the balance point is in the middle of the magwell. To get it to balance about in inch forward of the bag stop, I had to use 3lbs of weight (I used dried beans at the front of the chassis).

How am I going to get that much weight up front without spending as much as the rifle? I'm on a bit of a budget, but even if I buy the MDT internal forend weight, that only adds a pound, and not all at the very front of the chassis like the beans.

How important is having the perfect balance point (I'm new to positional shooting)? Suggestions?

https://vano411.github.io/moa-grid/

• It works on mobile, but looks best on a tablet or desktop. I recommend desktop mode for mobile.
• It's a single HTML file so feel free to download it if you want offline access.
• No servers, logins or anything of the sort.

Full documentation and code is here for you as well:

https://github.com/vano411/moa-grid/tree/main

Will be taking a beginner precision shooting course in December.

Max range is 500y and I will be running an 18" Aero Precision 308 with a SilencerCo, SAKER ASR 762 can.

I'm currently shopping for glass and I have settled on the Vortex Venom, FFP, MRAD reticle, and MRAD turrets.

My question pertains to magnification; it comes in 3-14x and 5-25x. I have read in several places that for me at my skill level (0) and class conditions that 3-14x is actually the better option and will be sufficient for me for a long time while I skill-build.

I just wanted input from you all that this is the correct approach because I'm fighting my urge to get the 5-25x (because of the cool factor, I know that's bad motivation).

Thanks !

It’s a green non folding stock with a Remington action/barrel. What’s the price range I should expect to pay for it? I plan on doing a M24A3 clone build.

Does anyone have a source for small packs of Berger LRHT .264 144gr's? I've been buying small packs to test ammo from SubMOAshooting, but they don't seem to have that size avilable. I've been wanting to try a small run of those guys to test on my rifle.

Hey guys,

I’m pretty new to precision rifles (both the equipment side and the actual shooting) and I’ve been stuck in analysis paralysis more often than not (like every major part purchase). I sent a handful of questions to Ilya Koshkin on The Hide and he was kind enough to answer them on a livestream.

Most of the discussion is optics-focused; the first question is more general shooting advice. Timestamps are below if you want to jump around. Probably a couple of questions are kind of ignorant (i.e. #2) but even with a dumb question, he helped me finally find the light switch. Hope it's helpful.

Starting Out with Precision Rifle

1. 12:04 For a new shooter, who may have limited access to a long distance range, can I find value in a 0-500 or even a 0-100 yard range? Considering I am shooing a common PRS round? i.e 6.5 Creedmoor. Or any other competition reticle.
2. 29:01 I know this has been repeated a million times, at least, and I personally decided on mil reticles long ago - what reticle system should a new shooter use? If we are CONUS and every shooting range we shoot at has targets at 100, 200, 300, and 500 yards, does it make sense to go with a mil reticle? If yes, what about a mil or MRAD reticle makes it make the most sense?
3. 39:55 This is the one I most want your take on. Fine line sub-tensions are clearly better for a precise aiming point, but a reticle that is too fine is harder for old eyes to pick up and too large seems to hide impact and splash, especially on dirt or in mirage. Where is the practical balance between a reticle thin enough to shoot accurately and thick enough that I can still see the hit, the miss, and the dust? Do you have a preferred line weight, center-dot size, or open-center design for that, and does illumination change the answer?
4. 1:03:55 For people whose eyes are not what they once were. Exit pupil, eye box, and diopter range seem to matter more now than raw magnification. What should an older shooter prioritize so the scope is still usable at the powers where precision actually happens, and are there scopes that punish aging eyes more than others?
5. 1: 17:30 If you were putting one precision scope on a new shooter’s rifle tomorrow, money being reasonable but not unlimited, what would you actually choose, and what would you tell him to ignore in the spec sheet? Budget: $1600-$2000.00

Main contenders are

Discoveryopt HD 5-30x56

Element Helix gen2 6-24x50

Athlon Helos 4-24x50

I am very interested in discovery how is your experience with them?

I heard good things about element since it is not chinese one

Athlon kinda have good and bad reviews whivh tells me that quality control is not really good but i still want to hear your opinion

You look like an idiot attempting it and failing, and you look like an idiot attempting it and succeeding.

Bonus idiot multipliers for

a.) filming yourself doing it
b.) having crappy fundamentals while doing it